AKheathen

"No man I don't believe they even go much below the boost port" wtf again....you should know by now exactly where eveything travels in the cylinders, way before cutting....the verry first step is mapping, as if to "blueprint" your unit......that being said......."$100 for a cheap dremel, 90 degree tool, and a couple bits. $25 for a spacer and gasket." looks like you already covered it...........the 90 degree tool will be cheap, and hardly more to write home about than ghetto fabulous. get the fucking tool, cut your transfers, since you already chopped on the rest and get on it with the transfers. i'm sure you already figuresd out the blowdown @ about 31, or whatever you are trying to get, and angles, otherwise, throw those juggs under the bench and put in 50 hrs reading up on your literatue=rea, and progress as it becomes clear to you, and then go back to doing it........i would e-slap anyone tellin you what you want to hear and cheat by riggin it up with a shit wedge undr your cyls because you want to pussy out on a big ass ordeal that you were adimate about despite the warnings. next time, come on with a real solution, not just asking everybody to validate a fucked up short cut you want to take............ok, now this post is totally made from my drunken state, so i may resend somthing otr another out of sympathy, but that's what i am thinking now.........................likely honest and harsh...

i told ya man, shoot me a pm with your # and i can rewind/repair it.....i even have spares to run, lol

i have some.........sending pm now

i was out lookin for the powder, just now, actually.......just missed the welding shops, so i got stuck googling in other stores, lol

well, actually there are a couple things....the frame rake is just the frame, but basically just a term used to point out the swing radius/direction of the arms. but, it is in no way at all corelated to caster, which is set solely by the relationship from upper to lower ball joints creating the caster axis. you should go do a bucnh of reading in the suspension section, where this is more than covered.....but, to answer you question, you need a full front frame reconstruction to accept new longer arms. it will be a good knock-off of honda handling, but it would be 10x bettter, imo, to just custom build a front suspension that handles to what suits you , rather than just better, for the same price. that's actually what i am doing when i get the materials.......x+a-arm long travel front

black/red to black is what you would've done......

yah, it really depends on what force is being applied as to what the wekest link is..........my general opinion is that the ball bearings hands down, then the tiny needle rollers, then the rods, but something as simple as an improperly seated crank, or compression imballance will leave all that unharmed and rip the crank apart easy........so, the thing is, that they are good spec stock rods, and i already got one a little hot. enough to color the copper coating, and i figured it's a simple 10.9 japaneese steel, or they would not bend as much as i've seen and simply break. the plan is to relax it over 1200, then a few heat/quench cycles to haredn it back up and re-hone, but i'm also thinking about case hardening, depending on how much the gallon costs.....i have my metalurgy mentor here in town with me so, we'll get it. thanx for the input guys

wtf? tryin to run the spacer to move the ports? that's ghetto ass, and i understand why, but you didn't decide to do this to take shortcuts, did ya? work like that will surely bow. so, find a way to do it right, and not ruin a good set of cylinders intentionally, which i'm sure you have 100+ hrs int from reasearch, mapping and cutting. otherwise, take them into your guy who has the tool to get the transfers and have them cut as much as you want.....i'm sure he'll do it pretty cheap, if all it is is using his 90* tool to follow the dotted line.

you know, this isn't the first i've noticed this, but it appears that this is another company that has taken off of the fmf dies/headpipe design. but, that's what they appear to be, if a signiature series woods pipe stamped under a different name. not at all a bad pipe, and i've always believed that fmf pipes do way better with a change-up in silencers. the other one was auspuff goldspeed pipes in euro area, which was a gnarley, or sst, to the letter...i can't remember which. i could be wrong on this pipe, but it is possible, adn that is what i see through my currently buzzed eyes, lol

yah, middle setting on the needle is usually the best place to start. if you read the sticky pinned at the top of theis section, it explains the chop, but it's basically just getting the bike warmmed up, then once you are lined up with a good long pull, you put brand new-never run plugs in and start and pinn it all the way through 6th, never letting off, unless you have to blip to shift. once you top out 6th, ot run out of room after pullong wot more than 10 seconds loaded, then you pull the clutch and kill it and don't let the motor turn over until you stop and remove the plugs. put the old ones back in and go ride bqack to chop them and read the ring at the bottom of the porcelin. you want a 2mm chocolate ring all the way around....then you move t the needlles if you need to.

lol, that's why i said you need the degrees and port shape/size to tell,

well, all you can do is measure....mm-degrees conversion isn't verry easy, since linear distace per degree of rotation changes by every degree...and the plate is only 1.5mm.....plus whatever gasket you add

oh, yah....i'm gonna need avgas hookups along the way.........only like a 22 gal tank on my trailer, lol. as for jets and tires, i have just about every mikuni size, but i'm running lectrons, so it's just a twist to change it up. my tires run just about everything really good, and i run bi-directional, but i'm gonna need paddles, too.

wow, that's a shit oload, of torque on those little bolts, lol.......i do it about 30-40 in/lb with a allen wrench......so, it looks like there was some kind of sealnt on the reed cage, actually. make sure it's all of the rubber, so it seals flat, or that out put something back on it to seal...

haha, keyswitch wires?

yes, you just run 4 of the same gasket, and about replacing the other one- that's up to you. good practice to just replace them, but i don't always do it if it's stuck to the cyl good, it won't leak ther, imo, and if it's still maliable and not hardened, then it can seal to the reed cage good. if you don't know wheather to trust it, replace it. you really don't want it to leak there.

stock cages with boysen power reeds. stock intakes have a sealing ring on them, so they don't use gaskets on that side from the factory, but many people throw some in there anyways for insurance, and it doesn't hurt, lol. as for the porting, well, it doesn't look like a hack-job with a 1/4" die gringer, but other than that, you need the transfers and exhaust measurements in degrees and shape to tell what kind of porting it is. only thing i notice is that the intake is really polished, which i would personally never do to anything but the exhaust, but that's a preference thing between porters, so i'll just leave that as my personal opinion....which i would be inclined to throw a needle scaler on, lol

lol, definately, and i'll try to pack as much canadian beer as they will allow.........where exactly is the hq? like ty's shop? always wondered where.....

ok, so i'm about to send out some connecting rods to put on one of my cranks, and i'm thinking about tempering them frst. i don't know if it would be a good thing to do to a connecting rod or not, but it sounds like a good idea to me and free, too.

hm, i guess i shouldn't say that dunes are one of the main focuses..... i guess there isn't any main focus, but i am a hill addict, lol, and i want to ride everything worth remembering, lol. thanx guys

so, i've been thinkin about it for months, and i guess i'm just going to comit to it now. i plan on making a tour through the us/canada and hit all the must-ride spots. going to start down the alcan probably may/june sometime and hit some riddin with savage420, then probably go clockwise tward pa, to hit the coal hills, and work around and back up the west coast. anyone's welcome to join, and i need a list of must-ride spots through the us, and even some decent ridding allong the way. main focus is hillclimbs and dunes, i guess, but i ususaly ride the shit out of trails, so whatever, i guess, i'ma do it all, lol. not exactly set on the date, either, so help me out with a plan, if you can.

yah, gotta watch out for that moisture in the carbs, lol.......choke helpswith that, untill the water dries up........x2 on the plug caps. spray them and all connectors you can find with electrical cleaner, then use trucklite nyk for connectors, and the silicone dielectric for the plug caps/wires. i even use nyk for my kill/headlight switches.

yah, but he said they are all cleaned.....only other ground would be the back of the timing plate where the wires clamp on....

haha, look at mine.....i had never even washed it yet, lol. just got rid of the ugly red tank plastcs/grill, and slapped the pipes on. that's orange electrical tape on the bars.......don't be ashamed, after all...it's a shee anyways

yes