Bruce_Blaine

Got a set of stock carbs (26mm), 34mm mikunis, and a billet chariot intake with built in crossover. stock carbs $100 shipped? mikunis $200 shipped intake $100 shipped pm for pics thanks

Got a 4 mil, dune port, cool head 22 cc domes cut for 4 mil, around 155 PSI in each cylinder, new CDI, new coil, new spark wires and boots, timing set at 0, 34mm mikunis. Anyways on to the problem. When I'm cruising around in lower gears and crack into it it has a like a popping/misifre type sounding deal going on. However, when I get in higher gears (5th and 6th) it stops doing it and runs great. It seems like it's not firing right (maybe?) or, like it's loading up and doesn't clear out until higher gears. There is a thread in jetting with a similar sounding problem, he has a video of his bike running and what it sounds like. Mine sounds like his but not as bad as what his is. Any help would be greatly sppreciated. Thanks.

not trying to steal your thread or anything, but what do you mean aftermarket ignition? I have a dynatek coil and mine seems to have a sound like a pop or a miss, but clears out in higher gear. new cdi so its not that

sorry forgot to mention VF3's.

Hey guys, built a new motor over the winter. It's a Drag Ported 4 mil stock cylinder. As far as mods go, what else could I get? All I can think of are new clutches...perhaps a lockout/override? Or is that not necesary? MODS: 4mil, drag port stock cyl, cool head, 34mm mikunis, timing plate, t5s, cdi box What else can be done without a new set of cylinders and besides different clutches?

Yeah, the pistons you need have an offset.

What pistons are you running?

Looking for a set of Shearer's or CPI's. OOF's please, do not want inframes. Small bore, small flange. Stacked would be nice. Thanks!

Looking for a set of CPI or Shearer out of frame's. Small bore, small flange. Preferably stacked, 2 out of left or right. Let me know if anyone has a set.

Wouldn't you need to get your domes cut for a 4mil?

I payed about $2000 for a 4mil. That included porting as well. Just something to think about!

You can buy 20cc domes and still run pump, but I would suggest 21cc's. That's what I used to run on 93.

Well I know there can be more than one thing wrong with the carb (needle, etc.) But i would try running it with the gas off like i did, if it runs good with the gas off you know then it's something in the carbs and it's not electrical. You may not have the same problem as I did though, but I would give it a try.

Yeah man I thought my left side was misfiring but it was my float sticking. I turned my gas off and ran it and it would stop. I had to get a carb rebuild kit and replace the stuff and it runs great now.

I had the same exact problem. Try turning your gas off (after it's filled the carbs) and clear it out for a second and then run it. I had the same problem and I thought it was electrical but turns out my float was sticking open.

Where are you at in VA? Have you heard of Luray Caverns? I live close to there.

Okay so I'm pretty sure its not an electrical problem. It runs fuckin great when I turn the gas off, but sputters and acts like its loaded up with the gas on. What do I need to do?

I don't know a lot about the electrical stuff I'm still learning. Sorry I wasn't aware that would make my coil check out. I'm gonna check the boots today here in a little bit. Thanks for the help.

I will swap the plug caps today and check that. Thanks guys for all the input, I really hope I can get this figured out.

Okay, I think I'm gonna try to send this coil back and get another one before I try anything else. Thanks for the advice.

I've thought the same thing, it has a warranty on it. But I've also heard it could be a bad stator/CDI box?

Ok guys this problem has got my completely confused. Basically at low RPM if I'm at a dead stop and dump the clutch or just roll off and crack into it the bike spits and sputters and doesn't want to hit the powerband like it should. However, once I get wound up good in higher gears it runs normal, like it should. It acts like it's not firing right when it's under alot of load. Now I put a new set of plugs in it and ran it to WOT, shut it down, and pulled the plugs. My left plug was dark and seemed to look like it was not firing correctly. I swapped the plug wires and my left side was burning clean and right side was dark and look like it was not firing. So the problem followed the spark wire. I JUST PUT A BRAND NEW COIL FROM DYNATEK ON IT WHICH OF COURSE CAME WITH NEW PLUG WIRES, AND I PUT A NEW PAIR OF BOOTS ON THE WIRES. I HAVE ALSO CHECKED THE GAPS ON THE FLYWHEEL WHICH BOTH WERE IN SPEC. Whada fuck? Any ideas?

Bro I have the exact same problem. My right plug is super dark and I can swap plugs and it runs great for like 10 minutes. I don't understand, and mine has a miss at low rpms. WTF.

x2, I had the smallest crack in one of my boots and it caused my left side to run way lean. Put a new boot on it fixed the problem. And this is like the smallest crack in the history of small carb boot cracks. Just goes to show that little of an air leak will cause a huge difference.

Damn, I read the title and thought this was gonna be something simple, but it's out of my grasp.