beebs

Sleeper, how close does the 35mm pwk jetting compair to the 39mm on the same engine? I have a ported 421 cub that i'm gonna breakin soon also. Thinking of starting with 165/55/DGK on 4th clip. I'm at 1800ft and around 77f.

Has anyone been able to post pics off the andriod phones yet? I tried a few diff ways with no luck. Anyone have any ideas?

I run nitro methane in my RC trucks. It goes bad very easy because it attracts so much moisture if not stored properly. After every use you need to put after run oil in the engine. It costs about 14+ bucks a quart for the good stuff and the stuff I use comes mixed with part castor oil and part synthetic oil. I always wondered about the smell some of you talk about when running meth and 927 or koltz so I picked some 927 up to run with race fuel. Almost the same smell as the nitro in my trucks. Anyway a little off topic but I just wondered if this Koltz stuff was kind of the same. Some of my little RC motors rev to almost 40,000 rpm with a single piston!

I was also told to run the 927 from my builder, I would be switching from Amsoil Dominator. Maby not now after hearing about all the buildup. Never had that problem with the Dominator.

I agree just ride it till you find another frame. Align the tires with your tie-rod adjustment and it might not even be that bad, I think it looks worse than it is just by the natural offset in the frame. Now you know witch way its bent maby you can get it straightened some, I had a bent 250R frame and took it to a body shop and it come out good as new.

Anyone else using 110, do you use the plug chop or other?

Thanks for the reply Radar, I will be using VP-C12 and Castor 927 @ 32:1. So even being hard to read a plug chop with race fuel, is it still the best way? Was it more clear when you changed oils?

One of the most accurate ways to check the main jetting on a pump fuel motor is with a plug chop. Is this also the best way on a race fuel motor? Been hearing of issues with having a hard time reading color on the porcelian(spelling?) when running race fuel. Is there a better way? Tried the search but didn't find what I was looking for.

Does the cub and super cub have head sealing issues? I have only read about the cheeta with head o-ring eating issues?

Put the bike up on a stand so all the wheels are up off the ground. Take off all 4 wheels and make 4 measurements. One from each of the top of the ball joints on each side to the end of your axle then one from each of the bottom of the ball joints on each side to the end of the axle. Try to measure as close as possible from the same locations on each side. Compair left and rigth side measirements to see how bad it is. You can also run a straight edge off the back tire to see where it meets at the front on each side tho not as accurate, but will show if the whole front end is pushed over to one side. I was fortunate enough to be able to do these checks first before I bought a banshee that I thought might have a bent frame but I know its not always possible to do. Finding this out after you buy it really bites but maby you will find out its not that bad. Hope this helps, good luck.

Just got some parts back from Jim also. Since you already have a drag port, you might also want to think about changing your pipes to snipers or shearers, if what you are looking for is more power. The Serval / Stock jug debate has been talked about lots. The ppl with Serval's seem to be happy with the power they put out and if you need new cylinders they would be a good choice, but i'm not sure it would be what a person would want if they are looking for a good power increase over any of the site sponsers aggressive ported stockers. What ever you get from Jim will be awesome work, but depending on what power you want, you might also want to look at one of his cubs.

Had the exact situation with my 4mil. After the heat cycles, like what was mentioned, re-torqued and mine stoped leaking.

I have also got motor work done from Kevin and it is awesome. You already have after market pipes you are happy with so get Kevin to port it for them. It will be cheaper to upgrade your stock carbs instead, to what size Kevin recommends. Then you will have pipes and carbs to go with your motor without spending too much cash. Good luck on your build!

Let us know how you like the cub when you get a chance.

And now on meth how do you do??

Excellent write up Andy. I was thinking that one was a 421 cub on meth. Also proves that a properly ported cub is well worth the cost, if thats the power a person is looking for.

Almost positive you would be pushing it to the limit with the avgas ay 180 psi. Think it would be best to get a diff head so you're at about 160 psi, then the avgas would be fine.

My setup is: 4-mill stk cyldr dune port with shearers and pwk 35's. HJR built it for me with the bolton's to go with it which includes the chariot intake setup. The bolton's that would work the best for this is what he used. It's fairly close to your setup and they are clamed to work better till you go bigger. If this is as far as you are going with the motor I would say chariot, and if you plan on doing alot more in the future the force might be best.

Sorry to jump in but thanks for the overlay Andy. Exactly why I wanted to see that. Very impressive top lines! Its what I would want moving up from a stk cydr ported 4mill. Is one a 421 4mill on methonal?

Andy whats the chance you could overlay the 4mill cub graph you had shown before to the comparison. Curious to see just how much stronger these setups are off the bottom to a 100hp cub!

I also use amsoil. Been using it for 22 years now with the current one being amsoil dominater at 40:1 for my shee and 889 rotax.

I have always found ordering from the US to be the best price and service wise. Obviously it would be nice to shop where you are from but when you can get stuff cheaper, faster, and knowledge about the products you won't find here, it dosen't make sence to not shop US. Always excelent service from site sponsers.

I have also done alot of research on this topic. I read through lots of posts and talked to many of the site sponsers. What I come up with is ya, the cub runs extremely hard with just a cleanup. All builders would drag port it but only some highly recommend it as a worthwhile gain for the price and work. The ones that were more for it, I felt maby had more R and D time with it and were more happy with the outcome. Don't get me wrong, all these guys know what they're doing and make some mean motors, they all just do it a little different. My verdict is a "fully blue printed comp drag ported" cub, will have significent gains over just a cleanup, when both are properly tuned and setup equal.

Tks alot Matt. I will give it a try.

I have the fascinate 3g phone and cant find the option to insert a pic to the reply box. Im in the compressed mode. Do I need to be in full page mode. How to post a pic plz? Tks