matt1

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Thanks, I was told by another sponsor that they would not cut stock heads and that they did not recommend doing it on a 4mm. Any ideas why?

Can a stock head be cut for a 4mm on pump gas(I am at sea level)? Does anyone know if a prodesign head makes the spark plug sit any higher than a stock head? I barely have enough clearance with a stock head on my hybrid between the gas tank and the sparkplug boot.

Did you (thomas h) ever get anybody to cut off the resi and make it remote? If You did please post who did it or pm me. I have not come up with a good airbox around the resi. I built an airbox and it ended up being to restrictive on the resi side. When you went to an oversized tank did you have any clearance issues with the pingle and spark plugs? I ended up relocating the pingle to the the middle of the tank to get enough clearance. Are you still having overheating issues? Maybe you have a bad radiator, I ride in the florida heat and have yet to have mine try to boil. I run the YFZ radiator and still have the crappy plastic impeller

? No one I have talked too has complained about overheating. My runs fine in the florida heat. Build one ride one and then come up with an opinion. I agree spark plug clearance is a tight.

Intersested in selling the unported topend? txt me 386 688 0466 Matt. Your mailbox is full and will not accept anymore pms.

Thats kinda my thinking, a wet clutch is a wet clutch. I am going o try ATF after I get my new basket installed.

My thought was either do this or a stock stroke serval. Don't really want to spend the money on a new crank and I am sceptical about buying used ported cylinders because I do not have the ability to tell the visual difference between a good port job and a not so good port job. By the time you buy another set of stock jugs and have them ported I would not think that there would be much savings over buying a serval. I was considering these sleeves because they are ported and cheap, 170 for new ported sleeves seems like a good deal if the porting is good and makes decent power.

The oil is designed for wet clutch applications

Had not thought about that, I think it has 10w 40 mobile one full synthetic motorcycle oil in it right now.

When I first start my bike and pull in the clutch to put it in gear it takes off almost like I did not pull the clutch. After the first time the clutch seems to disengage fine. My basket is pretty grooved up and I have ordered a new one but do you think that this is my problem? I thought it was odd that it only happens on first start up and not continuely. I have a new clutch cable and it appears to be adjusted properly. Seems to be getting progressively worse. I have tried to pull and realease the clutch a few times before I take off but it does not seem to help.

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Anybody ever run one of these? Looks cool 74mil bore I was told they had one that went to 78 as well http://www.superiorsleeve.com/bore.htm

I currently have a new welded stoke stroke crank with a set of 66.5 cylinders that will need to be resleeved next time I rebuild. I was looking on the TDR website and found a set of 68-70 mil sleeves that come ported for a decent price. Has anyone every used them and if so how much machine work must be done to install them. I have a machinist that owes me a favor so I was think about doing this instead of getting new cylinders. They also have a sleeve that starts at 70 and can be bored to 72. If anyone has every used these I would like to here some input on how they ran. Looking to use a stock head, stock carbs bored, and FMF fatty pipes in my YFZ chassis. How many cc s would a 70 mil bore on stoke stroke be? http://www.bansheedepot.com/products.asp?cat=45

Took the bike out to the Osceola Forrest this past weekend and it worked great! Way more comfortable on long rides than the banshee. Just to let the Florida riders know the Osceola Forrest is currently dry and good for riding. Did not come across hardly any trails that required you to ride thru water.

I' ve got a set and they work awesome but do wear pretty quick. Very light tire. I have a 20 inch set and they are considerably shorter than my holeshot HDs of the same dimensions.

Awesome build, I just finished my YFZ conversion and this looks like another project for the near future! How much would you have to extend the a arms to get to a 50 inch track width? If it was 50 in track width how long do you think the shocks would have to be to get a normal ride height? I love to see home project like these that can be done with basic tools, This looks like a good project for anyone with a little ambition. This might be what I do to build the wife a bike.

I ve got a set of digital scales for our circle track car. No overheating issues, as a matter of fact my phone fell out of my pocket and I rode for about an hour at first gear speeds trying to find it. The tank is an IMS 3.6 I believe, I got it used on ebay for 55 bucks and did not pay attention to the brand. I had to relocate the fuel petcock to the center of the tank because it came out right on top of my spark plug. I installed a cascade chain tensioner today because the return side of the chain was too close to the lower frame rail. If you have never used one you should check it out, it keeps the top side of the chain tight while allowing you to leave plenty of slack for suspension travel. This bike has soo much more forward bite than a banshee frame it is crazy, pulling the tires up in the trails is much easier due to the increase in traction. I also made a plus 2 steering stem which I feel is a must if you are over 5' 5". I probably have 30 or 40 hours tied up in the build but I was not in a big hurry either.

finally got to ride mine today and it ran great all day with no problems. Put the bike on the scales and it weighed 365 with oil, water and no gas. the balance on the bike was 49.8% rear and 50.1% left side. I have holeshot HD( 20 rear 23 front) tires with a fairly heavy set of wheels( T9s I think). Anyone got scale numbers on a banshee once you put pipes on it? factory pipes are pretty heavy. I will post some more pics tomorrow when I get it cleaned up.

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I think the fit was pretty good, I had to cut and bend the pipes a fair bit but not too bad. I am waiting on my pods, chain, 42t sprocket and a few other odds and ends. I spent a good bit of time studying pictures of every body elses before starting. I could never get my left pipe to sit as high as my right but I got fairly close. I plan on building sheetmetal air box eventually to protect my pods but for now I will probably just run open pods. I am also waiting on my oversize tank to arrive. I don't think the pipes stick out far enough to be a problem moving around and I can't wait to take it for a ride and see how it handles. I actually have never rode a yfz 450 before so I am interested to see what it feels like.

I am just about finished with mine and I can say that I did not think that it was too bad of a job. I will probably have about 20 or 25 hours of time spent on the project. 2 into 1 would probably be a pain unless you plan on doing some major frame mods or pipe cutting. I used a set of fatty's and found that the right side is pretty easy and the left is a pain. I ended up cutting my left pipe twice, once at the flange and once at a seam so that I could rotate the pipe to line up better. I also used a torch to heat up and bend the pipes in a place or two. Overall I thought the swap was not that hard just time consuming. You can see mine on the thread I started.

Was this the fuel injected banshee in Dirt wheels a while back? Probably the nicest banshee that I have seen.

http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/Mathew6254/?action=view&current=2011-12-22220030.jpg http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/Mathew6254/?action=view&current=2011-12-22215948.jpg http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/Mathew6254/?action=view&current=2011-12-22174517.jpg http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/Mathew6254/?action=view&current=2011-12-22215904.jpg http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa356/Mathew6254/?action=view&current=2011-12-22215928.jpg I still have some work to do running radiator hoses and cleaning up the harness but let me know what you think so far. Waiting on some parts from f.a.s.t to finish it up.

I was looking at the radiator that you are using in the pics, what year cr 500 is that and does it do a good enough job cooling the engine. I am currently building mine and was thinking about trying it but I live in florida where its hot as hell. What kind of temp does it run? awesome looking bike!