dirtclod20

I've emailed the pictures to Dave. Here is what you do, buy some blaster footpegs off ebay for 10bucks, cut the pegs off and use a transfer punch to create a new bracket out of 1/4'' stock. Cut your stock pegs off and weld them to the blaster pegs. Use a piece of 1'' angle to brace underneath, and a 2 1/4'' piece of rectangluar tubing with one end cut off for your extensions. You'll have to put a 1/2'' spacer on the footpeg where your right foot goes. Weld it all together and paint it with some Rustolem and bolt everything up. I've been real pleased with them, and I only spent 15bucks and 1hour of labor vs. 1days pay for the IMS ones. Marc

someone please tell me how to upload a picture and i'll show them a really trick footpeg idea for under 15bucks. I keep getting an error saying that I can't upload this type of file. Marc

I'm planning on modifing my front fenders so that they sit over the front tire like a plymouth prowler. I'll post some pics when I get done. Marc

I have a ricky stator on a adjustable plate and i think i have it set at 0. I don't know what you use as a guide so that you can set your timing. Also, Ricky said he like stock timing better then anything. Then why make an adjustable plate???

My banshee was spitting real bad up top occasionally and someone told me to check the stator. When I pulled the flywheel cover off, water poured out. The flywheel advance key is almost sheered and my stator looks like it sat in a oven on 350 for a hour. SO i'm thinking it's safe to say the stator is fried, right? So where do I go now to get it fixed? Lastly, who on here can machine my stator cover so that I can ditch this degree key, or should I just stick it back to stock? Marc

I'd be interested in the coil and stator. Let me know if you decide to sell it. Marc

I have a CV and PT mids and like it really well. I would look at ebay for a good deal on a used set personally. The DMC's and pro-circuits would be my second choice probably. GOod luck in your search. Marc

Sredish and wife, I wish nothing but good things for you and your husband, I will keep you all in my prayers. My brother, his girlfriend, and my girlfriend are all nurses so I always get the 2nd degree about riding safely. Sometimes accidents just come with the territory, so helmets and safety are all we can hope to get us home at night. Tell him to recovery quickly and that all his buddies on bansheehq are thinking about him. Marc

Guys, I have a lot of things to check. I never thought that my jetting would be affected if I merly changed 2stroke oils. The 100:1 is a amsoil and is designed to run at that. All I meant by saying that I run it at 80:1 was I run 6oz to 5 gallons instead of 6 like they suggest. I was just a little skeptical about running 100:1 even though many people do it, I've heard of people running 350:1 in snowmobiles without problems. I check my stator and see if it looks melted at all. Does anyone have any idea where I might pick up some plug wire caps, I'm kinda used to buying the whole wire. I'll go over everything tomorrow and post my results. Marc

Thanks for all the reply's, I'll check my coil wires until someone post how to check the stator. Also, I never said I was running 100:1 oil at 32:1, I said I'm running 100:1 at 80:1. I also should have said that it ran fine for 10-15 gallons at this ratio. Marc

My banshee just decided one day to be a pain. When you go out and ride it, it will run fine until you go WOT, then it will miss and sputter sporadically and then clear up and do it again. I've made no carb changes, the cyclinder PSI is 115 both cyclinders. I run amsoil 100-1 at 80-1 which I sorda question, b/c this tank of gas is when the problems started. However, others run this ratio with success and I have too until this tank. I've changed plugs and checked them again and they look really rich. I'm running a 170main in my single 33pwk, anyone else run this carb, and if so what mj do you run. Lastly, what do you guys think my issue can be, I'm running out of ideas. Marc

Since you have it apart, I would order a pro-design impellor and put it in. The stockers are absolute junk and I think they are better served as garbage. Better off to fix it now then be on a trail and it melt on you. Marc

What kind of Walthers are those, the glock and DE also look good. Thinking about picking up a Walther for plinking, but my friends say it will replace my glock rather quickly. Marc

Dad and I have been looking at those .500 S&W's and the .500 Magnum Research, the same people that make your DE. 450grain with 2600ftlbs of energy (I think that's right, almost twice that of a .454 casul). Good for plucking some starlings around the house or the local bears if they decide to attack.

80:1 amsoil and running strong. Marc

I am guessing since you got your CCL, then you want some protection. I have glocks, but don't love them. A sig is a very comfortable gun and so are Walther's, very nice well built firearms. 1911 are great guns, but wouldn't do much for a concelled gun imo. 380, 9mm, 40 are good caliber choices to look into. Good luck in your search. Marc

Trouble was a melted water-pump impeller. Put me a new pro-design in there with new bearings and seals and all is running good thus far. I guess it was getting hot and causing it to run shitty. Glad it was a fairly simple, and a good investment fix. Marc

Well, I put everything back together and all is good as new. I think the problem was that I haven't changed my ATF fluid latley. ATF works great for lubrication on these machines, but it must be changed frequently. I can't stress this enough. I flushed my motor with diesel, put some new clutch's/shift star,springs in and adjusted everything. Now everything works better then ever.

I will sell you a set of carbs with the TORS removal already installed, cable and everything ready to bolt on for 60 shipped. The same price of a kit, before you have to install it. PM or email if interested. Marc

yeah, i was just hoping to kill three birds with one stone is all. I may just have to go to the local dealer. Thanks for the heads up though. Marc

I found out today that the factory waterpump impeller is cracked and messed up. I need to find a place that will sell me a pro-flo, the bearing, and the funky seal that goes in there. Does anyone know of a place that will sell me all three of these parts? Also, does anyone like the manual you can download off this website for $6.00?

Boonman did mine and I assume it had to make a difference. When you see how much material is removed(me coming from a car background), it's easy to see it must make some difference. I did a few mods at one time, but my shee is so smooth and powerful. I have had friends that had less powerful shee's but felt more powerful, b/c of how abrupt the power came on. Mine, is like riding a DOHC 4 stroke, you feel the powerband come on, but then you realize that you are just flying. You don't feel like your arms will come off at your shoulder. Really, i don't think for 65 bucks or so you can loose. If it were a 200 dollar mod or something, I may hold off on it, but 65 bucks isn't a whole lot of money for the smoothness you seem to gain. Good luck. Marc

More praise to Holyman, he has always be very quick and professional. Plus the kickstarter mod is awesome.

Does anyone have a picture of how all that goes together, the starter shaft and such.

I found the three arrows on the plate, spaced apart in thirds. Then on the basket there is one stamped arrow at the end of one of the fingers or something. I guess if i line those arrows up, then the rest will be right? Lastly, should the basket have small notches or grooves where the steel plates have been engaging?