Wheatchex

Start your selling price above what you really want to get out of it and then you have room to negotiate. Get your bike clean, shining and sparkley as this will help you get a better price. Ultimately you will get out of your bike what someone is willing to pay for it. As far as getting your next bike, either would be a fine choice. Wheatchex

I'm chiming in here, while I usually don't add much to these discussions here is my 2 cents: Can't we all get along? I guess I don't see all that much in the way of moderation going on and from what I've read the moderators are now and have in the past been pretty much hands off. While there are some threads I don't like, or are posted in multiuple places, I just ignore them and don't waste my time worrying about them. Life's too short to get worked up about this. I think Lee has done a great job with this site, allowing the free flow of information and maintaining it to a higher standard than most forums. Wheatchex

To answer your questions: 1 What is a "stroke"? Stroke is one pass of the piston in the cylinder, either from top to botom or from bottom to top. 2. What is the difference between 2 stroke and 4 stroke? 2 stroke means there are two strokes in the intake, compression , combustion, and exhaust cycle. 4 stoke means there are four distinct strokes, intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. For a better explaination of how engines work see these links: 2 stroke and 4 stroke 3. What is the difference between banshee and raptor? the main difference is this: Banshee 350cc twin cylinder two stroke, Raptor 660cc four stroke. Yamaha Sport ATV's read the specs on each and you will know the difference. Wheatchex

First off I am by no means an expert but since this topic has come up previously, here is my take on the basics of what a beginner needs: 1. The Quad, buy used or new both have their pro's and con's. Ask people what they ride and for their reccomendations. Ask the dealer. After you get it take the safety course which is usually free if you buy a new quad from the dealer. 2. A helmet. Buy the best you can afford. Nuf said. 3. Gloves. 4. Sturdy Boots. Ideally you would want true cycle boots, but for just starting off good stiff boots will work, but you will want to invest later into a good pair of riding boots. 5. Repair manual for the quad. 6. Basic tools, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. Add to your set as needed. Try not to skimp on tools as they will last a lifetime for good ones. 7. Gas can to haul extra fuel. 8. This is probably the most important and expensive. If you don't live near a riding area, you will need a vehicle(truck to haul your bike in the bed) or car/truck/van and trailer to get your bike to the riding area. Otherwise having a quad and no way to get it to the riding spot, makes the quad worthless. 9. Tiedowns to hold the bike on the transporting vehicle/trailer. 10. Insurance on the bike. Optional but strongly reccomended. These are the basics. Add the mods and clothes and other protective gear as you can afford them although I personally would reccomend the protective gear before the mods. If any one has anything else to add please do, but remember this is for the complete newcomer to the sport. Wheatchex

Just wanted to thank to those who served and those who are serving. And for those who gave the ultimate sacrifice, you will not be forgotten. Wheatchex

B370 hit it pretty much on the head. In a manual transmission, the "gears" are actually meshed all the time. What you do is slide a collar which is splined to the output shaft along the output shaft to engage the specific gear. The collars have dogs or teeth that engage with the gear. Undercutting is what is done to the dogs and the mating part of the gear to help keep them locked together. If they are under cut to much they can lock and cause poor shifting and or break off. See this link at how stuff works for a better description of how manual transmissions work: Manual transmissions Wheatchex

This is what I would do: 1. Shop manual: important stuff in here and very usefull. 2. Filter adapter plate and filter: The stock plate doesn't seal well and you don't want to ruin your engine because of the filter plate. Filter will increase air flow and power. Jet accordingly. 3. Tether kill switch 4. Then anything else you want and can afford. Definitely 1 and 2, 3 is optional but reccomended. Wheatchex

Hi, What the bike is telling you is that, when it's hot and you need to choke it, it is not getting enough fuel and too much air. I would suspect that when it's cold out it is really hard to start. I would suggest that you go up a pilot size to 27.5 or 30. One other thing before you start jetting is to make sure the slides are in properly as that can cause problems as well. The cut away portion of the slide should be towards the rear. Also adjust your air screws located on the side of the carb to 2 turns out from snug. Then jet from there. Your mains might be slightly on the small side and you may want to go up a size or two. Wheatchex

Best place to understand how carbs work: carb theory 101 Wheatchex

Screamin, I believe we are saying the same thing it's all in how you define advance and retard. My thoughts are advance means the spark occurs earlier in the crank rotation and retard means later in the crank rotation. As the engine speeds up, the ignition advances the spark relative to the piston travel, ie the piston is lower when the spark occurs at high rpms vs higher at low rpms. Wheatchex

Well here is my explaination of advancing and retarding timing: For proper ignition and power develelopment the timing of the spark has to occur so that the pressure built up in the cylinder by the burning fuel/air mix is optimized as well as complete combustion of the fuel/air mix. Since the fuel and air mix burn at a relatively constant rate, you must advance the timing of the spark as the engine rpm's increase. In otherwords as the piston speeds up, the spark needs to occur sooner to get the fuel and air to burn completely otherwise you won't make power. The banshee igniton has a built in advance curve that adjusts automatically the amount of advance for a given RPM. What you do by using a degree key or adjustable timing plate is change the advance curve by X degrees over the entire RPM range. 4 degrees seems to be the the best for general usage while drag racers typically will use 7. Too much advance can lead to knocking and too little will result in poor performance. Wheatchex

The wife sort of likes it. But since she doesn't have a quad, she doesn't like it when I go out and play. I'm going to have to get her a quad one of these days. :roll: Wheatchex

FastthnU: New does not necessarily equal faster. There have been periods of time in the automotive world where performance has decreased for newer models. Take the mid seventies for example, performance dropped substatially when the emissions regs were put in place. But once the automakers found ways to meet the emissions standards the performance did increase. Cars that start out headed in a sporty direction can become blvd cruisers because of their popularity. Thunderbirds have evolved through this and headed back towards their roots. There are plenty of examples out there. So a blanket statement that newer equals faster is not always true. Rollin: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Wheatchex

The lightning looks like a current gen mustang as a truck. Wheatchex

Hotwheels! Need I say more. Wheatchex

I prefer the twist! Wheatchex