Justintoxicated

I think you could probably find lots of used stock parts on ebay for a good price, but a new engine will be expensive if it needs a whole new one... I saw a rollign chasis on ebay a while back for $600, so thats probably about right. New plastics $200-500, Good motor Probably $800-1200 if your lucky, a-arms stock Not too bad aftermarket $1000 with shocks probably..Axel couple hundread, and theres always little things that nickle and dime ya new chain and sprockets probably $140...Chain roller setup? $80 Sounds like a project.

the K&N should come with the clamp, if not you can probably get a large hose clamp for cheap at home depot.

I second that exactly. He does not have very good pics of the intakes. And I don't beleive in Stages of porting, which to me indicates the amount of shavings they take off, instead of where they take them off from. Save up a little more and send them to Jim. The work dosetn look bad, its just that you can only port them once, so you want it done to your riding style the first time. Also, if you talk to Jim and want pics I can show you mine

ahh rgr that, I think im going to try that white lightning on my chain it works great for keeping wear down on everything I have used it for and it should do a proper if not better job of sealing the O-rings than the maxima wax im using, Im just wondering about it's fling factor since ATV chains spin much faster and harder than mountain bikes, but im still guessing it will be better than the wax.

Im not saying it won't sound better than what you had, just that components really are not made to be driven off the deck. you need something with a crossover such as an amp to power them correctly, The difference is night and day. Also how do you know the amp in the store was set up properly to run the mids and tweets? usualy its just an amp setup to power anything. And of course 1/2 the guys at thos eplaces don't understand Highpass and Lowpass filtering correctly or how to adjust the system anyways. Components should have no deep bass sent to them! And since your using the deck there is no way to properly filter it out (someones if you drive the sub off an independent pre-out you can adjsut it but still no comparison to an amp with a crossover)just mid and highs(highs only for the tweets thats what the crosover they gave you does; seperates mid and high) all the rest should come from the woofer. Just my 2 cents, Im not talking jsut volume but also for clarity. Otherwise it indicates that the speakers do not need to be components and you coulda saved money and gone cheaper. Just my 2cents, get an amp with a high pass filter in the future and you will be much happier. You can run the 10 gauge wire youself its easy. I ran a setup off the deck for a while, and after letting the place hookup amps and blowing 3 sets of my speakers cause they sold me an improper amp; I set it up myself and its WAY WAY WAY better. More difference than just upgrading to the components themselves. Also did you check to make sure the components will fit in your doors? I had to go with kenwood excellons because my doors were too narrow to fit anything other than mids that used neobendium magnets. You asked for advice so I hope this helps.

I was looking at the Skat-Track Desert Storms..>They were very interesting for a medium between hard and soft pack...I want a set myself for some of the places I ride. www.rockymountainatv.com has them in stock take a look, they are new this year but were very interesting to me

its heat resistant semi-clear tubing. often used to water cool computers etc.

Im tired of paying out the ass for lighted whips so the next one im going to make myself with a 1 watt LED on the top that should shoot out a beam like a fucking mag light. it will be a bit more expensive than it would normally cost to make your own, but still cheaper than buying one, but I already have a AC->DC->StabalizePower->Current limiting circuit made and LED's are the way to go....Or I could just power it off a NIMH battery pack for about 10 hours, and I gaurantee it will be bright as shit. (treat 1 watt LED's as a class 2 laser lol)

you just got 3 screws in your knee? Damn how did you do that? When im sick or injured and when I had the bones in my toes fused together (not last summer but before) I was on so much pain killers I coulden't do shit. So I rented a bunch of X-box games But as soon as I could sit up again it was back to Desert Combat on the PC...That game will never die! Nothing like cruzing dune buggys around with machine guns on the top, or parachuting out of a plane or getting into an M1A and killing some Iraqies...Especialy when you can't even walk...

put them on a banshee? Some people can't help being big, they can eat like 1 potato chip a day and gain weight.

yea I know. I mean THey both perform the same, at one point I was running one of each in my cylinders and there was still no difference.. I would however like to find out what the difference is between the Brass threaded NGK's and the aluminum threaded NGK's I hear the brass colored ones don't fowl as easy, but again I have run one of each without noticing a difference?

Anyone here underlight their banshee? I was using some strobes for a while, they looked trick but the circuit boxes didn't hold up too great and I got tired of buying new ones. I heard Neons suck if you ride Hard and they were mroe expensive and breakalble than strobes. I have on order some 3 watt LED's 2 of them in blue. they are 30 lumens each. I was thinking that these would work great. But it will be a while before I get them running with the holiday season so near. Just wanted to see some pics and comments from others underlighting their shees. UPDATED PICS!

Its been slammed and fallen on its face while I was cleaning it. Not sure about the whoops, but I might find out because if it gives me any more problems Im going to toss it down oldsmobile. On the other hand, I don't see the radiatior cover or tank plastics taking much of a beating either. But I normally don't ride with my knees on them... Take pics too, your write up will be a great post.

If I can go my girl will be going with me, and we will have to share the shee...But she loves to ride too so I don't think it would be smart to not bring her Tents are much warmer with 2.

1) Replace the stock air filter with a K&N or UNI, buy a new adapter plate or modify the stock one to function like an aftermarket as others have stated. I also removed my lid to flow better. Don't even ride hard untill you do this. 2) Pipes & Tires (depending on your needs, (i.e. For sand paddles are more important than pipes) 3)For me it was lights and cooler rack (rack debatable but I wanted to bring some beers and water with me), I like to ride at night and the stock lights are huge POSs. At this point you will have spent $1000 4) modified stator for more lights lol and then you can do suspension (another $1200 or so) or get porting and what not. After its too slow for ya and you know how to ride it well. TORS has never given me any real problems other than being in the way when i jet, Most of the problems I thought were TORS ended up being parking brake, you can remove the parking brake, get a block off where it attaches near the axle and replace the stock junk clutch lever, I never knew how bad it sucked untill I bought a new one. but these are little things compaired to air filter and pipes and tires.

Yea you should be fine then, Man im glad they screw up and keep giving me the green stickers

same here

Whats wrong with a Red sticker this time of year?

yea but to make the 2 pieces into one I would think bondo would be the easiest way to do it...Works on the plastic on the computer case bezels I modify to create perfectly smooth ducts etc... No flexability, but for that piece (Fuel tank cover and radiator cover) why wouldnet it work? I made a duct like this out bondo

The one I was talking about is called windows movie maker2, not visual studio ..Oops...Adobe is the best but its not free either and I found it was not able to work with the AVI formats from my digital, but movie maker did....Weird... macs are slightly faster at this but still cost 3x as much to do everything else.

I think you will need a 6000MHZ or greater and at least a couple terrabytes of space, 3 gigs of ram and a $100,000 camcorder. Microsoft Visual Studio 2 is decent, for free software. Way better than version 1 anyhow.

couldnet you just do that with bondo?

I was out riding with a 450 and its not faster in the dunes at all. I didn't see one 450 take a banshee up the hill either. Need more time to say for sure, but they were out there and they were not beating banshees up test.

thats cool man, I was just more thinking about a place to go to the bathroom, especialy if my GF comes. You guys are getting me worried.

im a bit skeptical, WD-40 isnt a real lubercant, its more of a cleaner it only lubercates things before it evaporates. I don't see how it would protect O-rings from weather or drying outg? I was thinking about trying some stuff called White lightning. Anyone heard of it? its designed for bicycle. races, a bit more expensive than chain wax though. I use it on the drive cups and dogbones on my Nitro RC car and it has virtualy stopped all wear and tear and the drive cups, its a special kind of no fling wax mixed with other things. I'm not sure its ment for the high speeds of ATV chains though. Its a little more expensive, but it also has some kinda chemical property that actualy pushes dirt and sand out of cranks and tight places, it works on my RC great and it really does stop TONS of wear, even when dirt and crap gets pluged up in the drive cups. Think it might work on an ATV chain?