Wheatchex

Regardless of how you all feel, you must register to vote if you are of age and vote your conscience. If not you have no reason to bitch if your "chosen" candidate doesn't make it to the white house. Personally I feel this has to be one of the worst campaigns on both sides for mud slinging. Unfortunately for Bush people only remember what has happened during his tenure and not taken a look back at what may have precipitated events occuring now. Some things yes may be directly attributable to him, but a lot of people blame him for every thing that has happened. One person cannot make these things happen alone. Yes he does have a great power of influence but unless people agree then nothing will happen. It doesn't matter who is in office, Rep or Dem, people will blame the current president for their personal woes even though he may have no direct influence on it at all. We as americans have become lazy and expect the government to give us handouts and blame everyone else for our troubles. We need to reverse this and all take responsibility for our own personal situation and then do something to make our own lives better. Stop expecting someone else or the government to take responsibility for our situation and expect a free handout to fix it. Wheatchex

rc car engine tuning Try this link to hopefully help you on your way. Wheatchex

First off it sounds like your carb mixture screw is not adjusted properly. Second when you blow into the exhaust tap tube you are pressurizing the fuel tank and forcing fuel into the carb, causing it to run. I would go to the manual that came with your engine and reset all the screws and adjustments to the factory settings. Then go from there and run the engine through the reccomended break in procedure. After that then start adjusting the carb but write your settings down as you make changes and record what it does. If you do this you will have a baseline as to how your engine responds to various changes. It is also much better to make one change at a time than two or more because you can tell exactly if the change is good or bad rather than trying to guess which change gave the desired effect if you change more than one thing. This is very similar to the banshee when adjusting it's carbs. Wheatchex

I've been running Pro2 (not the SX) at 40:1 for 5+ years now and so far I've not had any problems. Knock on wood. I don't think I'd go much beyond 40:1 though for any oil as it is the lifes blood of your engine. Wheatchex

New job working in the same company(transfered to a better group). More work and more fun but less stress. Still an engineer though. Wheatchex

Sorry to miss your B'day. Anyway Heres a Belated Happy B'day to ya! Wheatchex

Thank you all for the birthday greetings! I appreciate it alot. As far as over the hill goes, I don't remember any hill. Drank mucho Beer on my B'day too! I've been busy with a new job so I haven't had much time to read and answer questions. But I still visit if only to read a few things. Wheatchex

This is what I'd do. It ran fine before the switch to the Trinity carb. Remove the trinity carb and put the originals back on with the same adjustments and jets as when it ran. Attempt to start it. If it starts then you know that the trinity carb setup is the culpret. Also, if you can pull start the bike but not kick start it, your topend has to be rebuilt. It's probably due since it is an 87 and if you are not the orignal owner you won't know if it has had the top end redone ever and if it hasn't it's definitely due because of it's age. All the advice that has been given is appropriate and it is up to you to decide to listen or ignore it. It would be a shame to see the bike get parted out, but then that is up to you to decide. Wheatchex FYI for everyone: Buying a used bike for less money upfront may not always be the best investment in the long run as you will most likely end up spending more to fix things than you would have if you had ponied up bought a newer/less abused bike in the first place.

I've been gone for a while and now I come back to this. Apparently I missed a lot of stuff. Anyway, I've been watching and posting for quite a while from almost the begining of the HQ. I've seen a lot and posted a lot. There have been times when I've gotten discouraged with answering the same questions and times when I've tried answering all the questions I could. But the thing I've tried to do in all my postings is be aware that my reputation is only as good as my comments/answers. I have in the past posted things that, looking back on now, were not up to my personal standards and am not happy with them. I've seen the good and the bad and the ugly side of message boards and every one goes through these states as the popularity increases and then wanes. If everyone was to look upon the way they come across on forums such as these then maybe there would be less ugliness and more camaraderie. I have learned a great deal and hopefully helped a few in the process. We have been very fortunate that Lee has provided us with the ability to exchange information on the banshee and allowed us a wide latitude in our ramblings. For this I am greatful for what Lee has created and maintained over the years. I do not know what is involved in creating or maintaining a website such as this, however I suspect it consumes a large amount of time and effort on Lee's part. I commend Lee for his love of the site and the banshee and would hate to see the information that is contained within to be lost. On the otherhand I would not blame Lee at all if he would decide to close up the HQ because his priorities in life have changed and evolved. It's been great ride Lee! Good luck in your future endevors. Wheatchex

A long zip tie strapped to the drive shaft will cause a large amount of noise. Eventually the long end will break off and the noise will magically disappear. Also a little fertilizer can be used to spell things and will cause the grass to remain green for quite a while. I do like the registration sticker idea as well. Just leave no fingerprints. Wheatchex

I'll be there that week. Hopefully riding most of it at Riverview Recreation Area in Waterloo, Iowa. Will ride with anyone while I'm there as I am riding as much as possible. Mostly to keep out of trouble with the In-laws and Out-laws. Wheatchex

It looks like an SAE Baja car. Wheatchex

I assume you are familar with wayne nat'l forrest as a riding area. You can also look up on the ohio dnr website for state atv areas. Wellsville is a popular spot. AS you can see these are mostly in the eastern half of the state. There are quite a few tracks out in the eastern side as well. Try Pitracer for track locations and schedules here in the eastern half of the state. Wheatchex Akron/Canton Ohio

Well here is the rest of the story. As it turns out, there will be layoffs here in the the next few weeks. So in order to protect others jobs, I was selected to interview with a different department. If I got the job, it would mean one less person they would have to lay off in my group. So in effect I save two jobs, my own and someone elses. On Friday morn I found out I got the job and accepted it ASAP. So I still am employed, just in another department. So the gray cloud did have a silver lining as were. Wheatchex

I pressed my bearings in when I changed them. Fortunately I had access to a press. Had to use the press to get the axle out as well. Use a drift or flat punch to tap the bearing races out of the carrier. Using a rubber mallet and a block of wood will work too, just be carefull not to cock the bearing in the carrier when installing it. Wheatchex.

Dex why didn't you send him a PM or an E-mail explaining this person to person instead of trying to save face by coming here and explaining in a public forum???? You reap what you sow. Wheatchex

Well the day started off ok but then it got progressively worse. First off after barely being awake and getting dressed, I put my shirt on inside out and went to work. THe funny thing is I didn't realize it till lunch and no one told me either. After lunch the boss gives me my quarterly review which is fo the most part ok but a couple of things needed improvement, nothing big. Next after signing the review and returning it the boss calls me in and tells me he set up a job interview for me. I mean usually you try not to let your boss know you are looking for a job. WTF? So I am off this afternoon on an interview. Been with this company for 11 1/2 years. Maybe time to for me to leave permanently. Will know more after a few weeks if I need to fix up my resume. Sorry for venting but if anyone knows of anything in the NE Ohio area let me know. Wheatchex

I'm just a novice now. Oh well, I guess I'll have to let Stan and Blue2 make sure I give correct responses. BTW nice AVATAR BigWill Wheatchex

You have to use heat to get the loctite that yamaha used to liquify. There is no other way around not using heat regardless of what the clymer manual says. the propane torch will work but it will take longer. MAP gas torch will be faster, but to get it hot an Accetylene torch will work fastest, but be carefull you don't take the temper out of the nut by heating it too much. Use a big wrench with a long handle to get more leverage on them. Make sure the wrench fits snugly, a cresent wrench is asking for trouble and you will end up rounding the corners of the nuts. Once you get them off, use blue loctite to hold them on when you install them. Also tighten the nuts using Yamaha's tightening procedure if you use the stock nuts. Wheatchex

Not to start a copyright discussion, but I wonder what some of the people who have copywrited their material would think if they found out it was being sold by someone else. Wheatchex

I'm going to throw this out: There is a rev limiter but it is designed to keep the operator(you) from burning up the parking brake/rear brake pads. It only functions when the parking brake is on. It will limit the RPMS to about 3K or less. Otherwise there is no rev limiters other than the factory pipes. The TORS function as a Rev limiter of sorts in that if one or both of the throttle slides stick and you release the thumb throttle, the engine will shut off. The stock CDI box does have the advance curve built into it electronically and it can not be adjusted there but can be fooled by using a degree key or adjustable timing plate which shift the timing curve over the entire RPM range. Wheatchex

Good grief, you'd think that the fly wheel is this miracle part that creates horsepower and torque. Maybe someone should start selling a Boostwheel(ie similar to a Boostbottle). All a flywheel does is help the engine rotate through the dead spots and through the compression stroke by inertia. This is very basic physics, an object in motion tends to stay in motion unless acted on by an outside force. And the converse an object at rest stays at rest unless acted by an outside force. A heavier flywheel will help keep the bike running. It will accelerate and decelerate slower, but the potential energy stored will be higher for a given RPM. A lighter flywheel will accelerate and decelerate faster but will have a lower potential energy for a given RPM. Thats pretty much it. Here is the link to the flywheel explaination from the Professor: Flywheel Wheatchex

421: Buying the machines is only part of the set up and usually the least costly. Tooling is where you are going to need lots of money although you could start out with the bare minimums but you will find that you will need specialized bits, clamps, vises, dividing plates, collets, drills, measuring tools, grinding tools, etc. to become efficient with your time if you are starting up a shop. It's not that you can't do these things, it's just be prepared to be spending a large amount of money. Stan is a great person to ask questions as he's gone through and going through the same things as you. I'd suggest CNC machines if you are going to spend the money. You can do a lot of things with CNC that you can't manually. Wheatchex

Lincster: Anyone can torque the nuts properly with the right tools. You need a torque wrench that exceeds 200 ft-lbs and has a 1/2" drive. You will also need Motion Pro's yamaha axle nut wrenches p/n 08-0155 (suggested retail $35.90) and a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive. Use the blue Loctite (242) or equivalent. I don't have the exact numbers for the torques right now, but if I can remember correctly here is the procedure: First apply a little loctite to the threads of the axle. It doesn't take much. Tighten the inside nut up against the carrier/bearing to 40 ft-lbs. Now holding the inside nut tighten the outer nut against the inside nut to 140 ft-lbs. Next take a marker or pencil place a line across a convenient location on both nuts. Now holding the outer nut tighten the inner nut against the outer nut to 170 ft-lbs. You are backing the inner nut away from the bearing. Now measure the distance between the marks on the nuts. It should be approximately 3mm. If it is more than 3mm start the procedure over. If less tighten the inner nut against the outer nut so that you get 3mm. I'll check the specs on the tightening torques when I get home and edit them as needed. Save your money and get the Motion Pro wrenches as the Yamaha wrench is expensive and you really need two to work properly. Wheatchex Edited 02-07-04 with correct tightening torques.

If you use the procedure given in the Clymer or factory shop manual to tighten the nuts and use the medium loctite 242 (Blue I think) the nuts will not back off. Given that the appropriate torques are used along with the thread locker, you shouldn't have any problems. I cann't believe that electrical tape will hold the nuts in place when it takes about 180 ft-lbs of torque to tighten the nuts together. What may be happening with the tape is that the nuts back off enough to get the tape into the threads and then the nuts slow their rotation. I for one would not and will not rely on electrical tape to hold the axle on my bike. Wheatchex