TJScott

lol, im sure that wont be necessary. his little z400 wont stand a chance.

Thanks everybody! Ya, im going with a set of t5's and stock carbs. I will go with the k&n's though. The main reason I want toomey pipes is because my brother needs to be put in his place with all of his two-stroke bashing.

I thought I would just let you all know the whole story. I used to have an Rm125. One morning, I noticed an ad for a fixer-upper banshee for sale. It had a shattered piston, but the rolling chassis was solid. I talked to the guy for a week, then one weekend, I headed a few hundred miles across the state, traded the guy my bike for his banshee and $150 (nice guy overpaid $30). I arrived home with it and loved it! The engine he had given me was one he got off of his friend, like i said it was blown, but it was in terrible condition! The piston had seen it's better days so I bit the bullet and decided to buy a manual and split the cases! Dave 5.0 Got me a good deal on some cylinders and a crank. Now here I am, Its all back together, ready to mount. Now all I need are some carbs, air filters, and pipes.

well everything is solid, all it needs is pressed apart and new inner bearings. i havent gotten that priced, but for $100 i think thats a good deal.

i believe the outers are fine, its the inners that need replacing. the rods feel tight.

yep..........

I am willing to go down to $100, thats as far as i can go, seriously this is an incredible deal, if you dont buy it im going to put new bearings in and use it myself.

that was only from like 04 to 07 or 06, kawi and suzuki were together which explains why the rm-z's didnt have showa suspension. my completely unbiased opinion, the raptor700. definitely not the 400. Yet the 450 would win out of all of them.

oh, i shouldve known that, duh, lol. but what about the one on the top case?

alright, heres a real quick one for you guys. the banshee case has a hole in the right side, does some sort of shaft go there or is it just like that all the time? im pretty sure there is one like that in the top case too...

thats a good deal, right? also, i will include the 2 gears that go on.

i got it! ok now for gearing, i put the top case and everything on like nitrotate's video said and shifted. now, i can get it into gears and stuff, but heres the thing. i sometimes shift, and nothing happens. but if i twist the shaft for a bit you can hear it grind just a tad and then pop into gear, then it will shift into the next gear. only sometimes though, and only after i put the gears in. is that normal?

yeah, thats what i thought it was called, i got the nut off, but the gear itself is stuck.

do you think it would be ok to just try and twist it loose?

theres my problem, taking the gears off the old crank they both slid freely off, but on this one they are just stuck, i wonder if somethings in there... anyways, is there anywhere i can pry or something without damaging anything?

uh, the small gear on the crank.

Cheap Hot Rods crank, needs bearings. piston blew up, none of it touched the crank, but it went into the bearings. $150 plus shipping.

im taking the seal off of my crank, i spun the nut off, but cannot get the gears off. i tried pb blaster, everything, any ideas how to get the gears off?

it does have to come off to replace the seal, but not to split the cases. thats what i was saying

the drive gears on the crank do not have to come off. take off all bolts on top and bottom of the case in order according to your manual. make sure you keep them in order with their numbers.

i had a problem similar to this when i grenaded 3rd gear on my brother's ltz400.

as a hardcore dirtbiker ive ridden both hard. the 125 takes alot of skill to go fast with, its alot of clutch work. the 250f is a nice, but a somewhat boring bike after awhile unless you ride the track hard. the 125 is a very nice bike if you dont have tons of money to spend on rebuilds, you can rebuild a 2 stroke 3-5 times in the money it takes to rebuild a 4 stroke. the 125 is going to make you a much better rider. you are going to learn to use the brakes, the clutch, and the lightswitch (throttle), twice as good as with the 250f. with all of that said, i myself and going to trade my banshee for an rmz250 or a crf250r next year for mx racing purposes, and a yz250 or rm250 (used to have rm125) for fun and practice purposes. four strokes have a tendancy to overheat at lower speeds also. so if your a weekend warrior with not a bunch of money to spend, the 2 stroke is definitely the way to go. if your a hardcore dirtbiker with alot of extra change and patience with valve maintainance and such, the 4 stroke will do just fine. alright, so if your going with the 125, dont get a cr under 05 or anything under 03, you will regret it later. 4 stroke, dont get an rmz or crf or kx-f 04 or 05 due to valve issues, yz-f's handled bad under 06. and have fun!

sorry, its been awhile since ive done that, i forgot about the clutch thing. as far as prying, i never had any horror stories, but i was real careful.

i was joking

Splitting the cases of a banshee is very easy, I will walk you through it. Step 1. Clean everything outside the motor as best you can, you will also want a clean workspace to avoid getting dirt in your engine and doing this again. 2. Drain all your fluids and unmount the engine from your frame. There are only a few mounts under, behind, and in front of the engine. Also disconnect all electrical connections. While you're at it remove the drive sprocket. 3. Remove the screws from the water pump, clutch, and flywheel cover on your engine, they are screws that strip easy, so an impact driver is highly recommended 4. Now you need to pull the flywheel, you may only use the Yamaha flywheel puller that is specifically for the Banshee, any other flywheel puller will ensure damage to your crank and flywheel. Remember, this puller is reverse threaded, thread it into your flywheel until only two threads are showing, now tighten the inside bolt until it becomes pretty tight, but not too tight. Now hit the top of the bolt with a hammer and the flywheel should come off. Do not forget to get the woodruff key off of the shaft. 5. Now take a look at the other side of the banshee. The first thing you need to do is take the middle bolt out of your clutch pressure plate. Followed by all of the spring bolts and springs. Now remove the pressure plate and all of the clutch plates. There is a tab washer holding the nut in place, use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to bend it out of the way of the nut. Use an oil filter wrench (the belt kind) to hold the inner hub of the clutch while you spin the nut out of the middle of the clutch. The inner hub should now be removable along with the basket. There is a ball and a nut in the shaft, remove them so you do not lose them. Then remove the two screws holding the stopper plate and shield plate near the shaft. 6. Now you must remove the kickstarter mechanism, there is a spring coming off of it that hooks to a tab You will need to pry the spring up until it comes off. The kickstarter mechanism should just pull out. 7. Remove all the rest of the gears on this side, the drive gear connected directly to the crankshaft is fine, all the rest should remove with a snap ring remover. 8. Remove the nuts from your head, remove the coolant hoses on it and use a rubber mallet to knock it loose. 9. Remove the four nuts around each cylinder, there is nothing to this, knock them back and forth only with a rubber mallet, not side to side. They will pull straight up, hold on to the pistons as soon as they are exposed, do not let them hit the case. 10. Locate the circlips holding the wrist pins in. If the pistons are disposable, you can use a sharp screw driver or something of the sort. Pry it down while pulling it toward you, put your hand over the hole so you don't get hit with the circlip or lose it in the engine somewhere. After you have them out, use the screwdriver again to gently tap the wrist pin out. The piston will come off now. 11. Locate the nuts on the bottom of your engine, remove them all in order according to your manual. Do not lose these! Now locate the numbers near the bolts on the top of the engine, make sure to label each bolt in some way so you remember what went where. Loosen them also in order according to your manual. Also the clutch engager will just pull right up after you take these off. 12. It is time to split your cases. Use your rubber mallet and try and knock the cases loose this a little difficult, you may use a regular hammer and lightly tap places where the cases overlap. Once it starts to give, use a screwdriver and very gently pry. Once you can get some fingers in there, pull up carefully, be sure to make sure the gears do not stick to the top case or they will fall. Be holding onto your rods so they do not bang into the case. 13. Now you may remove the crank or gears as necessary they will pull directly up. There are two big and one small c clips under the crank and gears so you need to remember where they go. -TJ Scott