patrickkomar

The port-a-power is no problem for me to get my hands on(have over a 100 at work from 2 to 10 ton and up 18" of stroke!) and cut, grind, weld is some thing I do really well...... dose any one have any pics of were they in stalled there new gussets? The "Hoop" seems to have bent just above the factory gussets but is not touching the fuel tank. I can get pic's up tomorrow if it helps.

So I had a side roll over crash that toasted a set of bars and now that I'm doing the tear down/ inspection, it appears that the hoop that holds the upper steering stem mount has been bent back toward the fuel tank. How do I go about straightening this up and how do I know when I have it right?

I run my T-5's with nothing in them at all I don't think it reduced the performance at all and it's not really any louder then with the packing in, in mho

k take a big ol deep breath and relax! If the coolant was leaking at the head it wouldn't wind up in the trany, it would of been burned off and made your exhaust smell sweet. Did you replace the o-ring on the tube that comes out of the side of your case in to the clutch cover? and if yes did you put a thin coat of sillycone/rtv on it? last but not least the water pump seal is suspect. Those two thing are the only way I know for coolant to make in to your trany and both are easy and not expensive to fix if your careful when you pull the clutch cover and don't tear the gasket.

Other Rotella 15-40 it works and I run it in every thing else I own with no troubles so why not,and there's all ways a gallon of it in the garage! :biggrin:

what are the pro's and cons to each and what do you prefer to run and why?

thanks for the links to the trees that ought to help :biggrin:! and yup it's the delta drags and I plan on going barring a major problems coming up! I'll have to dig a up a pic of my pos and post it! And time for another stupid question.....what is a good reaction time? I was getting right around .515 on the sportsman tree and .530 to 590s on the pro.

thanks guys! I'm not sure what kind of tree they are going to run but I'll ask the guys at the shop I picked up the flyer from there pretty big in to the drags. My tune should be pretty spot on the drags are just a few miles from my home dunes here in ut. but I know there is no really good way for me to get good at cutting lights with out practice on the track. I do get 3 practice runs day of event and I know of a few web sites aimed at reaction time practice but there all geared for drag cars were you launch of the trans brake. Quick question do most of you launch out of 2nd gear?

So there is going to be a 300' sand drag near me and I would like to go play but I've never raced or drag raced on an atv. The class I'm going to be running in is super stock, from my under standing is an all bolt on class. Any tips tricks or advice you guys have for the first timer? My bike 2000 shee .060 over wiseco big window pistons stock crank and carbs w/k&n pods pro design cool head 18cc domes timing set at +4 toomey t-5s 21x12-8 10 paddle haulers/ sand hawks up front 14/44 gearing pump gas w/klotz Oh and the bad news the 2 stroke and 4 strokes all get lumped together in this class and they do allow the 4 strokers to have cams changes.

well the plan was for me to be the builder of this motor :biggrin: What I had In mind was to send the jugs and top half of the case to be ported and matched then wile the they were there I would have the holes punched out to a clean bore and have the machinist order up the correct size and type pistons and when it came back to me I would resemble the motor. my hopes were that I would use one source for all of the porting machine work and parts. I know fast and k&t carry every thing I will need for this build and just have not had the time to check in to herr or wildcard to see if they can be my one stop shop for this build.

NOPE, but it will be a bit louder than if you had it in and if your bike is jeted to run with silencers w/packing then you may have to make some small changes. Drag pipes don't run silencers at all they still run quite well, if being necked down in to that lil ity bity silencer pipe dose not provide enough back pressure then i'm not sure a chunk of fiberglass will make that big of difference.

I'm fairly new to trying to make power with a 2 stroke and I'm trying to grasp what it will take to do a 4 mill stroke with stock cylinders ported for the the 4 mill and recessed domes for my cool head. my bike and mods as of now: 2000 shee, T-5 pipes, v force 2 reeds, cool head(pro design), k&n pods w/outerwears, stock carbs sans the tors and the jugs on there as of now are punched .060 over with big window pistons but these will be null and void after this as I have a set of stock cylinders that have never been punched waiting for me to decide who and what kind of port work I'd like to get done.Oh and I guess I should tell you this is a dune 'n' rig with some hill shooting and maybe a sand drags thrown in for fun and you never know I may catch some one sleeping and win one. Now for the questions part of the post. Should I run a long rod or stroker crank? And what are the pros and cons to each? What pistons should I run the the two different cranks? I know I'll have to up my carb size but buy how much? Flat, D or round slide carbs? If there is some thing I'm not asking here and should be feel free to inform me! Like i said I'm new to the oil burners and trying to build more power. Thanks

The o-rings are what make the seal no head gasket required! I put a lil grease in the groves of my head to help hold the o-rings in place during installation (not sure if that is the recommended procedure or not but it worked for me :biggrin:) the draw back to this method is when the motor came to temp the first few times it ran out and was kind of a pain to clean but I all so didn't have to pull my head due to a pinched ring ether. You can use the stock head nuts but after a wile the will start to eat in to the head due to electrolysis, but I would think a light coat of dielectric grease on the bottom of the nut would stop it but not a 100% sure.

well first things first, if your ass and your ears tell you some things wrong for gods sake listen it will save you loads of cash in the long run! Next what do you mean when you say the exhaust fell from it's original position? I would run a compression test on both cylinders and see if you hooked a ring or maybe damaged a piston before you do any more riding!

K here is what I know about are friend nitrous oxide. High compression and nos don't mix, and here's why: when you spray your introducing a very oxygen rich gas in to your in take stream that is very cool and there for dense. When it hits you nice warm cylinder it will but the laws of nature expand and if your running high compression well, things will go boom. Now for the why you should run a wet system: since your adding more oxygen to your fuel air mix your going to create a very lean condition that will make power like no other for a very limited amount of time but it will turn your pistons in to modern art master pieces in a short order. So when your setting up your foggers I my self would go a little richer on the fuel side and then tune down! The button: SAVE YOUR SELF AND YOUR ENGINE AND MAKE IT A MOMENTARY SWITCH!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's why: when you on the juice and the fear of death has now exceeded the thrill of speed and every thing in your mind says back out of the throttle you just can't shut her down and think wow that's so much fun I'm sportin a cub, nope you have to let off the switch and stay in the throttle for a few seconds more to make sure every thing in the intake tract has been cleared or what happens is you still have stuff trickling in to a engine that is trying to slow down and well it can and will go boom. My best advice to you is read every thing you can find about how to set up,run and tune with nitrous before you slap it on the ol bike and give it a whirl! good luck and let us know how it works out!

sorry the mikuni flat slide

Check were the idle adjustment screw comes in to the slide barrel and make sure there are no burrs there! Just a thought.....

every one I know runs the flat slides and no one can tell me why they are better or what the plus or minus of ether carb would be. Can some one please explain this to me?

32:1 is fairly thick mix...... klotz may be spendy but trust me it's worth the money you pay for it! At 40:1 you should get about 40 gallons of gas mixed to 1 gallon of klotz. How are you measuring your oil? If you don't have a ratio right or the klotz version (witch I like a lot better) pick one up there fairly cheap and have a screw on lid. 112/110 is fairly even but low, your about due for a top end my friend.....and don't forget to check the play on the big end of the rods why your in there.

All Balls all the way baby! Bearings are sealed and they come with seals! rocky mountain atv has a good price on them if your not a shop around kinda guy. Were you adjusting the chain when you found the slop???? If so, when the rear carrier is losse to adjust the chain you can get a false wiggle

If it makes you feel any better easter wasn't that much fun and the sand has been fairly beat up for about the last month and it's due to rain down there again this weekend. I'm with a few others I say pick up the used crank and lets get her up and running and I'll see you in the dunes!

they will work but unless your running on soft ground they will get torn up fairly fast! Don't spend a lot on them if your running on hard or rocky ground as I don't for see them lasting long.

I play at little Sahara sand dunes in UT, elevation is right around 5000 ft so the 18cc domes on pump gas work here! The reason I ask is because around here a good set of used 34 mm carbs go for around 400 so 50 bones a side is a steal! these jugs are on there last bore but luckly I have a set of never punched jugs sitting waiting for a fresh bore and port work so untill I save the cash for the port, punch, pistons and a hot rods welded crank I'd like to take advantage of what I have and get the most out of it! All so I forgot to add I have v force 2 reeds and should have a set of CPI in frame drag pipes in the near future! And thanks for the welcome!

My set up: stock bore with wiseco big window pistons 060 over, toomy T-5's, K&N pods with outerwares, cool head 18cc domes and tors sent to the round file! I read on here you can bore out the stock carbs and was wondering who dose it , how much and will I get a good bang for my buck?