AKheathen

well, the reason certain ils can go lean as 100:1 or 80:1 is the break-down or burn-off rate. he is likeley runing that amsoil dominator, or whatever it is that supports it. the particular oil that can support it hangs out and remains stable, retaininag all it's lube properties more than 2x as long as most other oils. this means that, even though there is so little amounts of the oil being added, there is still the same amount of working oil accumulated at all times. the jetting on the pro-circuits, may need 1 size or be fine, but certain setups have called for as much as 6 sizes increase, as with my personal experience, and from what i've seen many times on here. i went from gen 1 or2 gold series pipes, shown in my sig (yes, i coated them white), to pcp's and thaught i was doing something wrong when i had to jet from 290-310 range to 340-360 range, but that's what the pipes liked, and i even did plug chops, to make sure i wasn't crazy, lol. i'm sure you will notice right away if that is the case with you.

funny, i was just getting on to post pics of mine........and the water pump thing, you have to push out on it from the inside, and that's the clearance it will be at when it is running, since the coolant being sucked in and forced inward will apply outward pressure, otherwise, no pump being made will last long at all.......anyways, here's mine- i'm gonna try and put it on in the next few days, if it stops snowing, lol

well, if you are like most people, you probably washed the shit out of it befor tearing down. it is possible that rust/corrosion got in there while it was sitting, which only takes a day or so, but it is also possible that the pickup coil needs adjusted to the nodes on the flywheel too. i use a sparkplug box to set mine.

lol, i put in the $30 bid on them. they look like "hemi" domes, without the cooling fins. they aren't big bore are they? i already accedently bought some bb domes the they guy didn't know a couple weeks ago and thought they were stroker. if you want to speed things up, i might go higher, or send a spare set in to get cut to 20cc stroker.......oh, and do you know what pistons they were run on, or the squish angle/width? pm me

i got it all....shoot me some pics. do they come with intakes and/or filters?

hey, i think the kitty is cute. just do like me and rock a pic of when you bought the bike, lol

find a safe way to put heat to the flywheel taper. might have to go with just a heat gun, or put the heat to the puller. make absolutely sure the puller is in the threads real good. if it ddoesn't pop, loke it should once it gets hot enough, then tap the puller strait tward the crank. watch out as it might jump good, but the magnets should keep it in place.

yah, that's a sign that the stator is not giving enough juice to the cdi. the cdi is having to build minimum charge before it sparks. check the wiring between the cdi and stator, and check out the stator/flywheel. you could've melted the wires by the airbox on the exhaust. you can check the magnets in the flywheel by shaking it like a maracca, and running a screwdriver across the inside and it will jump from the center of one magnet to the other, evenly spaced. likely just a bad stator, and i've seen them ohm out ok, but not put out enough.

make sure you check your squish clearance first thing. 180 is pretty high for 20's. i ran 90 oct. with 20's and stock porting for a long time no problems at all, but my jetting was always spot on, and my squish is on the conservative side @.052"~ o run a 50/50 mix of 100LL and 90 with +5.5 timing asl. strait 100LL will be fine. and, no, the low oct. did not break the skirt. that is almost always from excessive piston-bore clearance. check to see if you have a spacer plate under your cylinders where they match to the cases, or try and remember how deep the domes were when you had it off. it really sounds like a stroker, which should net you about 185 with a mild or simple stroker porting @ 1mm over

it really does sound like either an airleak, or fouled plug. make sure the little vaccume hose is hooked up between the 2 carbs.

yah, ohm check it at the plug. red to green usually reads between 16 and 20 ohms. that's the ignition windings on the stator. red/white to green/white should be around 100 ohms. that's the puckup coil on the outside of the flywheel. make sure the gap on that is about the thickness of a sparkplug box. how are you removing the flywheel? i would shake it and listen for a magnet or 2 rollin around. now, is it sparking, and then not, or does it spark about every 2-3 kicks? that will also point where the prob is

just now checkin my pm's.......i'll take 'em......hit me up in shout/pm..

well, i have to cast my vote to wildcard, as usuall. from all i have seen, they pretty much treat every build like family, and go the exra mile to ensure perfect results every time. that being said, i whole hartedly agree with papa smurf that you need to call around and figure which builder you are most comforable with. that list is pretty much the a-list of builders, so if you are worried about the turn-around from your first choice, you will not be making a sacrifice in any way by choosing another, as far as final product is concerned.

i have intakes and pods. also interested in info on the oversized intakes. i need pods for my 30's if anyone has any,. lol

i'd drive right down there cash in hand, but that's about the furthest you can get from me in the us, lol

i would've cried for a while, then make a post asking what to do.

yah, most likely will stress out the ball joints when it's extended and tear them up. only run them with yfz arms

btw, i was being fecicious about the drag pipes. i'm sure you would hate them in the pit/trails, lol. i don't think you realize what a huge sound difference almost every pipe makes over stock, and yes, nixing the box will reall add a big throaty sound from the intakes. just get some t-5's or dmc's. the 916's and aliens are the same pipe with different silencers, so i don't know which sounds better, but i'm sure it wil come up on a search. if you want a little more bottom, go with the t-6's. we just see these "loud pipe" threads all the time, and everyone gets all worked up, and not without good reason

x2, the lid makes a huge difference

yah, i fit stock pods on my 28's with a tiny bit of effort, lol

well, what kinda riding do you do that calls for a lightened flywheel? i would start looking at the tranny and shifter for mods, since you'll be in there anyways. how's the clutch? with the new porting, you may need 1/2 hd springs, and i would take a good look at the basket for grooving

sending pm...

lol, that's a bit much there, and not all of which i really agree with. first off, it's allot more complicated than a 4mill is like raising the ports 2mm, as +2mm on a stock stroke is different thanthe same distance on a 4mill rotation in the same degree location. to give you an idea, without the base spacer, the stock exhaust port will be near 180 degrees, which is not far off from stock durration. raising 2mm, however, will differ almost 10 degrees from stock stroke to 4mill cranks, if i remember correctly. the bottom of the ports does make a difference, but not as huge as you may think, and o would not recomemnd cutting at all, without a good amount of experience, skill and precision in cutting such material, and stick to just the exhaust, if you can make the port, and chamfer smooth and even. the biggest power robber, is the new port degree cycle has placed the transfers and exhaust too close together, aside from the ports themselfs having stock flow design......now, the transfer windows- i would most definately tell anyone to leave them untouched by anyone but an experienced 2-stroke builder, with the proper tools. i do understand the leakage issue with the head spacers but messing with the squish band and compression? how so? all you need is to set the squish clearance with the right thickness gaskets and that's it. it's the extra stroke that changes compression, but the chambers themselfs aren't effected, as you are basically just adding to the cylinders..... also, there are a few different options for long rod pistons, but weisco 795 series is one of the most popular, and you can have a head rechambered, or buy a "coolhead" and get the domes...i was just thinking about initial cost to get it goin without cheapin out elsewhere

oh, yah, you need to use a site like photobucket to host the pis, and then you add the link to your post. you can e-mail me pics @ [email protected]

no, you don't NEED the porting for it to run without spacer plates, but you will only get a little bit of gain without the porting, as the transfer timing will be off the only difference with running the spacer plate under the cylinders and clearancing the head/running stroker domes, or head spacer, is the rpm range of the power. runing the head clearanced will benifit more.