gstaten24

im not sure if this is the right forum but i was thinking about putting a 421 cheetah cub on my bike with the 4 mil crank and i was wondering if i will be needing bigger carbs for the 421?

well im rebuilding the engine so i just have to make sure i flush the radiator right? i took out the overflow tank.

ok awesome thats what i thought just makin sure!!

i was wondering if i could use prestone or something to that affect in my shee or if i have to use actual atv coolant?

i have toomey t6s on my bike and i have had cpi in frames before and i would like to know if anybody would like to trade with me because i will be building up my engine soon. they are only 2 years old in good condition so i would want to trade straight . the trade will have to be including the silencers.

awesome thanks!!!

i was just wondering because i was thinking of getting the cheetah cubs but i dont want to have to buy a new head as well if i do get them.

that makes complete sense! haha ill definantly be doing that tommorow if i can, i used carb cleaner on that side. could that cause any problems?

yea i thought it was wierd too haha, thanks for that tho ill definantly check all that see if that helps at all.

hi all, so i recently moved to a new location 4500 ft higher in elevation. i changed the jets to what i think they should be and it started first kick. however when i gave it a little gas it made a squeaking noise on the right side it sounded like. then the bike died and i couldnt start it again. it has never made this sound before i moved. i first went down 2 sizes and it wouldnt start at all so i changed to one size down. you think it has to do with the carb/jetting or an internal issue? also i forgot to say it only makes the squeaking noise when i give it gas

hi all, so i recently moved to a new location 4500 ft higher in elevation. i changed the jets to what i think they should be and it started first kick. however when i gave it a little gas it made a squeaking noise on the right side it sounded like. then the bike died and i couldnt start it again. it has never made this sound before i moved. i first went down 2 sizes and it wouldnt start at all so i changed to one size down. you think it has to do with the carb/jetting or an internal issue? also i forgot to say it only makes the squeaking noise when i give it gas.

well i am a mechanic and we dont have anything like that in our shop i already tried lol, even if we did i cant take that kind of stuff home with me but i did the carb cleaner test and thats what it was so i am going to have to replace that seal, thanks for all the help.

thanks for all the replies, i mean i could probably manage pvc pipe and everything but i have no drill and no way to air up the system. i am still gathering all the tools i really need. as far as the front bumper i have an aftermarket bumper so i dont have the stock rubber pieces. ill try the carb cleaner and if that doesnt work then i will make the trip to lubbock (closest city).

yea thats what i thought i dont know what the guy was thinking when he said to take the flywheel off. the only problem is i live like in the middle of nowhere so it could be a problem to get those basic items to make a leakdown tester.

i have had the maier (i think thats how you spell it) and the fullbores and personally i like the full bores way better. not only do they fit better they are thicker and more sturdy. and obviously the stock ones are gonna fit the best.

so i have been having problems with my left cylinder not firing all the time. all the jetting and everything is correct because it ran fine before. i was told if i squirt wd-40 and the shaft the flywheel sits on right next to the motor and it revs up some more it has a bad seal. however i was told to do this with the flywheel off? how does that make sense because i always thought it wouldnt be able to start without the flywheel on there. has anybody done this test and if you have how exactly did you do it, with the flywheel on still?

I checked everything and I actually have 310 main jets. The carbs are synced, the needle is on the 2nd clip down from the top. The air/fuel screw is at 2 turns out. When I moved the needles to the 2nd clip it ran better but once it got hot it started to cut out on the left cylinder right before the very top of the powerband however once I get to the top of the powerband it runs great. What could it possibly be? I also checked the float level and it's good.

I have all the tors removed. I just found out about syncing the carbs so I am going to try that and then I will let check all the float levels and whatnot. Thanks for all the help

So I have an 02 banshee with t6 pipes k&n filters wiseco pistons and its bored just enough to have a new cylinder wall when it blew up. I'm running 300 main jets, 27.5 pilots and needle is 2nd from the top running at sea level. When I am running down a hill or I pull in the clutch and gun it it runs fine. Also when it is cold it runs fine. As soon as I try to climb a hill or there is any load on the engine the left cylinder cuts out. I have replaced the spark plugs (used the b8es and br8es) twice with no luck. I took my coil to the local shop and it came out ok. I changed my cdi box with another one from a different shee that is working just fine, it helped it but it still wasn't fixed. The only other thing I can think of is possibly the stator? Anybody else have any ideas?

Well it ran like a champ before:) I got the needle right in the middle so you think just one click will be good? Thanks for all the help!

when i clicked on the link it said page not found?!

hello, i am moving to Cannon AFB near clovis. i have a 2002 banshee with t6 pipes k/n filters wiseco pistons, and vforce reed valves. i am currently running 300 mains and 27.5 pilots however i am running it at sea level in Oregon. also if there are some good riding areas in NM that would be great to hear about them. thank you for all the help!!