beebs

When I installed them on the engine I only used the thumb throttle adjuster and left the carb cap adjuster's all the way in, to take the slack out of the cable. When I hold the throttle wide open the slides only open to about the bottom of the slide cut away with the back of the slide hanging down in the carb airway. I don't think this is right but before I start adjusting thing's I wanted to ask how far they actually are suppose to go up? The whole slide should be up and out of the airway, correct?? And to get the slide's to lift higher I have to use the carb cap adjuster and back off on the throttle one?

Thank's for the input guy's. The biggest problem with mine was I have a AC rear grab bar and it's alot thicker than the stock one where it mount's to the frame. That along with the bracket I was using was pushing the silencer's way out and causing the pipe's to hit the frame but clear the carb by lot's. I needed the silencer's to move back in a bit so I ended up making some new hanger's out of alum-, then I could get thing's right where I wanted. So everything fit's now with no touching anywhere and still lot's of room for the left carb and choke (35pwk). Putting the silencer's in the right place made a world of difference, and only needed one shim to clear the head. The new bracket's are 1/8 thick and the bolt holes are 1" apart c to c.

Sound's like most of the shearer pipe's run close to the carb and the head on the left side. Mine seem to be the opposite. It clear's the head with one small shim and lot's of room for the carb but both pipe's touch the frame on each side. Maby my problem is at the silencer. How do you guy's connect them? I used the same setup as my t-5's that uses the little hanger's. Almost seem's like they are pulling out too much. Can the silencer's be connected without the hanger's?

Mine clear the carb's good but touch the frame on each side just after the carb's.

Installed some SB inframe's today and holy tight fit on the frame just passed the carb's. I searched this topic before so I had an idea of what I was going to run into. Lot's of room for the pod's but the pipe's touch the frame just after the carb and very little room to clear the head (left side)so it can't be shimed out any further than I have it. I cut two small peices of heater hose and used a heavy zip tie to pull the pipe's together a bit just so they don't touch the frame. Very little pressure to pull them together but not sure how it will last. Is there any trick's to get them to clear or just alot of messing around?

Don't think I could ever get to like pulling two 35's with the way they are. lol

Just to be clear, those lighter springs from Fast will work on the PWK 35 carb's?

Thank's for all the input guy's.

Did a search and could'nt find anything. Do these carb's have a real heavy pull? They are alot bigger than stock so im assuming this is normal. The spring's look like they are sitting down in the slide correct but damn the throttle is heavy. I also have a new cable on and lubed up. If this is how they are, is there anything to improve this to make it lighter or do I just have to suck it up lol.

I live in alberta and might have some parts you might like. Here is the list. -toomey T-5 pipes complete: $350 -stock carbs with pods, outer ware's and throttle cable: $100 -front dg bumper: $40 -rear ac 6-pack grab bar: $50 -clutch lever complete with cable and park break cable: $40

Thank's guys. Just putting a fresh 4 mill in and that stumped me because the last owner must not have known that and just run a seperate vent line from the back of the motor down behind the motor. The one off the other end of the tee was run nowhere.

The breather hose that comes from the clutch cover goes up and connects to a tee fitting. From there it goes up by the handle bar's loops around and rest's there for the vent. Now if you go back to the tee and follow it the other way down to the back of the motor, can someone tell me where that end connect's to. Can't seem to find the hookup. Tks.

Thanks for the input. Can't really go wrong for the price.

Has anyone seen or used these hoses or radiator's? Seen them on e-bay for about half the price as cv4 hoses. The rad was well priced also. They sell under the name Asi performance. Please let me know if anyone has tried them. Thank's.

Those R-Ballance tires look like they hook up real good. Big spacing between them too. Might have to try them since I can't find the original Knarly. Need a good tire that will hookup on my new 4-mill from Kevin....can't wait to try it.

Has anyone tried the new razor ballance tire yet. The lugs look like they are spaced out lots, maby they would hookup good. . .

Hey guys I looked on kenda's web site and the knarly they show there don't look the same as the one's in the pic on the quad with the cut knarly's in the post's here. Anyone know if kenda changed them?

It has t-5s, boysen reed's, +4 timing, and now pods. No porting stock bore stock head. I bought it last summer and ran it with all same mods but with stock airbox. I don't know why they were using a 20 pilot. Never heard of one that small. I'm at 1800 ft above sea level. How much will going to pods affect everything. I'm thinking lot's. I was at 20 pilot, 280 main before. All I did was up the main's to 300's. Think I need 320 main 30 pilot like you say. And fine tune with air screw. What you think?

High guys. Just cleaned my carbs and put foam pods and outerwares on. Im running T-5, reeds, +4 timing and now the pods, not ported. 1800ft above and 25 degree c. It run not bad with airbox on but could have been better. It had 280 mains must be toomey needle but the odd thing was the piolet. It had a number 20 in the carbs. I never heard of one that small. I went to 300 main and air screw 1/2 turn out. Did a short run and yes it was way to lean. Gona go 320 main and 27.5 piolet. Has anyone seen a piolet that small or are there some piolets marked differently, and do you think 27.5 is enought with pods? Thanks

I did a search on this and found lots of usefull info. I know to just cut everything out but there are some posts that say to splice back together some of the connections and some say not to. Mostly on the one that comes out of the throttle. Do i splice it or any others back together or not. I bought my shee used and the only thing done to the tors was the wire coming out of the throttle was cut and spliced back together. I think they all can just be cut and taped up with no splicing back together. Am I correct? TKS

I just ordered some pods too. How many sizes on the mains you guys go up? 1 or 2?

New to here but not new to engines, that green sludge is most likely bad gas. Had it lots in our sleds after the summer. Not anything to do with the oil. Run ams oil 40:1 and 100:1 never a failer for 20 years riding.

Anyone. I just need to know if I can just unplug the wire going into the clutch perch because i'm putting a easypull perch on and eliminating the e-brake cable.

K thanks. So what is that wire for and can I just unplug it? I have a new perch to put on and need to get rid of it.