So Cal Suspension

HID bulbs actually are cooler to the touch, than Halogen. The bulbs, however, are much longer than halogen bulbs, which is probably why it burnt a hole in his lense. The stock banshee housing is so deep, that there are no clearance issues with the HID kits from Xentec.

How cute.

There are currently no LED replacement bulbs on the market that will be anywhere near bright enough to be usable. There are a couple members on here who have done HID conversions, for VERY cheap, and so far have had great luck with them. HID's watt for watt are brighter than LEDs, and you can keep your stock light housings. Send a PM to "jasons", and see if he can get you a parts list of everything he used. I know his HID kits were the h6m Xentec kits, available on ebay for about 35 bucks shipped. You have to do a DC conversion (piece of cake), and run a battery. (about 10-15 bucks from ebay). This is a project that can be done an evening or two. The tail light bulb is part number 194. You can find LED replacements at just about any auto parts store, and I think even Walmart sells them.

Are you talking about a tail light? or head lights? If it's a tail light, what year? they changed in 02 or 03 I believe, to an integrated brake/tail light.

Every race vehicle I've built for the last 8 years, wouldn't even consider using ball joints. The Teflon heims are lined inside with a fiberglass-like fabric, coated in teflon. The PTFE ones are an injection molded liner. The clearances are so tight on either that if you managed to destroy one of them on a banshee, you would be the first one I've ever heard of. We use them on every long travel sand car we build, and every race vehicle. There's a reason these $1m+ cars run heims. Just remember they need to be the FK brand TEFLON, or PTFE... the Teflon ones are the cream of the crop, PTFE is a close second.

Ok, so I've got this little 4x8 trailer that I want to get out of my garage. The gas can is not included. Currently registered, and I've got the title. I've got too many trailers, and need more room in my garage. 400 bucks, obviously not going to ship. I'm in Temecula, CA.

This took me a little while to do. I hope you appreciate it.

Might not be a good idea, bud. I get gassy at night.

Yeah, snops was the first I've seen on a banshee...

Unfortunately Digital Camo isn't that original either. There's even digital sticker kits available for most ATV's... Here's one for an LTR450. I've seen golf carts done in the digital camo, even trucks. TONS of 4x4 ATV's, Rhino's, RZR's... you name it, it's been wrapped in camo. LOL. I think the unicorn theme might be original, though.

So what's the second reason?

Seriously? What are you saying? 97 yellow and red what? Plastics? Stickers? Who is doing your powder coating? Are you doing it yourself? LOL. I'm laying in bed sick too, but I still can move my finger to the comma, and the period keys.

What? Your lack of punctuation makes almost every one of your posts extremely difficult to understand. You are going to buy a sticker kit? or you are going to buy a powdercoating kit, and powdercoat your frame yourself?

Do you always start it cold, and immediately rev it to the moon? Make sure you take note of the motor builders on this site, as I think you'll be needing them soon. Your plastics look stock in the video... Maybe take some better pictures of them. I'm having trouble deciphering exactly what you're asking.

Personally, I think advertising for another company on your banshee without any type of compensation is stupid. The rockstar and monster themes have been so over done, they are almost becoming the norm. Go with something unique, design your own color scheme.

LOL, Zilla. Your attempt at being tough failed miserably... I would never ship anything out, that I wouldn't be proud to run on my own bike. Even though some people go with a gay color scheme...

As far as I know, there were two different versions of the YFZ front shocks. One was a red-springed "SE" shock, but from what I remember, they are the exact same shock, just different spring lengths. I could be wrong, but I believe the red springs were a touch longer than any of the other ones. And the SE ones are also coated in some ridiculous ceramic coating that is next to impossible to strip. The rear shock won't bolt up for two reasons. 1) It's quite a bit longer than the stock banshee rear. 2) The lower mount is the "fork type", which won't directly bolt up to the stock linkage of a banshee. I have, however, seen some people run a steel sleeve inside that fork, to use on a banshee, but I don't believe it was a YFZ shock.

Kinect is pretty sweet, but you gotta pay to play. I'm a fan of PS3 personally, but have lots of friends who prefer xbox. I use the blu-ray all the time, and I appreciate that it's free to play online... just my two cents...

I'll try to explain this without getting too technical. LOL. In general, reservoirs on shocks serve two purposes. One: they allow added cooling of the shock oil. Two: They have either an IFP (Internal floating piston), or a nitrogen bladder that keeps the nitrogen, and oil separate. The fact of the matter is, ATV shocks don't displace enough oil, or generate enough heat for 99% of riders, to utilize the "cooling" effect of reservoirs. Keeping the oil/nitrogen separate is crucial for CONSISTENT dampening. Both rebound, and compression. Keeping the nitrogen separate from the oil prevents foaming, and premature break down of the oil. Non reservoir shocks blend the oil and nitrogen together, and after a while of riding, the oil will be all foamy, and that's where the term "fading" comes from. The reason the coils look compressed on the top of the shock, is because it is a progressive spring. Meaning there are two different spring rates, in one spring... if that make sense. The tighter coils compress easier than the rest of the spring, acting almost like a dual rate shock (But not quite). As mentioned before, YFZ shocks also have compression and rebound adjustment, which is a huge plus. They do not work well on stock arms, but there are a few manufacturers out there who make arms that are designed to be used with these shocks. YFZ shocks are also completely rebuildable, and revalveable, and can be purchased for a fraction of the price of aftermarket shocks, with similar compression/rebound adjustments. These shocks will often be referred to as "3 way adjustable". Compression, rebound, and preload. Obviously these shocks are not going to out perform quality aftermarket shocks, but overall, they are a good option if you're on a budget, and run them with arms DESIGNED for those shocks. Knowmesayin?

Thanks Michael. As I told you, I understand shit happens, and we all get through it eventually. I'm glad you're happy with your setup, and hope to see you and your crew out at Glamis. I appreciate the feedback and look forward to doing business with you again. If you need anything, don't hesitate to give me a shout.

The heims that come with the FF arms, are the cheapo heims. They are metal on metal, and do tend to squeak after some time. When they get worn out, replace them with Chromoly FK brand TEFLON, or PTFE heims. They will outlast your banshee, and make no noise.

I'll be there when you break some shocks!

I've always used a 15" crescent wrench...