toolucky

Is it crucial to use cylinder allignment dowels when installing a Cheetah cylinder? I would think the stud extenders would be enough but im not sure

James at Trinity told me that comp testers with short threads would lose about 30 or 40 lbs. You need to use a tester with a long set of threads.

Sorry guys, I know this is not the place for this post but i need help posting my pics. Ive reduced this size of each pick and uploaded them but every time i do it just posts texts. What am i doing wrong?

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yeah its a hinson basket. 4 bolts and a metal plate, it broke three bolts and bent the steel plate. also chipped the case around the crank seal. I need to post pics so you guys can tell me if i will need another case half or if this one can still b used

My bike is stuck in 5th gear so i was told to check the shift shaft. i was just draining the tranny oil and it seems to have a lot of shavings. The magnet on the drain bolt was pretty much covered and i could see shavings coming out into my drain pan, they werent that big but im not sure what is normal

thanks for the info

its just stuck in one. Ive been having problems with it miss shifting and going into neutral when i shift between 2nd and 3rd, and between 3rd and 4th. does anyone here think i need to grind the points on the shift star?

if i remove my cheetah cylinders will i need another base gasket?

thanks for all the info everyone i will pull the cylinders and see whats up and try to post pics.

was trying to fix one problem and i ran into another. The bike is stuck in 5th or 6th gear, not sure which one. how do i get it out? will i need to split the cases?

the needle says CEL

i knew the jetting would be rich with this temp change but would that cause it to sieze

water temp sensor is actually located between the case cover and the bottem of rhe radiator

did a comp test and one side messures 140 and one side measures 130. i saw some stamping on the top of the head were the plug goes in and it 68.5-----19-----10. im assuming the 19 means dome size

I have a 421 cheetah PV motor built and broken in by Trinity. Ive been running 155 mains and 50 pilots with needle on middle clip. 1 1\2 turns out on the air fuel screw. the temperature has ben in the 40s here and im at 850 elevation. Running the 35 pwks 111 race fuel and Belray H1R synthetic. havnt really had any complaints until yesterday, the temp got up in the mid 60s but i just left the jetting like it was and rode. The water temp gauge never gets above 160. later in the evening the bike was having a WOT bog almost like it was staving for fuel so i headed home checkd the plugs and they were a dark tan almost chocalate but i put in new ones anyway. started the bike up and let it idle for a minute then it just seized. couldnt budge the kick starter. finally freed it up and it kicks over just fine. what would have made it do that?

1/16 of an inch or less. and i saw lastnight that one of the wheel hubs has play also

well i bought the bike with the axle already installed. so i dont really know what the old axle was like. But is a little play OK or am i needing to look into buying all new hubs. I really dont want to mess up this new axle. By the way the Bike has a 421 cheetah PV motor and i drag for fun on Pavement alot so are these hubs gonna blow quicker or should i just keep an eye on them

just purchased a shee with a new gforce axle and the sprocket hub and brake hub have a little front to back play. its not a lot of play but there is some. Is this normal or are they supposed to not have any movement at all?

im very new to this but im having the exact same prob with a 4 mill trinity bike that i just purchased. James at trinity put the motor together and they broke it in. and now im getting nothing from the right side either and he said to put new plugs in and if it wasnt that it could have a main seal leak