patrickkomar

I'm going to do a bit of thread high jacking here but I went to vitos web site and looked in to these pistons thinking they might be the way to go but they only show 2 sizes(64.00mm std and 66.50 .100) dose this mean they go threw std to .100 over? or that is the only 2 sizes they manufacture them in? And has any one had one of these pistons and a wiseco superlight sitting right next to each other? how did the windows compare and what not?

I'm with Ak here, one of my riding partners has a K&T drag ported cub and he runs a tusk clutch with all hd springs. It's holding up great to all of his abusive hill shooting(read:second gear launches, shooting the hill with his hay bag on the back to make it fair for the other guys ,beating the pants of them craptor with the hair dryers with windshield washer squirters and every other bad thing you can think of to a clutch) and it has a full season on it still works and look great. I'd check the oil i was running, adjustment and condition of all related parts be for spending big bucks on a clutch. just my 2 cents.

That makes total sense to me but what about some one like me who rides sand only? Bare oiled filters in the sand would be covered quick I would think. In my case do you think they would still do more harm than good?

ok I'll bite....... what problems do outerwears present?

wow I'm impressed So is this a good upgrade for some one running stock porting? How will these hold up on a dune bike running on rough sand with a 6 over swinger?I guess what i'm getting at is how floppy are they hanging way back there? do you have outerwears in stock for these filters?

K&T will be doing the machine work so I'm not to worried about quality of workmanship but my buddy told me he thinks they charged him 200 bones to weld up his crank and that they don't do it in house. That may have changed since his was done 2 years ago. I'm going to check out a few other shops here locally and see what they charge.

the crank I'm running now isn't welded or trued so I'm going to have to buy one any way(don't want to be wiping out my cases) that's whats driving the 4 mill long rod crank idea. I have a set of never punched jugs sitting on the shelf in my gun safe just waiting for a 4 mill dune port,and that would just leave the new domes to buy when I can afford to have the port work done. So instead of buying a welded and trued stock stroke crank and then having to turn around and buy a 4 mill crank I'd like to just do the 4 mill long rod and run the spacer if there are not to many draw backs in doing so. I'll leave my ports alone then. maybe the machine shop I'm going to use can give me a deal on cleaning them up!

I would like to go 4 mill long rod. I was talking about cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports but not changing the porting it's self, I can do the tear down and build work my self(I had to do a crank swap this last winter as my stocker was about to go bad!) the only thing that has me worried is setting the squish, but from what I've read it's not to bad just time consuming and attention to detail is needed.

Well my daughter got brand new shiny braces and now my winter build stash of cash is all but gone! The plan was to go with a long rod crank and a K&T dune port and now I stuck with just a few bucks and I'm in need of fresh bore bare minim. Ok here come the rookie questions! How safe is it to run a set of jugs that are punched .080 over on a dune bike that gets floged pretty darn hard keeping up with the rails in my group of friends? I know that most folks on this site don't like the idea of running a stroked motor with the spacers but what are the draw backs to doing so? Can you run a long rod crank with a spacer? What is involved in clean up port work and can I pull it off at home in my garage or should it be left to the pros?

holy sheep shit batman! wow that had to hurt like a mother. Now I've been riding since I was 6 years old and not once been temped to clean my chain with the bike on the stand with it running and in gear!

Just install a sealed on/off toggle switch were the black box for the torrs use to be and just junk the key switch. Trust me if it failed now it will fail again and it sucks to have to walk/push your bike to the truck.

So a duning pal of mine brought me his boys drag/dune shee to install a new clutch in it this weekend, and when I poped the cover off the clutch looked ok but the basket was grooved pretty bad. So i pulled the basket off and filed fairly smooth wile I had the new fibers soaking in some oil buttoned her back up and it passed the test ride but he would like to replace the basket and wile he is not afraid to put money in to his boys race bike he is not made of money. thanks for your opinions.

don't for get the bike should be at operating temp when you do your test! Unless you have a really nice compression gauge you may want to do the test a few times on each cylinder and take an average.

Yes and no...... if there is no resistance at all when you kick then ya some thing is way wrong. You should be able to slowly move the kicker and feel one of the cylinders come to the compression stroke but it's not like trying to kick over a big bore thumper! The compression test will tell you all you need to know about the general state of affairs inside of engine.

What you need to do is run a compression test before you take the head off! The stock bore banshee is no slouch(buy the way stock bore means that you are using oem sized jugs from factory fresh to about .080 over. boring the stock cylinder will not really net you much more hp nor displacement) but it's not going to set the asphalt a blaze ether.If you compression numbers are good you need to look to jetting to fix your problems. My stock bore banch takes me just about any were I want to go in the little Sahara sand dunes here in ut. and will get me up thunder mountain in id. and if I had a 6" over arm I'm betting it would take me up choke cherry all so! If your numbers on the compression test are low and you pop the head and find scuffed jugs then your looking at most likely a boar job and a new set of pistons and if the money allows it I would have port work done wile your at it as this will start you down the road to setting some thing on fire!

I run a set of 21x12x8 10 paddle haulers on the bike in my sig with 14/44 gearing. Paddles are kinda spendy but if your some what good to them they will last you a long time so with that said look to your future and put some thought in to what mods might want to do and buy paddles accordingly (I my self look forward to building a dune ported 371 long rod this winter) if your just going to do the bolt on thing for the next 3 years a set of 8 paddles will work for you well, if your going to port polish, add bigger carbs, longer swinger and drag pipes look in to some nine paddles. Bigger motor I'd say 10 paddles are a good chose unless your going over 421 then all bets are off and your in to the drag race side of things and thats not some thing I can really comment on!

I'm with fouledout on this one that clutch looks wooped!

I used the tusk top end gaskets when I did my rebuild and have yet to have a problem!(30 + hard days in the sand from upper 30's cold to upper 90's HOT) I to had to filp one up side down but as stated yamaha gaskets are the same! I haven't had many problems with the tusk products I have bought over the years so with that in mind I'd have to ask if you have checked to see if the bottom of the cylinder and your case are flat? Did you miss a step when you put that side together? Could be a hundred different one of them being a gasket that was doomed for failure from the get go!

No help here kids? My riding partner had this all most same exact same set up on his bike but he runs cpi in frames were I run T-5's and he ran 34mm kunis bored out to 35mm.

Use a shop rag and let it wind between the output gear on the crank and input gear on clutch hub. Works! and wont damage any thing.

Sorry about the slow reply just got got back from an Idaho dune trip! No I don't have porting as of yet(there is a 371 long rod with dune porting coming this winter)the main Idea of the carb swap is that I can have a set of used ones in my hands for about a 125 bones if I want them and I really really hate my stock carbs. the P.O. botched the tors removal and striped the bosses that the idle screw go's in so he just jb welded the jam nuts to the bosses and called it a day! It looks like ass/ is driving my ocd nuts/ I don't trust the screws to stay in all that much and I can't cut down the springs in the stock carbs and buy the time I go threw a half tank of fuel my thumb is pretty tired. So the question is will I have trouble tuning these carbs for a all bolt on bike or should I just wait for the winter build! Oh as a side note I have the manifolds and filters to fit these carbs all ready as I have been collecting parts for my winter build for a wile now :biggrin:

will the pj's work on a banshee? Next question will they work on my bike in my sig?

K well it's bent back in to what I think is about right and I'm trying to decide what is going to be the best way to do the gussets. Thinking about adding to whats there, I have a good friend who fabs sandrails might take it out to him and let him give me a few ideas

bump

I just installed my timing plate and set it to+ 4 will I have to rejet?