AdrenalineJunky

Looks like i'll have to buy me a new tool then lol. I am hoping that I can get a hold of my dads sandblaster. The right rod has a little bit of side to side but the left rod you can slide back and forth quite a bit more.

I got the cases split apart. Damn some of these screws are ridiculous. I can't get the shift star screws out. About broke my wrist and elbow and don't wanna strip them. Any tips? Is it alright to use water and degreaser to clean the inside of the crankcase as I don't have a parts washer or solvent. And finally I noticed that the left rod has a good bit of movement. It has a good bit of room to slide from side to side? Is this not a good thing? I appreciate all the input.

My dad has a small sand blaster. I'm assuming that would do the trick just fine.

I am going to be painting my frame and several parts with spray cans. What is the best prep that can achieve best results? Do I need to prime it before painting? There is some rust spots and flaking paint so I know I will scuff it up there and prime it but didn't know if I should prime over the factory paint before painting? Thought about seeing if I could use the old man's sand blaster? Would it be worth it? Do you guys clear it afterwards? I am probably going to use some Rustoleum Metallic paint.

I think I got a can of that and I only used it like once. I'll try that.

Still have flywheel puller? Shipped to 45640 Jackson,OH?

Thx. guys appreciate it. Will give it a try.

Yeah I was just going to do a topend job on it but I keep coming across stuff that makes me wonder about things. I do not know the history of it but it has several mods done to it. Some i'm not sure as if they are right. 18cc domes and +8 timing for instance. As I pulled it apart I just kept going lol..... gonna paint the frame and go through the whole bike replacing bearings seals as needed. Yah I have OCD somewhat. I just finished doing alot of reading of my Clymer manual about the crankshaft and splitting cases. Didn't see anything that scared me. I'm pretty handy but not a full blown mechanic. I figure i'll split it apart and clean it up real good and do the checks that need to be done. Really only thing I need is a dial indicator to check runout and endplay. I'll replace the seals and if bearings seem fine, leave them be. Seems the main thing is having a clean area and keeping everything in order and labeled for a first timer. Any tips would be appreciated!!!

Someone else will verify but I believe the stock a arm ball joints are not replacable/servicable.

Good to know. Thx I appreciate it. I need to take a pic of my cylinders because it looks like they may have been ported, dunno!

Didn't seem normal. Didn't know if it was because they had gotten too hot or something.

Stripped the shee down to bare frame. I have some T5's that need cleaned up. They have some surface rust and are kinda black and nasty in some places especially on the pipe from the header to the silencer. What do you guys use to get all that stuff up? Is the finish chrome?

Just out of curiosity, around how much does it cost to get a frame PC'd and for the small parts? OH YEAH............THAT COLOR IS SICK!!!

When taking the rings out the top ring came out easily but the bottom ring on both cylinders didn't move freely and was kinda stuck a little bit? Is that normal?

Got any pics after you split the cases?

Yep got it out, piece of cake. The screws were already stripped and they decided to put them back in lol. Had to use pliers to get the screws out. BUT I WONT be putting them back in like a dumbass. Now I have a question/concern. All I need is rings but...............I have never split any cases before or did any bottom end work and was wondering if I should split them and replace/check anything as far as seals? Anyway to know without splitting them?

Why was previous owner running 18cc domes and +8 timing?

Do I need to remove any other stuff off the motor to get it out as far as weight or room and being able to lift it out? Looks like taking it out left side is easiest?

Appreciate it!

Yep that's what I needed. O.K. I just have to find the connections covered in tape. Thx. Mike

Do I have to remove the flywheel and stator or is there a plug in where all the wiring connects after it leaves the stator. Mine is covered in electrical tape so I can't see. Figured be easier to ask. Only thing from keeping me from getting motor out is the wires going through grommet to stator.

Yah well it's not as easy troubleshooting other peoples mistakes lol. I find stuff everyday that has been done to the bike. Pulled it apart last night to find 18cc domes and +8 timing. That was a shocker. Glad it is low on compression cuz I had no idea and the guy I got it from had no clue about it as he got it in on a trade and I have been running 93 octane.

WOW keeps getting better and better. I'm pulling the motor apart and forgot about having to disconnect the stator? I pull the cover and I see an adjustable timing plate. I'm like sweet. I look at the timing and according where the mark you go by at the split between the cases? Well if that's it then it's +8. If it's the case mark above that it's +11. WTF was someone trying to do? God i'm glad I tore this thing apart. Dumb question though. Do I need to pull the flywheel and such to disconnect the stator to remove the engine? If so that sucks cuz it's the last thing I have to do, thought I was gonna get to pull it out. I don't have a flywheel puller.

Makes sense. Well I decided i'm gonna pull the motor and paint the frame and clean it up real good. Gonna take my time since it'll be my first Banshee project. Gonna get all the parts I need as I go and can afford at the moment. Will try to get some pics as I go to document.