toolucky

Just wondering if anyone has ever used one of these motors? A four cylinder 2 stroke sounds like it would be a nasty drag or hillshooting motor.

I would goahead and just get tha stage 4 porting. You will wish you did

Well everyone has different experiences with these guys but I've built 2 Trinity motors in the last couple of months and they were great to deal with and James Welsh was very knowledgeble and sent everything i needed and it got here fast. But then again i can only speak for James cause i have talked to some real jerks there to. So if you like Trinity stuff just ask for james

HD Springs or either a lockup to help with the clutch slippage. But make sure your clutch is not worn and also make sure its adjusted properly

try engine ice after you check your jetting. It will run around 50 degrees cooler

My local hardware has clear braided hose on a roll. Can i use this for coolant hose? Looks just like some of the stuff ive seen on some of these bikes on youtube

just use carb cleaner

do a leak down test

I just recently rebuilt a motor that had some bad rod bearings and the wrist pin bearings were fucking decengrated. I feel like the alky had a big role to play in these bearings going bad because the guy didnt maintain the bike like he shouldve while it was on alcohol (purging etc.) There was a lot of corrosion in the crank cases but just my 2 cents. Oh and all the bearings were less than a year old

Well a while back i took my lockup off because i was having the same problems shifting that alot of others were having. I tossed it in a box and forgot about it. In the mean time i had to replace my crank cases (its a long story) so while i had the motor apart i took the 2nd through 5th gears and had everyother dog removed, it made the bike shift alot better but i hated having a lockup and not being able to use it. So i decided to put it back on and see how it would work after having the tranny gears worked on. Well that was the perfect fix for my lockup problems. The bike runs like a beast now and there are no shifting problems. Im sure alot of you already knew this but just wanted too post it for those of you that didnt.

I read on here a while back that when you install a Pancake Bearing that you have to adjust the clutch arm a little beyond the arrows in the case. But wich way? Towards the Flywheel side or the Clutch side?

Im working on a friends bike and and it has stock cylinders, ported with a Trinity stage 4 head. Im not sure if its like alot of the other aftermarket heads but i have a couple of questions about it. Trinity supplied one of those copper head gaskets and i was wondering if you are supposed to put the 1211 sealant on both sides or just the bottem. Also it has these wierd looking nuts that actually screw down into the head, do i need to seal those to? My cheetah motor is set up totally different with just orings so im not to sure about this type. Thanks in advance.

I have a 421 cheetah pv motor that has the Trinity stage 4 inframe pipes on it. When i purchased the bike i got a dyno sheet that said the it had about 80 hp, i purchased a set of Sheerer out of frame drag pipes for it and i was wondering what kind of hp gain am i looking at?

Was wondering if you can disconnect the plug for the front brake wire? Every time i hit the front brake the motor cuts out almost like a stall converter on a drag car.

ive got pretty close to that same set up and im at 850 elevation. i would start with a 175 main and do a plug chop and see what you get.

to tell weather or not your pilot is lean you need to start the bike and turn the air screw in on both carbs all the way to seated, if the bike revs up continuously as you do this then you are lean. Go to the next pilot size and turn the screws two turns out and try again

Thanks. Do you know what the timing is set at when the Dyna box is on the 2nd setting

My friends banshee has a two inch extended swingarm that was fabbed by the previous owner and it works great. Basically all he did was cut it and add two inches of square tubing to each side, purchased a longer chain and he was good to go. I believe he had some type of jig that was mounted on rails that he attached the swingarm to so when he cut it apart it wouldnt move out of allignment but it would move along the rails and it would hold both pieces secure so they could be welded.

Started tearing down another motor this weekend and noticed that this motor had an Adjustible timing plate and it also has the Dyna digital ignition box that has the 3 or 4 preset timing curves. Is it nesissary to have both of these or is it a "either or thing" ? I just have the Dyna box on mine with it set on the 2nd curve. If i need to give more info on these bikes then let me know

Well im not trying to sound like a DICK but if i knew the answer to that Q i wouldnt have asked it

I had to pull my cheetah cylinders off today because the plugs on the bottom needed resealing. They were leaking antifreeze. My question is do i have to go through the break-in process again?

Did a leak down test, pressureized the cylinders @ 6 psi and at the end of 6 min the gauge was on 5.5 psi. Is this a good number or should i start lookin for leaks?

yeah i made that one. the power valves have jets on them and i dont know a good way to seal them off. Any ideas would b appreciated

ok then whats a good way to seal off the power valves cause they are both leaking

Do i have to do a leak down test on both cylinders seprately. I have cheetah pv cylinders and i cant get the gauge to move when i pressurize them. I made the same tester thats in the sticky