beebs

Im sure a Serval build will be one damn nice engine setup with about 80hp or so. Without much actual seat time from anyone yet, I wonder how close the performance will be to a strong 4-mill agg dune port stk cylinder setup from any of the site sponsers? I have one built by HJR and it is incredible mid to top with as much bottom end as you would expect from a 2-stroke like that. Thinking that it would be enough power to keep me satisfied, the only problem now is that I'm left wanting more as the power is so addicting. When a person talks about duning and lots of dragging I wonder if a properly built and setup Cub cylinder would be a better choice? It will be my next step. Something to think about when making your decision.

Thanks for the clarification Mopar1 and Gotta-gofast. Seems like alot of information needs to work together to decide correct octane requirements.

Sorry, what other method you ask? Instead of a compression gauge like was said, you can use how tight the squish is or cauculate your head volume. Both those mothods I think would be more accurate than the compression gauge. Its all based on compression and just diff ways to determin it. Compression and timing are to only 2 things you base octane requirements on. Someone correct me if i'm wrong. Tks.

The higher the compression the more octane you need, and I think 160 is normally the cut off for pump fuel. Your builder would give you the info on what fuel you need to run, or will build your motor to what fuel you plan on using. As for the other comment I think it was talking about the squish for determining the octane requirement (tighter squish=higher compression=more octane).

I raced a friends 450 last summer. Once with a rolling start on a gravel road and then again from a dead stop on pavement. It was kinda close on the gravel road because of traction, like was said, but I still stayed ahead of him and steadly pulled away. On the pavement, not close at all, with the banshee easily pulling away hard. The bike was mostly stock but he could ride good. My banshee has a 4-mill HJR motor with shearer's and 35mm carbs. You shouldnt have a problem.

Around $84 and comes with steel plates, friction plates, and springs. I run the same with a little more motor. Works well.

If you're getting the motor work done at HJR just get the clutch kit Kevin sells. It will hold no problem and you might as well go with a complete clutch kit to go with the fresh motor.

I posted a while back and got alot of good idea's of what ppl used. I ended up using oven cleaner and a heat gun. I would heat the area up good and hot then apply the oven cleaner, let it sit then wipe it off with a rag. Would'nt come off right away but after a few cycles of heat and cleaner it would peal right off.

Thanks thats exactly what I wanted to know, and ya the motor will require straight 110

So VP-110 and VP C-12 would be classed as 110 race fuels?

I read alot about using 110 race gas, meaning it has 110 octane correct? I'm looking for a good 110 race gas and I can get VP-110 or VP-C12 in my area. I looked at the .vpracingfuels. web site and they rate the 110@ 107 "motor octane" and the C-12@ 108 "motor octane". I searched further and it looks like there are a couple different ways they rate fuels, motor octane and pump octane. So the 110 is 107 motor octane and 110 pump octane:(apparently the average of two diff ratings) and C-12 is 108 motor octane and 112 pump octane. My question is are these your typical 110 race fuels or equivilant, everyone talks about?

Thanks for the replys guys. By the looks of it... very well worth it. Going this far already I guess might as well go all the way.

I did a search but never come up with much. I wanted to know with you guys that have tried both, if it is worth the extra cash to drag port the cub cydr or just a cleanup port? I know every bit counts but is it worth it? Thanks.

Thanks alot for the idea's

I was thinhing that too. Maby I can get it good and hot with the heat gun then use the steel wool.

Went out for a quick rip yesterday without thinking and melted my nylon track pants to my shiny shearer pipes. Anyone have any ideas on how to get that crap off? Its on there like cement.

I run a 4-mill stock cylinder that HJR built. He set me up with a complete motor package top to bottom. I was scared I should have went with a cub thinking the power might not be enough. Spent alot of time dialing it in and she rips. I run the FAST clutch kit and it holds out for a bit but starts to fade after a while of hard riding. Are toomey springs stiffer than mine? My clutch is also new with cables and easy pull. Pull is firm but not to hard at all. If I have to I will run a lockup but most of what I read says I shouldn't have to? The power is so addicting I wish I had a cub to compair it to. Best quad I have to go against is a fairly built raptor with all the bolt on's and barker pipes.

I'm having problems with my clutch slipping. I have one of the best clutch kits in but my motor is a little to much and I'm trying to avoid a lockup. Has anyone tried the RZD Superduty clutch springs? They say good for high h.p. motors over 100h.p.???

1800' also I have HJR dune port 4mill and shearers on pump gas. So not all the same but none the less I also had problems at 1/4 throttle. It was lean like yours and I could fix it with the needle but then it was way rich in the mid when the miss was gone. So I went up a couple sizes on the pilot then it idled good and the miss was gone. Put the needle back in the middle and the mid was crisp again. Just write down the combo's you try and what it does. When you look back at it that will help you deciding what to try.

I have a setup that is fairly close to yours. My 35's are set at pilot=52, air @ 2 turn's out, needle= CEL middle clip, main= 158. I also had a 48 in and I had a dead spot just before 1/4 throttle.

Ya I think you are right. Thanks for the help man.

Thanks. So could the gold springs be the ones that I got with the FAST clutch kit? Are the F.A.S.T heavy duty clutch spprings gold in color? If they are that makes sence why the clutch is slipping with the black ones in.

Can anyone tell me if the stock clutch springs are gold in color or if the gold is some heavy duty spring. I have the fast clutch kit and I got them mixed around before I put them in. The ones I put in are black. When I bought the bike I think it might of had a upgraded clutch in it but not 100% sure. And with the black ones in, it started to fade after a bunch of passes. ???

Got around to do some adjusting and yes I will need the longer adjusters. I got the slides to fully open but im to the very end of the threads on the carb top and scared they might strip out. Thank's for the input guy's.

I can't remember which throttle cable it was. HJR set me up so I know it is right. I got ahold of him last night and he told me where I went wrong. I should'nt have used the thumb throttle to do all the adjusting and instead used the carb tops to take up most of the cable slack then use the throttle adjuster for the rest. Havent put it together yet but it makes sense. Not even sure why I checked but im glad I did.