Justintoxicated

claim the insurance..it only takes about 4 months to get it....

Don't run castor Or at least mix it 40/1 that is what most recomend, and it will lean you out a bit, might have to change your jetting some.

I thought you didn't want to polish the inside of the cages too shiny???

the other problem is I need it to mount using the stock handlebar mount, I have the handlebar mount Illuminators for headlights and they ARE the top part of the mount. I was going to put the Anti Vibration inserts into X5's You can see the ones I'm talking about here http://www.rockymountainatv.com/wc.dll?wwr...+Bar+Inserts~~~ THey do not fit Pro Tapers. Can't afford the steering stabalizer right now for sure.

I do it every 10,000 because its free hehe

Thats the thing though. I make billet knobs for about 5-6 different transfer cases, transmissions and wenches, and billet fire extinguisher holders too, most of which get anodized, then the shift pattern gets put into them. Its already rough on shit. What is that type of anodizing you're talking about? Is it whats sometimes called "hard anodizing"?? Like what they do to clutch baskets? yep Hard Anodizing 3, I think it comes in a few different colors and holds up very well. Gotta mask off areas that would need to be threaded etc though

I can't even go to coalfest and I think I want one

Stan you should look into getting HA3 Anno that stuff is tuff! Jus tmake sure you don't have to do any machining after you annodize HA3 or you will wear your machines out

cool head and suspension and TORS removal

yea but he is removing the material equaly around the flywheel on a lathe so it should be balanced. So if done right and On a lathe it shoudl nto be an issue! I don't think he is removing the balancing holes...

Mine is unpredictable...Sometimes after a ride epecialy in cold wether I will have to kick it 5-6 times... After letting it sit for abotu a month then washing it, I fergot to pull the choke out and it started on the first kick anyways....lol So with mine I never know but usualy its the 1st,2nd or 3rd kick

yea it sounds like the head was not threaded properly or it was overtightened and stripped. I'm a little lost as to how the entire head would fly off from having a bent crank? Wouldnet you have damage on the head besides the threads?

yea a lathe would definately keep it balanced when done properly...

yea maybe not coolant leak or detonation, I was jsut listing things off the top of my head. something was definately not right. What kind of piston was it?

A switch would only add about $5 to the cost more than likely It woudl probably go behind the taillight, of course you could always buy no switch and add one yourself too. Still have to call this guy up, just got a job interview today.

Ill do whatever it takes I have some problems with vibration and my arms falling asleep, especialy when trying to sleep after riding..So it would be worth the $44 if they actualy do something.

I was thinking about trying these but for $44 I was wondering how well they work? Sometimes vibration bugs the carpul tunnel..or what not...

Damn well, I don't have the carbs yet....Anyone know? they are 33mm PWKs

so where can I get K&N Clamp ons for 33mm carbs? I'm looking in the rocky mountain catalog but it says stock carbs only...

gosh, I hope it does not roll his babies down the hill like he babied his banshee? Looks like the he rolled it tweaked the fram and want to sell it. or maybe it was pulled down the hill at $130MPH

wow thats compleatly the opposite from my experience...Yamalube is ok, but there ARE better oils, amsoil, MC1, even Castor is better than yamalube in a high rev engine... From what I have sceen non-synthetics seem to seperate more, and leave more deposits, namely castor...After I mix MC1 (full synthetic) it seems to stay pretty mixed in, of course I always mix the gas and oil up before riding anyways..SDD's pistons were WAY cleaner from running MC1 for 5 years than mine were from running yamalube for 4, and also much cleaner than before I switched off castor after a couple rides.... Yamalube is ok though I use it for break-in oil but I doubt I will use it everyday in the future.

The end of the plgus look like you may have been lean but you need to look inside at the porclin and see if there is a ring at the bottem. the tops look lean although they are not the best indicator. They look like a charred grey...But again can't really tell...But if it is overheating you either have an air leak or your too lean...Perhaps the head gasket had a leak in it and was pushing air into the collant and making it boil over onto the pipe? Check the head to make sure it is level COMPLEATLY...I believe you can use fine sand paper and a pice of glass to test. How much compression were you running (look like a milled head? if so how much is it milled?) Maybe you were haivng detonation? Is your timing advanced? Your going to have to split the cases again to clean out the crank case and hopefully you did not damage your new crank! If you were using forged pistons were you sure to let it idle untill warm before riding? If you had an air leak, or coolant leak (small coolant leak let coolant into the cylinders etc) this could probably cause that. (washes lubercation away). Or it could be a combination of these things. You put the C lip on the pin that holds the piston on right? (Dumb question but my friend fergot this once) Or it could possibly just be faulty pistons I think your going to need to have the topend re-done, get a new head, and split your cases to clean the crank case. You can get a head pretty cheap, I have a compleatly stock one if your interested, or it would be a good time to get a Cool Head. Damn man I'm sorry your having all this bad luck.

hey boon, how wel,l does the lightened flywheel work on the hills? Sand hills that is? What about riding double?

Stan that shit looks good!

I have Jim's 12 port also and i'm running a 32.5 pilot and I can idle All day and all night...So long as the choke is not pulled...now if only I could get the bike to run at WOT I would feel young again I have tried 340-380 mains and toomy needles in various positions with no luck (exact same problem)...but I can idle all damn day with 32.5s I think you need larger Pilots...Of course I went the new carb-air filter-intake-reed route can'twait to see if I can finaly go WOT again...