toolucky
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Everything posted by toolucky
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To know for sure on the mains you need to do a proper plug chop. As far as the pilots, go to Duncan Racing's web site and look in the tech section then look under two stroke tuning and they have a great explanation for dialing in your pilot jets. www.duncanracing.com
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Im in Va. but i have that same setup. Sounds like your in the ball park. What problems are you having that would make you think that your jetting is off?
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My fault, that measurement was the thickness of the solder before the test. I had to fold it over and melt it together then do the test and it was .060" sorry for the mix up
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1.30mm
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Well just to update you guys, I've found my low end bog problem on my Good ole Trusty Trinity motor. Checked my squish and the piston wouldn't even put a blemish in the solder and the solder measures 1.30 so time to pull that F'n Trinity sticker off my plastic LOL
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Well I cleaned the powervalves and adjusted the pilot and the bike runs alot better, it even ran better with the plate at plus 5 and the Dyna on num 2 setting. BUT!! it still has a bog on the launch and if i do get it to launch without the bog it seems to sputter terrible through 1st and 2nd. What would happen if i just took the powervalves out and put a plate over them? Just an idea because im all out of ideas.
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Ok guys i took your advice and richened up the needle one clip position, installed a chariot timing plate and set it at +5 with the Dyna on setting 1 and the bike does run better but it still has a bog seven out of ten launches. If it does launch it comes out hard and nearly turns over even with 7 inches over but its just not consistent. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Im still leaning towards power valve problems but right now Im just stumped.
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If he got the carbs with this motor and the crank is still good and the cases arent cracked then i think he did ok. That setup is not cheap. Call trinty and you will see what im talking about
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aftermarket cranks with orings! Machine a grove in cases?
toolucky replied to lt1bird's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
If someone tells you that you need these grooves machined into your cases then they just dont have a clue or they are trying to get money out of you. -
The bottom hole on the pickup is slotted for adjustment
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Whats your temp and elevation? Im at 850' and its been about 65 degrees here. The motor and pvs are less than a year and old.
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Thanks for the info....Ill try messing with the pilot and the needle clip. I was thinking that the needle might be a little rich but I will try lowering the clip first and see were it gets me.
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Yeah there are springs inside of them. Maybe i will look into that and see if that will help my launch. Thanks for the reply
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I have the cheetah pv cylinders from trinity and right now they have a 230 main jet in them. Are there any adjustments on these because im not getting the low end out of these cylinders that everyone talks about. Mods are 19cc domes stage IV porting (ive been told this is Trinitys drag port) V3s, Dyna box on num 3 setting, 35 PWKs with clamp-ons, straight cut gears with hd clutch from kevin, lockup, all the trans mods, 15 41 gearing, with 22inch tires, Sheerer small bore OOF drag pipes. The motor is a 421 4 mill with 5 mill long rod 68.5 mm bore. Im doing alot of draging on the street and you have to rev it to the moon to make it launch without bogging. From a roll it halls ass but still seems to be lacking on the bottem. Almost forgot the carbs have 165 mains with plug chop, CEL needle on the middle clip and 148 pilot 2and1/2 turns out.
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Just installed a new Hinson basket with Straight cut gears and the bike runs great, but is it normal for the straight cut gears to make noise? It sounds almost like a whistling noise kinda kinda like a super charger LOL . Just wondering if any of you are expeirencing this with those gears.
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If you have no reason to pull the top end then yes its better to do it that way because it saves you some gaskets and time. Just make sure that your gears don't move, so when you put the bottom case half back on the forks will still line up.
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Spark issue after timing advance mishap
toolucky replied to studwyck1's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
The flywheel may not b up to par. You just don't know what happened to it before you bought it. If its been dropped really hard on concrete or something it could mess up the magnets. Just an idea. -
Trinity sells a ceramic ball that replaces the metal one. That works good too and its cheaper.
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Has anyone tried these? From the pics on cascades website they look like they really open up the VF3s. Let me know if any of you have used these and if so what differences were noticed.
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I have Cheetah Cylinders so there is an extra bolt in the top and the bottem of each intake but i use UPP's and they seem to work great and they keep my 35's high enough to miss the actuator arm.
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I thought the same thing but i need to know for sure before i waste anymore money on wheels and tires
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Which is heavier ? A 20" tire on a 10" rim or a 20" tire on a 8" rim? I want the lightest combo possible
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you will need to remove the springs off of your clutch basket to relieve the tension from the actuator arm. Remove the left carb and push the spring off of the boss thats rite beside the clutch actuator arm and then it should slide out
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are your air adjustment screws set the same on both carbs and are they sinked
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Man that motor is freekin huge. Maybe better suited for a cart or buggy but i bet that bitch sounds unreal.

