shoopie

just downloaded it on my android. awesome! works really well and really easy to use.

i actually found one in my dads toolbox in his shop. glad i dont have to spend $70 on one. i always go check there before i buy a tool because he has been working on trucks and cars for 30+ years so he usually has nearly every tool that i need.

I don't remember at the moment. I will check it out tomorrow.

i think im going to go with the Razrs. just questioning the gearing but i will figure that out after i get the tires.

yea, the only time these things hook up are on the road or on thick grass. even then i have to be leaning back to get it up. i expect it to be a completely different experience with different tires.

heres my moneypit

thanks for this info. i am doing mine in the next few weeks also, along with axle bearings and locknut, a-arm ball joint mod, and yfz shocks.

i am in the market for a new set of rear tires/rims. i currently have 18/10/8 turf tamers and they really dont have any grip at all, i want to get a set of holeshots or razrs. can i go up to a 20/11/9 without changing my gearing or should i up my rear sprocket a couple teeth? i like how it is now but if i kept the 18's i would go down a tooth or so on my rear just for some extra speed because it is lacking a little bit so im thinking the 20's will be okay but looking for an expert opinion. also. i know its been asked hundreds of times but what should i get, razrs or holeshots? i do mostly trail, sand pit, and packed dirt/rocky riding, as aggressive as i can without killing myself, little jumping, mostly fast runs, whoops and bermshots. (i know, i do everything, hard to determine what is best) im eventually going to get a set of Holeshot XCR fronts but cant afford them at the moment. -Ryan

thanks, right after i posted this question i found a couple adaptors on motosport.

is there an adaptor clamp or plate i can buy so i can mount 1 1/8" bars on the stock 7/8" stem? i cant afford a new stem and i dont like having a crossbar on my bars so i would like an alternative so i can use fatbars.

u ass hole.

well my front end is out of commission for a while so i have some time to to some investigation in the motor. what am i looking for in the bottom end that would effect the kickstart?

I had some thick stuff in there last week but I changed it and put in some 10w30 clutch saver like 3 days ago but its still happening. Also my kicker is only engaging like half way down so its hard to start because I'm not getting a good full kick. Any suggestions?

when i pull my clutch lever when its in gear it seems like it barely engages. this only happens when its cold. once the motor warms up it doesnt happen. is there anything i can do to make this not happen or do i need a new clutch?

I'm having this same problem. Yesterday I had to tow it behind my friends car to get it started. But once its warmed up it kicks fine.

shocks are SOLD! cant wait to get em. thanks HQ!

do you still have the shocks? very interested pm sent

see other thread

haha yea. i wish i had the money to do a project truck like that. im also 18, senior in hs. i want to sell my boat so i can get a nice pickup. this thing was a total pos i checked it out today. needs a lot of work. missing panels in the inside. im not going to do it.

well i check it out today and i wasnt impressed. it really didnt look like it does in the pics. needs an alignment, missing window switch panel on drivers side. other missing parts. definitely needs work. i dont think i can do it unless i can make some negotiations.

just kbb'd it. got about $5300. going to look it over and test it out tomorrow, we'll see. what year is that chebby in your sig? looks damn nice. got any more pics?

trust me im not going to leave the banshee world forever. im just thinking about this from a money making standpoint. just kbb'd the truck at just around $5,300 in its current state and i have less than $2300 in my banshee. im going to do the trade and try to sell the truck and see what happens.

yea i dont think im going to drive it that much. probably just clean it up and put it up for sale.

the leak is from the bottom of the case somewhere.

some of you are going to call me an idiot. but i changed the oil in my banshee today because i had a nice leak so i drained what was left (barely any) and re-filled. only thing i had on hand was some heavy truck oil. i think 15W-40. i ran it for like 5 minutes just to get it cycled and it seemed like it didn't want to rev as high as it should and when i engaged the clutch it was definitely still grabbing a good bit and it was pretty hard to shift into neutral. should i definitely switch back to the bel ray i had in it, which i think was 10W-30? also do any of the stop-leak oil additives work well in banshee motors? i think someone split the cases in this bike before i got it and didn't seal it right so now that its getting colder the metal in my case is contracting and leaking more because it never really leaked before except for the occasional drips. -Ryan