Justintoxicated

I dunno I switched form water wetter to engine ice, and I have had good results. On the bottle engine ice clamis to cool better than water wetter + coolant. You could also add water wetter to the engine ice, but the engince ice is supposed to work better already. Engine ice is compleatly different than Purple Ice, as engine ice is non toxic. Water wetter is like the most toxic shit in your banshee lol. I have been having good results with the engine ice except that it keeps shooting out my pipes due to a leak lol. Where did you see test results of water wetter + 50/50 coolant compared to engine ice? I'd like to see. My experience with water wetter was decent too, but I think i prefer the Engine Ice.. I hear koolaid is also good shit, it claims to be better than engine ice, but when tested I heard they were about the same?

thanks this is the same for the smaller taillight as the larger one? most banshees I see have the smaller one, even older than mine... Anyone know how much the brake light kit is? Can I get the kit without the light? Thanks.

The prototype is compleate however the circuit is not looking as efficient as expected. It appears at full power it will be sucking up roughly 17 watts (both blue and red), due to the components used, anything that is not needed by the LEDs is displaced by my regulator, meaning the LEDs can be at full brightness using less power, but when the bike is reved the extra power the LEDs do not need is disipated as heat. for example at full power the 2 blue LEDs use up about 6-7 watts, but not all of the power is needed that the circuit uses so 5 watts is disipated as heat in my circuit. The bright side is I could add another 3 watt LED, meaning the 3 LEDs would take up around 10 watts, and then only roughly 2 watts would be disipated by the circuit. So the circuit is not very efficient but drives the LEDs PERFECT.... I ran the LEDs at 30% power and they still retained 60-70% brightness, So I decided to not run them at fill power. Im not going to run them at 30% either but around 70-80 would be a good compromise. So now im thinking about going 3 Reds for the taillight and Possibly 3 blues, or lowering the power I run the blues at to about 70-80% (Still wicked bright, since the Voltage to Brightness Ratio is NOT linear) Running these extra lights the circuit will still use about 17 watts, It's jsut that it will use more watts for lighting, vs heat that could melt the project box... If I make these for others, I can customize it somewhat to how you would want it, different colors are different specs watts etc... This also means that the circuit will not be wasting as much extra watts untill the bike is revved up to past the sum of the voltage of the LEDs. What does all this mean? It means That if you need a more efficient lighting I CAN build it it also means that using certain colors such as red will use up alot less juice (about 8 watts vs 17-18! It also means I can adjust the brightness of the Circuit for you power consumption needs

Are the differen't taillights different watts? I have the bulkey one not the more streamlnie one, and im wondering how many watts it is. Info helps for LED project. 5? 10? 15? Also how many votls is the shee supposed to put out? 12 right? I have sceen my peak 14.4, but consistantly it should be right around 12 correct?

my banshee will not idle at all with the choke out....But it idles all day long as soon as I push it in.. I hear this means I'm jetted correctly. Since the choke is jsut to get it started anyways.

ok SDD I'll call you tonight. When I put the head back on I rotated the domes, that way I would know something is up if the other side started to do the same thing...Ill be sure to check all those things when we get to it also.

its supposed to, but I would not risk it, you would also want to use distilled watter with it..I would just add it with your coolant though...It does not have the anti freeze protection that coolant does either. If its just for a race or something it should be fine with just water, but I would not want to risk the long term affects it may have

but but if I left in the morning I would not make it untill like 1/2 through saterday, then I have to leave a little after 2pm on sunday... I can never wake up early, as in before 4 am....Something wrong with me I guess...Ill talk to the women and find out for sure, but like I said, IF I can go, I really want to though.

you have stock pipes on your banshee and NOS? WTF!

in case I can go, how late will you guys be up friday night? I can't leave untill 8 or 9 and its a 5 hours drive. Pluse I have never been there before.

I didn't use gobs of grease or anything, but I made sure all the rings had a smoothed down coat to fill in the sides of the o-rings to make sure they would stick, everything seemed to line up perfectly on this second install (slided the dome a bit; maybe 1 cm the fist time to get it to line up, which was obviously caused the pinched o-ring) so no sliding of any parts this time, I got the head on and it seemed to have lined up perfectly and laid flat, but again this is only my second time doing this and the first time I did pinch a ring...Im loosing all confidence in myself at this point. I torqued in the right patteren in increments of 3-4 foot pounds, untill they were all torqued at 20... I'll find out soon enough, I think the shee would seriously run shitty with the stock head, I had some loss of bottem end with 20cc domes after the 12-port, the compression was only 148 after the rings seated with 20cc, plus when I removed the stock head there was a slight casting flaw on the dome. (I thought detonation or something broke off and hit it, but nope, definately a casting flaw! (THANKS YAMAHA!), I don't think the flaw ever hurt anything, but no sense in putting the stock head on... Oh yea, and I didn't dent, drop, crack, or scratch the head or anything like that either..So I think there is a good chance I screwed up somehow, or else it is leaking someplace else. What would pressurize the water pump to shoot coolant onto the pipe so quickly?

if it was detonation woulden't that be happeneing, more than likely, in both cylinders?

Dlnoss hopefully I'll let you know soon, SDD says the leak down tester is all ready Thanks for the offer. I'm not blaming any domes at this point, Im also new to installing heads, although it did seem to be a rather easy and painless process, maybe I screwed up..But it seems odd to me. Everything looked sealed up nicely, and I looked at the left dome from the exhaust port and didn't notice anything leaking. (Took pipe off). Need to get it running soon for that lighting pic-video some of you want to see BTW thanks for making the post and offering help banshee370

its an Older Canon G1, the G4&G5 even the G2 is much nicer, but I know how to work this baby after the few years I have owned it...the A70 is also a nice cam if your in the market.

ok, ok, after the PSU warmed up it started to work...Unfortunately i had already unmounted the lights...But I did manage to take these. Attempt to take a pic up close, came out better than expected Here they are lighting up my whole room, more than enough to light up under my banshee as I said, but here is the proof. Dunno why this one came out purple, the lights are still blue, and the LEd's on the computer are green like they are supposed to be...Like I said this color blue is close to the UV spectrum, so I guess it does strange thigns to my camera, and things that are neon react with it.

My dying PSU won't power the blue LED's and it buzzes just off the REDs...Actually the PSU was assumed dead but it's lighting up my fishtank ok heh... Anyways Im trying to hotwire an old AT PSU but its not looking good, I think I may have fried it. If only the banshee would just run Id have pics already

int he case where your staying on pump gas I do not thik there will a great big difference in T5's vs T6's. They were probably assuming you were raising your compression. Ill let someone else answer the timing question, but I think it should only be done after pipes and filter, but I could be wrong.

Duncan racing did your crank? They told me they would not do mine unless THEY were the ones to put my case back together...I already had it out of the case.. Know how much they told me? $500! (IF I pulled the motor from the bike firt, otherwise it would be even more!) they also told me its impossible to make 70HP on a stock banshee engine, because they are THE number one best at everything including porting and if they can't do it no1 can) They sure do seem sure of themselves... im not kidding either...the other shops I wanted to get it done were around 130-150 after I had split the case..I could have got it done cheaper online than $90, but then it costs $$$ in order to ship it so I guess it balanced out. Ended up dropping it off at SamCo..

heh, alright well I think SDD is going to help me figure this out once he compleats a leak down tester . Ever since I put the new domes in my NOSS cooling head I have been spitting coolant out the pipes and it also spits out all over my pipes. I pulled the head and drove to yuma (from gordons)to replace a pinched O-ring the first time and they were closed untill monday so that ruined my trip..I had some spares 9at home) DLNOSS sent me so I replaced a pinched O-ring with those.. I was extra super careful when I re-installed the head and I made sure to use LOTS of grease this time and that they were all seated properly as I put the head together...Next trip to glamis I was only there friday night and ended up spending the rest of the time at superstition so my GF could ride her parents dirtbikes...TO make things worse My cooler opened up and I lost 1/2 my 12 pack of newcastle because I flipped the trailer around too fast since I was in a pissy mood... anyways, It is still leaking coolant, even after I blew what was in the crank and what not out. Now when I start up the bike, big puffs of white smoke out the pipes followed by a spray of coolant, soon there after or sometimes almost right away it starts spitting coolant out all over my pipes through the overflow (even if the bike is not that hot). What can I say?

damnit I WAS eating...

I love my FMF pipes, but now that im ported I want CPI's...the Fattys will work fine untill you get porting, probably even better. If your talkign about different riding than dune riding CPI's may be good with a stock engine too, but since you have them now jsut keep them and save for when you get porting, never know something new might come out!

Go with CPI's and get porting later, you will eventually want it. I wish I had CPI's but Fattys arent too bad ported...I saw a dyno a while back and T6's were way behind with a ported shee, im not sure why addding a new head would make a difference to change from T6's to T5's either...what size domes are you going to be using with the NOSS head? Also make sure you get a new air filter and mod/remove the airbox lid or you won't see as much difference as you think! FMF's wre slightly ahead of the T5's, shearer and CPI's were int he lead, but I liked the results from the CPI's better. You can also advance your timing a few degrees to add a couple horsepower throughout the powerband AFTER you get your pipes and air filter.

on the bottem of the left piston rod you can see a slight space, thats all it takes and your crank is toast. The stock crank cannot be rebuilt either right? I know its so $$ to replace any parts you might as well buy a new one anyways. Mine was barley in tolerance when I had it built with the same mods you have wicked, only my timing was not even advanced..Only I have FMFs and different paddles. You might as well build a stroker now, since your replacing the crank anyways

maybe I should ditch my Cooler rack....

Im planning to be there, IF I can get to the bottem of this coolant gusing out on the pipes and shooting out the pipes problem...Otherwise maybe next year.