qcklys

Any idea, anyone?

Okay here's my problem, my shee has been sitting outside since like 2.5-3 month waiting for suspension parts , now that i installed everything back i thought it was a good time to change jet (since its now cold out here maybe -10 degree celsius) so i changed my jet and notice the carb were way out of sync, so while im at it I synced the carb, dont have the tool so i go by the mark and by touch for the slide, now everything looks okay, slide move at the exact same time, ping mark is right in the window where it should be at full open throttle. So i tried to start it, it start first kick and seem to go just fine but it will not keep his idle as soon as i release the throttle it die, i went for short ride and still doing the samething as soon as i release throttle it would die, i tried adjusting the idle screw on the side (Since i have no tors box anymore) and it seems its not doing anything now, i thought maybe it was because the gaz was old and there wasnt that much left so my next step is to go get some new gaz and try it out but i was wondering if any of you have an idea of what it could be (havent tried with new gaz yet will go get some today or tomorrow) but ill take any suggestion, maybe i did something wrong while syncing the carb or Idk! thanks for suggestion!

After i removed mine a couple of time i put it back in and when i was kicking it it would kick free until finally sometime it grab, i looked at it and where the spring is around the gear seem loose so i remove it from the gear and put it into a vise so it could be a little bit more tight on the gear and put it back in and everything is alright since then, hope that help

Okay i have to change my a-arms in front and my complete tie rod assembly so i was wondering if i should go wider? I do some trail riding, sandpit and mx track riding, so what would be the best for me? stay stock or go wider? and if i do , do i need to replace the shock?! i dont have much money so i was thinking about 500$ max for the front end, so what you guys think i should go with?! thanks!

I got stadium suspension and they are great i really like them, but i didnt have to pay for them since it came with the bike hehe

maybe there is a leak with the compression gauge?

remove the broken tap with an extractor or something and redo it, dont waste your money on new carb

Yeah i guess it's the only way to do it , thats what i thought

Try with a small magnet , if its welded it will come out with the rod, well, it work for mine

Hey my friend have a banshee and while rebuilding the motor he strip one of his cylinder head stud into his cylinder, he said he try to make new thread and it doesnt work , any idea on how to make new thread to put a new stud back in the cylinder?

Lighting system is separate from ignition system, there is different coil on your stator for your lighting system and for your ignition system, but there is a ground that goes bolt right under your voltage regulator it is one of the 2 ground of the bike so you might bolt it just for sure if its not , other than that if your lucky enough to try a cdi from a friend who got one that would save you money and time hehe

Im from Quebec, southshore of montreal! You guys from ontario and quebec we should definitely go ride anytime soon!!!

Dans quel bout Ste-ephreme???!

when you talk about the charging coil u mean the stator? if its way out of spec that is your problem, its hard to say the voltage goin to the coil since it will depend on the rpm of your motor, you better just test the resistance of all your component, see if your coil is well grounded to the tab where it mount, 5.89 foir the secondary seem right in spec just make sure with your manual, see if there is continuity between the ground and the negative side of your coil, you should not see any resistance maybe 0.02 or something like this. this mean your ground is good, might as well see the resistance of your spark plug cap and maybe cut like 1/2 an inch of the wire so the spark plug cap is really touching the metal wire inside. check your gap on your pickup coil it should be about a business card thick between the 2 notch and the pick up.

to measure the resistance of the secondary coil you need to measure between the 2 spark plug wire , there is a mistake in the shop manual. do you get a reading from wire to wire??

alright ty very much i just ordered one from ebay just need to wait now! hehe ty all

I dont have the stock plastic thing that goes into the stock air filter , and at my dealership its 80 $ loll so im better to get an adaptor, I guess i will just try one

well i alrdy have filter and everything just missing an adpator, ill go see if there is one for sale tho ty

Hey i got a K&N air filter and im looking to get an adaptor to put in the stock airbox, there is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTAKE-AIR-...d=p4506.c0.m245 this on ebay, i was wondering if anyone here use it? is it any good? and does it fit the K&N YA-3502 filter?? cause it seem no seller are able to tell me! is there anywhere else i can get an adaptor like this for cheap? thanks

Hey , i know its the way to test it in the shop manual , but i got a brand new coil and for some reason i dont get any reading from either the positive or negative to any of a spark plug wire, so idk if it's the good way to look at it, i think maybe for the secondary coil you'd have to check the continuity with both spark plug wire, but im really not so sure about this , but mine give a reading between the spec when i do that and its brand new from yamaha dealer. My friend had the same problem testing his coil so thats why i looked on mine . Im pretty sure there is power and ground entering the first coil and then transferring with a magnetic field to the second coil which would make the spark but idk why in the shop manual they do like you said. If anyone knows better how to test the secondary coil please let us know !

the hose for the choke is connected, i have tried with 1/4 throttle half throttle, and i dont have tors box on the bike ty

cool ill look for this then, you tried the one from the dealership?? -------I will also get the thing i need to make myself a leak tester and i will give you news on that

yea i tried with one shot of starting fluid but im a little bit scared to damage anything more than helping hehe, the bike wanted to start before the starting fluid so idk, but i should definitely get something to do a leak test, i rebuild it because the piston were melt but i think it was due to a bad carb sync because they were completely out of sync when i got the bike and only one side had compression issue the other one was good. i had the bike this way. and i adjust the pick up gap with a business card and the spark is a nice blue, a little bit weak when im kicking it but im just guessing the bike need to run at higher rpm and it would be perfect. thank you all for your help---- Oh and i guess ill remove the pilot jet and the one i remove from the bike to take a picture so i can show you guys

i didnt make any leak test i dont have anything to do that but compression is at 155