dirtclod20

I already have pulled the rod/ball out, everything looks fine. Honestly I don't know the exact procedure to adjusting the clutch at the basket, nor do I completely understand lining up arrows that are somewhere on the basket. Since someone intelligent is going to help me out here, be kind and also tell me if I should leave the rubber spacers out of the clutch's. Last thing, should I use all 6 barnett springs or 3 hd/ 3 stockers? Thanks

Well, all the plates came apart from the next, they did seem to have some wear as evidence of the dirty oil. However, clutch rod/ball-ok, basket-ok, adjuster nut-ok. Maybe i'll put my new clutch in and all will be fine and dandy. What needs to be removed to check where the arm goes into the tranny for problems. I believe it to be ok, I can stick a screw driver in the hole to meet the ball and pull in the lever and get movement. Maybe the dirt AFT i had in there caused the clutches to stick is the only thing I can think of, that and the LEPRACHAUNS!

THe cover has a nice gasket on it, I'm hoping that it will seal things up nicely. Good luck.

I don't want to hi-jack this post, but I have one going now talking about the same problem. Only thing is, i wasn't riding mine when it happened. I just parked it and went out the next day and the level was really easy. I took the clutch apart and the nut was tight, took everything apart and the rod and ball came out with no problem and look fine. Any other things I should be checking?

Nope, that's why i'm blaming the leprachauns. Wierd isn't it.

Can the adjuster just knock itself out of adjustment overnight? I parked the quad, and came out the next day and no clutch pressure. I think leprachauns are sneaking in and messing with it.

Glad to see others are thinking on the same level as me

I only have on carb, i cleaned it today and still no luck. The reeds maybe have 4 hrs on them, new TDR. However, i guess this still could be a possibility. I'll check the connections on the coil. Lastly I wasn't jumping anything, just going around a field. Any help

rod and ball are all fine and dandy, any other ideas? Also, any pics of how the kickstarted assembly go back on? Not sure where the notch goes on the shaft.

Thanks so much. Does anyone ever drill out the center of the clutch side cover where the yamaha logo goes. I've thought about drilling a 1 1/2'' hole so that i could adjust my clutch without taking the whole cover off. Any input or suggestions?

Go out today to figure out why my bike wasn't running to hot, cleaned the carb and fired it up. Sounded great but when I pulled in the clutch, there was no tension. New cable and the arm is moving. I pulled the clutch apart and don't see any problems. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? Also, when replacing the clutch, do i reuse those rubber things between the plates? Thanks Marc

How in the hell do you get the shift star out?

Can the float valve get out of wack from nothing at all. It went from running great one sec to running off and on every three or four seconds.

Compression test was good, 120psi in both cyclinders. How do you check the stator again?

Brian, hopefully I'll know a little more in a few hours. But it will still kick in and run great, only for a few seconds and then go to spitting and running poorly. What happens when the cdi box goes out?

Last week i parked my shee and go out today to ride it started up fine, let it idle for a minute or so while i filled it up. Went out to ride and it was acting like the plugs were fouled, spitting and sputtering and after a few minutes it wouldn't take any throttle at all. Kinda like when the ebrake does it's magic, but I don't have any of that crap on my bike. I come back, change the plugs and fire it up, sounds fine, go to run it and it will rip for a few seconds and the start sputtering and doing the same thing. Last time I parked it, I was riding it pretty hard low on fuel. I hope that I didn't lean it out and mess something up. I'll give it a compression test tomorrow and report back, however it compression was the issue it wouldn't go from running great to shit in the same minute. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. What happends when crank seals go bad? Thanks in advance. Marc

Stock carbs, tors removal and cleaned-----50 Air box, uni-filter, modded to hold the filter secure like a pro-flow-----30 Stock steering stem-----25 Reed spacers, longer bolts and gaskets included-----30 Boost bottle-----15 or will include with reed spacers for-----40 Moto Fast 2-1 pipe/silencer, needs sanded down and painted, but very functional, I put it on a stock 03 last weekend to see if it would make a difference by itself, quite noticeable. Good pipe for someone who doesn't have 400-650 to spend on pipes.-----75 Pictures can be emailed upon request, or if someone tells me how to post pictures on here I'll do that. I can be reached at; [email protected] 502 727 6484 502 633 5746 Thanks, Marc

Hello all, I just have a small sad story to pass along in hopes that you all will gain from my loss. I am a 23 year old young man and unfortnately I came home monday to find my best friend lifeless in his den. My dad was 59 years old and had no major health problems. He was a retired from being a locomotive engineer for over33 years for CSX/L&N, a Mason, Shriner, Vietnam Vet, and a father of two boys, my brother being 26, my mom being 55. He had type 2 diabeties which means a pill a day took care of any sugar problems. He and mom started the atkins diet 1 week ago in hope he could reach the his weight when he came out of the Air Force. If you know anyone planning to start a new diet, tell them to check with their doctor first. Tell them a friend you know may have lost his father b/c he didn't. I'm not saying the diet killed him, but I've found out that a doctor would have informed him probably not to try the diet being a diabetic. Just think! Secondly, tell your family or anyone you care about how much you love them. Take the time to push some paper work aside or laptop away. Turn off the t.v. and ask how their day was. You never know when your time is up on this world, and if you'll never talk to them again. You'll feel better if you can remember the last time you said you loved them or how important they are to you. My hopes aren't to offend anyone or bring anyone down, but no one thinks there loved ones may be gone in an instant. Next time you start to get mad or draw out a long fight, thing what could happen while you're mad at one another over something that probably won't matter next month. For any religous people out there, say a prayer for my family. Marc Coyle

So bottom line, would having boonman or banshee worx lighten my flywheel be beneficial or not? I'm sure there might be a better method of lightening the flywheel that will give the best of both worlds (low and high end). However I'm a believer of not trying to reinvent the wheels, just make it roll better. I feel the benefits to the latest ideas would probably be very minimal as far as rideability. I don't live on my banshee so a simply mod that could make it ride a little smoother is fine by me. When I start driving it to florida, I may look into changing the powerband. Marc

Thanks for the ideas, I missworded about the carbs. I meant someone give me pegs + cash for the carbs.

I'm looking for two foot pegs, I can buy out right or trade for reed spacers, stock carbs plus money, stock air box with uni-filter. Marc

I have a trinity IV intake with a 2000 polaris scrambler 400 carb on it. It's a 35CV mikuni and I feel I've got it dialed in pretty good. Comes with throttle cable, clamp on uni-filter with outwear. I've only ran about 10gallons of gas thru it, and I may be selling my shee to buy a home. This setup really rips and has helped my fuel mileage along with performance. Plus jetting changes take about 2minutes. I figure I won't get any more money with it on the bike and would rather it go to a banshee hq member. 275 shipped for everything. My email is; [email protected] and my phone is: 502 727 6484 if you have any questions. Also, I am setup for paypal thanks Marc

My thoughts are the Expeditions aren't put together to well. This is just my opinion an please take it with a grain of salt. I don't know where your from and if 4wd is important to you? I know the Expeditions get a whopping 14MPG on a good trip, so consider that. I like big SUV's as much as the next red blooded american, and if I were to be looking at them. I'd look no further then a Diesel Excursion, I'm sure plenty will argue this one with me. But the 7.3 has been choosen for mining carts for their reliabilty and I'll agree with it. There are better motors, but you can't get it in a SUV like the Excursion. On top of everything else, for about 1k you can add gobs of HP/FTLB and easily maintain 20mpg on the highway. You'll be hard pressed to find a 4wd for your budget, but a 2wd should be a breeze. Good luck Marc

*You very well think I have my head in the clouds, but dildo's have been around for centuries. Much longer then anyone would ever think. Ancient Hyroglyphics(?) prove that Egyptians were the first to experiment with dildo's. Greeks and and later in the Renissance era they became even more popular with the ladies and actually the men. My educated stab at this would be some sort of dildo from yesteryear. Maybe if I could examine it better, I might persuade my thoughts otherwise. I SAY DILDO and i'm sticking to it. Marc

THanks for the advice guys, Marc