t3h hott!

willing to part with the headlights, ign coil, cdi and wiring harness?

are the headlights still available also? I cant use that air box with stock carb boots?

seriously?!

im looking for a set (pref. matching) of completely stock plastics, i would preffer a set in white or blue but im willing to take a look at black... no yellow or red unless is a full matching set and super clean... absolutley no lakers. im in fl, 33023 if u can get a price with shipping that would be great! pm me.... if anyone has just the front plastic with fenders im willing to take them also...

x2 front suspension and pegs?

if that falls thru, im in broward and im down to meet u up half way.

i think it's immokalee, or something close to that... i havent been upthere in a while but i dont remember if they allow quads there... my friend always takes dirtbikes. i hate to break it to u and maybe im going to make it sound worse than it really is but... THERES AINT SHIT OUT HERE! there arent any dunes, no trails and for the most parts floridians arent very quad friendly people... atleast not down here in s. florida, i've heard further up north its alot better, so maybe u luck out and where your parents moved is far up enough. the only place we had to legally ride down here was called the holylands and even thats been closed out to sport quads... now im left to sneak in a ride here and there out by the edge of the everglades... and even at that in the middle of nowhere out there, i still have people come bother us for w/e reason! i've been dying to find a spot where we can go camping and take the bikes that isnt 3hrs away... I HAVE THE GREAT BIG EVERGLADES IN MY BACK YARD AND I CANT EVEN RIDE THERE..

yooo wut up florida, standup! wuts going on in this side of the forum ya boys aint riding no more?

yo i need some tires, u know anyone with rear tires for 10" rims? when u guys going out again? broward here btw... @brugal- where u from?

no way! do u have another bike? u giving up on riding trails and shit?

carb slides are in the correct way... i was just double checking what u guys thought would be good jetting for my situation... i already ordered 310 mains, 27.5 pilots the rest is just tuning the air screw and the needle. hopefully i'll get it right and if not, theres always the g'd old HQ! thanks guys!

Smokin- the crank seal is a possibility, it might just be starting to go althought everyone I've spoken to has told me that when the seal usually goes bad u can really tell cus it almost always smoke a lot from the start... Radar- u are also correct buddy, the guy that I mentioned earlier that works on 2 stroke actually has the guage that plugs up to the intake boots and tells u if the carbs are synced, were going to do it hopefully today or tomorrow... And the oil in the packing can be a possibility also cus I made sure I used enough oil to lube up the rotating assembly, only thing is I'm kinda afraid to ride it with out knowing exactly where the jetting is... Fatbanshee- that's exactly my guess, 310 main, 27.5 pilots, needle clip 1 leaner and hopefully air screw 1.5~ I just wanted to make sure... I kinda wanna be the guy that tunes around my area so I've been reading the tuning threads a lot trying to jam pack my self with knowledge.

sup guys??! finally got my shee running after a couple of long months and a top end rebuild she finally purrs... oh well actually she fucking roars! so heres what i ended up with, got rid of the lectrons, went with stock carbs w/ tors elimnator and idle screws, k&n cone filter W/ modified airbox lid... got my self another pro design cool head, with 20cc domes... and bored the jugs to 65mm with a wsm top end kit w/ cometic gasket kit... cleaned up the porting, now i'm at a light trail port... still have my vf3 reeds and BOOST BOTTLE! i'm running t5 pipes and silencers and a mix of about 40:1 with 93 oct and benoil premix oil. so a little about initial start up, we got the bike together, i went and got a bottle of klotz benoil and threw some gas in it. bike started with in the first 2 kicks i let run idle a bit and then took it down the block slowly. got it back and retorqued all the head bolts and the jugs to 25lbs. then took it out again and let it open up a little bit at a time, this time i let it get warm enough to the point i could feel the pipes on my leg hairs. got it back in and took out the plugs and they where soaked and black, but i'm guessing thats from the oil we used to lube all the parts for initial start up. bike ran ok, i can feel its a little rough on the bottom and for 1 reason or another my right side pipe smokes a little more than my left, its a blue smoke and its just enough were u can see it at about 1/2 throttle... not a fumigating smoke, just enough so u noe its there. i took the bike to a buddy of mines that works on dirtbikes, he doesnt really mess with banshees but he works on 2 and 4 stroke mx bikes so he has some knowledge of what he's doing... he told me the bike is running rich but everything sound good just need to mess with the needle clip and pilot. i'm running cool head w/ 20cc domes, vf3 reeds, stock carbs with 320 mains, and 25 pilots... needle clip in stock position and a/s 2.5 out, elev. is basically sea level (miami, fl) avg. temp is about 75* F and i'm running 40:1 premix with 93 oct gas. wut do u guys recommend?

yup there is a recess, the front bearings will only go out thru the front, and the rear thru the rear, the spacer also goes out thru the rear... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126206

this is wat u start off with, a hub full of bad bearings! this is the front of the hub... this is the rear of the hub obviously where the rear seal and bearing will be... to pry the rear seal off u need a pretty big screw driver, makes it easier anyways... just put the tip under the seal and push down on the other side so the tip pops the seal up then just work around it... if its stuck solid which is a rare case let it sit with some type of lubricant or pb blaster for a few. this is the front seal and insde is the front spacer, this pushes against the washer( **important u dont want to loose this!**) this is how the front seal and front spacer should look like.... after u remove the rear seal, u can get a socket that fits inside the rear bearing but big enough so it pushes on the front bearing with an extension u can now hammer the front bearing out... you should end up with this, thats the front bearing and the front seal next to it. once u have the front bearings out u can now take out the rear bearings, u need a socket a little bigger than the previous 1 u used for the front, this time ur going in from the front, and hammering the back bearing out. install is reverse of removal, instead of hammering out ur going to hammer it back in with the back side of the socket so u dont damage the bearing seal. as far as parts, i tried searching locally but the bearings and seals are hard to find and are pretty expensive, i tried napa and the bearings where almost 15 bucks each or something like that... so i just ended up buying a kit from ebay, i forget the eaxct name but i think boss bearing sells it... good luck! if u guys have any questions or need more pic of anything let me noe, i have more pics. this is all it would let me upload.... *btw: u guys are doing this at your own risk, i'm not liable for any of your mistakes, if anyone feels that something is wrong or i did something wrong please let me noe so i can correct it. my bike turned out fine this way and rolls on its now! feels like brand new!

wow, i just replaced mines and took tons of piks for this same reason! i was gonna make a how-to hub bearing replacement... i didnt have a press either so i used 2 deep black impact 1/2" drive sockets and just hammered then out, came out pretty good actually... take a socket small enough to go thru the rear(next to the spindle) bearing and big enough to push the front bearing out(closest to the wheel), once u have that bearing out, theres a spacer in between the rear and the front bearings, u can try and take out the spacer by using a socket from the front, or u can simply use a socket small enough to fit inside the spacer, but big enough to fit aroung the rear bearing and tap it with the hammer, it should come out.

any updates? i'm in the market for braided lines and had my eye on these people but cant find anything about them on here... any piks?

hey still have paddles? whats the cheapest set u have and shipped to 33023?

Hey drew, I spoke to tim, and the price isn't too bad.... Only thing that's keeping me from getting a sub frame from him is that I want a square rear not the pointy 1 that he makes... I really like the 1 that's on buddys bike on the previous posts... What is that 1?

how much for a stock carb set up complete with airbox and throttle cable?

if the subframe is still available, piks please!

hey that shit is sick! my subframe is bent, but i've never seen 1 of these! does anyone noe if they make them so u can bolt on a stock wheelie bar, and how much we looking at for the one on buddy's bike?

did u mount ur brake lines yet?? thats the bracket that holds the T fitting on stock brake lines, maybe if u have braided lines they dont use this bracket...