dco3100

CANDY RED!! :cool: would go great with your black fenders and red decals. Black wayyy too plain

Im pretty sure my jetting is dead on 155 main, 50 pilot. On the dyno the guy said the only thing I can maybe improve is by dropping the needle 1 clip to lean it out a bit but other than that it was perfect. I guess im jus fiending for some low end but dont wanna loose too much top, kinda asking for a miracle I think ill try to buy just the adapter plates and use one of my 35s on the setup, goto the dyno and see how it turns out. If it drops too much, jus switch back and be out only the cost of the plate, filter, and throttle cable...

What kind of mods do you have? And im pretty sure it wont make quite as much as the duals, but this is my play bike so im really just looking for low end, easy tuning, just not a big drop in hp. And how does it handle in low end compared to a dual setup?

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The bike in question is the 2000 in my sig, I have dual 35pwks now and its a pain in the ass to tune and sync both carbs everytime I do a mod! So I was thinking about the 2 into 1 carb setup, I could use the better low end power it supposedly makes. The only thing im concerned about is the "claimed" top end loss this setup has. I just came back from the dyno this weekend and I put down 60 horses, 42lbs of Torq, 5th gear pull with a great, steady curve :cool: . I mean I can sacrifice 1-3 horses if my low end improves. And im guessing a 38 pwk would be a good single carb for my mods. I know its alot of info, just lookin for opinions...

Looking for a set of 12" front spindle mount drag wheels with street tires. I havent really found a design I liked yet, pics please!. Willing to pay!

K cool, thanks. Thats another question I have, is their a difference between a billet timing plate and a painted one, besides appearance and maybe a little weight??

anyone??

I just scooped up an 04 shee but the guy doesnt know what kinda mods its got. Im checkin it out and it has keihin carbs, pod k&ns, vforce reeds, cool head, pro circuit exhaust, EBC clutch, modded shift star, and a few other small things. I have only one question, when you take off the stator side cover, can you tell if theres an adjustable timing plate without taking off the flywheel?? (my cousin striped the shit out of my puller trying to use an impact wrench )

lmao shogs I was thinkin the same thing

Nahh, u can make claims all u want, like I said before "trying to see quicker way to determine stroke w/o opening cases," someone doesnt listen. And from your sig, it sounds like u got u a bisquit, so I wouldnt take advice from you anyway

Ill try that volfan, thanks. And ill be posting pics of the 00 and current progress of the 09 sometime this week

No you dont hate the fact that I dont know EVERY shortcut, your just jealous as hell and you wish you had that monster. And by the way, I do know my fair share, but I havent had my shees for 10 yrs like some ppl on here and I know opening the cases would definately tell me what I have, but I wanted to know a quicker, easier way just like the sandrage said, if the piston clears the cyl its a stroker, BIG HELP! Ill be pullin off the head soon

anyone??

Me and a buddy were just racing, I was on my 2000 shee in my sig and my buddy was on his 501cc YFZ big bore with inframe drag pipe, +6 swinger, cams, ported, the works and from the jump we were neck and neck, when I shift to 5th is when I start pulling away, end of the race hes at my rear tire(300-500ft, give or take) :cool: . I know I shouldnt be beating him with my stock stroke! Or at least I think its stock. The guy I bought the bike from didnt know too much about bikes and he bought it from a guy in atlanta who never mentioned anything about a oversized crank. I just inspected it and I dont see any spacer plates beneath the cylinders so I pretty much ruled out a longrod 4mil, but how would I be able to tell what size I have??

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Ive heard of some getting well into the 150s some 160, what makes that big of a difference to gain so much more hp. :shrug: I know porting can only go so far

race gas

Im currently building a 611 DM Cheetah, 78bore 10mil stroke, roughly how many horses should I put out?

Ive been there, sucks I had a set of FMF Fattys that leaked like a fountain. I tried everything to cover it, plug it etc, nothing really worked. And as for putting stock back on... You will regret the time you spent on the switch. You probably wont even want to ride it b/c of the power loss....

As far as I know, you can powdercoat anything thats metal, without any rubber parts or lubricant. If there is rubber or lubricants in the part it will have to be removed. For example, I just got my rear brake caliper coated and all the rubber seals and brake fluid had to be completely free from the assembly. The reason being is because after they spray the powder on the part, it has to get baked in an oven at 400 degrees, so anything unable to withstand that kind of temperature must be removed. You can coat anything from your brake pedal, shifter, a-arms(for these you have to remove the rubber boots on the balljoints), swingarm, etc. Pretty much anything you think will look nice with a glistening mettalic color :cool:

What kinda mods you got and what kinda paddles? Cause ive seen some ppl run 12 paddle extremes on a stock banshee wayyyyyyy too much paddle

Just be careful with those new bolt kits. On the bolts that pass through and through with the nut on the end (ex. the rear linkage carrier, front and rear shock bolts, etc);if you dont use some type of lubricant or screw on the nut on properly it will sieze up in mid thread and it'll be impossible to unscrew, you'd have to cut it off (and in the process hope u dont touch your fresh powdercoat with that grinder ). Tends to happen with the new locknuts with the rubber on the end, even happened on some without the rubber. Just be careful with them and remember, you get what you pay for...

More on the paddles please!! :shrug: