cobrabc1993

I was being serious...........................................Its not rocket science that banshees part out for more than they are worth

Im out..... You had these priced with rims originally, and now your reducing the price,and saying, without rims......... this is sounding shady, and you still havent posted or sent pics......................................

x2... Your jetting is way too much for the mods you have.... And that will kill it in a heartbeat...... You answered your own question by showing your before jetting and after jetting and the performance difference..... THe V-force dont require more jetting, and putting tors delete on dont require more jetting...... and make sure you have your needles on the middle clip........ OR where they were on your original carbs........ I would say 280 to 300 on your mains....... (Just an fyi, when i had my bike dynoed, being one step to rich,cost me 3.2hp) So you can imagine, what bein 2or3sizes to big on jets would do.......

x2 on the .030".....................

Also, are they on wheels? and what shape and brand of wheels??????

Get me a pic, very interested.... and did you buy them new or used? and i need an exact size///// 22x10x8 or 22x11x8 or what exactly are they....... Are they triple buffed or buffed at all??? thx

Pics please, and how many seasons on them?? send pics to [email protected]

My limited edition 2003 banshee has very low hours, and bone stock, it kicked out 114 115psi on the compression test. I just installed a noss head and the crosshatches were still on both cylinders, and looked excellent.... So depending on your elevation, i would say your not to bad on your compression, if your engine is all original...... Thats good you found the problem....... If i had extended warranty, like you, and had a real issue, I would TOTALLY put it as stock as possible, and haul that machine to the dealer...... The WORST they can do , is tell you no, and then your not out anything..... But maybe, just maybe, they will take care of it , or pay the labor and you buy the parts......It really depends on the dealership....We have dealerships who wont work on our chipped diesel trucks, but some, just look the other way, and try to help you out as much as they can.... They know you had a chip and exhaust, but they took on the vehicle, and did the necessary repairs...... It really just depends on the dealer, and trying to establish a decent relationship with that dealership........... Just my two cents.........................

Dam Dam...... That looks serious!! Were you at high rpm's when that let go?? That looks like that could have ripped some cases to shreds!!!

Need more info... Does this bike do this cold or hot or both...? How long has the needle been on the 4th clip?? Reason asking, I had a banshee last year, that ran hard for 20minutes, then would crap out, and then would do the r bank left bank misfire..... I changed and changed jets.... FInally, changed needles from 4clip, to 3clip, middle spot.... Bike ran perfect after that...... But, maybe your bike just started doing this??

Im sitting at around 1000feet elevation, and my compression on my 2003limited edition is 114psi and 115psi.... The engine has never been apart, and it runs very strong....... Just installed a noss head, now its up to 150psi....... The cylinders still had the crosshatch in them........ As for your missfire, dont forget to check out your reeds..........

Pipes sold.............

That sucks on your situation.... You had No air leaks.... did you make sure your carbs were synched right?? That can definately burn up a new engine.... It does sound like you may be jetted lean with 300s if you have port work..... Also, what kinda mixture were you running? 32:1? It says in the Yamaha manual to use an even thicker mixture during break in on the first tank of fuel...... Also, did you make sure your waterpump is working , and not stripped out?? make sure it is circulating coolant....? And did you double check, for airleaks around your crossover tube where it goes into the carb boots...? And finally, are you sure those carbs are assembled correct? You may wana try those new carbs you got from me the other day.... They were working perfectly, and just done up by Jeff..... Just double check the jet sizes in them for your application........Goodluck man.....

The 4mill dune/ drag ports i saw dynoed put down 78-80horsepower.... That was to the wheels..... Those were F.A.S.T. port jobs.... Those guys were running cpi and one had shearer pipes..... 35mm carbs...... That was at the littesahara dyno, in waynoka ok..... If you go to rdz's website, he show dyno runs with inframe drag pipes and out of frame drag pipes... Think the out of frames made 2-3hp more than the inframe dragpipes......

T5s would be good if your bike is mainly stock....... IF you have some mods, the cpi or shearers would be my next choice...... The cpi's seem to hit hard in the middle of power band, and pull good, the shearers hit good in the middle and pull more topend and rpm then the cpi's........................ I also have a set of shearers that would fit your bike in the forsale section.......If your interested......

bump....

Pm's returned.... and yes, the cheap chrome shearers are $535plus shipping, and they dull the first hour of riding.... The good chrome shearers are $625 plus shipping.......... I just checked prices this week....... You dont find these pipes used that often..... Yes, you can order them new from shops that carry them, but thats $200 more than im asking for these...... And these the highest horsepower bike for a banshee, except for the out of frame drag pipes............

Hard to find pipes......up

New prices... $400 local pickup........ $440shipped..........

up

Whats your engine/tranny builder say??

bump

When you install the tors delete kit, Your suppose to install idle screws.... Most kits come with them, but sometimes you have to buy them separate.... You actually have to drill each carb, and install one in each carb..... Just be patient, its not hard to do......And on stock, carbs, there are about 3ways to synch the carbs..... If you look, there is a site window on the carbs.... When both carbs are synched properly, when you push the thumb throttle in, you will see a line on the carb slides, thru the site windows... When they are synched right, you will be able to see the line thru the site window, in the same spot, on each carb.....2nd way, is to get a synch tool, from Jeff at F.A.S.T. Then you just set each carb, with the exact vacuum reading , on each carb.... then you rev it a bit to a higher rpm, and make sure readings are still same on each carb.... 3rd way, you stand at the back of the bike, and actually watch the carb slides, with the airfilter off, and adjust until they are dead exact, from off idle, to mid throttle, and at full throttle.... IF YOU GOOGLE carb synchronization for a banshee, there is plenty of videos to show you how its done.....and different methods.... There may even be link on here to show you how to do it..... And make sure if you do race that yfz 450 in the dirt, you got sum good good durt tires, because, banshees tend to blow the tires off (spin) in the dirt, hard,,and thats when them four pokes will get you...

Shearer pipes forsale, small bore / inframe....... Bought these for my 421cub, but going "oofs" Pipes are approx 2years old, I would rate them an 8 out of 10........ The pipes have no dents or dings, and look perfect from the outside...... The inside has some soot on them, and have a few minor spots where chrome has dulled, and a few small small flakes...... $450shipped or $410 local pickup

pm sent on carbs