AKheathen

sounds like a jetting issue. what you are doing is called double clutching. i do this to get an extra boost when i'm racing. if your clutch was slipping, the rpm's would go higher.

i have red gas tank and radiator cover that i want to trade for another color that goes wit yellow. :thumbsup:

brake clean and red scotch brite works well.

not exactly, the gaskets have to seat fully before they're pressurzed

mabey there's coolant trapped in your exhaust. what all did you take apart/ change? check plug boots and wires

sorry, i was really tired, and diddn't word it right. i do agree with you on how to adjust them, but it was part of the troubleshooting process, and i was thinking about someone elses problem and thaught they were oversized juggs. should still see what the airscrew does with theslides higher and lower. it sounds like the needle's not fitting right. or if the pilot's too small you may need to load it with fuel to stop the hesitation when you stab the throttle.also, reading back, i noticed you don't specify all you did in the rebuild, or what you did for mods (intake and exhaust) did you port? domes? pipe? can? boost bottle, tube, or plugged? and a biggie i forgot- is there any exhaust leaks? i'll try not to post when i'm tired, but puzzles keep me from sleeping.

actually, they both do. the air screws adjust the mixture up to 1/8 throttle, thus controlling the idle speed too, but if it seems to run good in that range, i wouldn't worry about it. thats why i said IF your worried about it. half a turn out is a little rich

sorry, i am sorta noob to banshee's too, but i've been working on sleds for years, and grew up with a blaster. i am at work right now and about 800 miles away from my shee at home, so i can't remember if the shee has a thermistat or not. but on sleds, i've seen many people make the mistake of pullin thier thermostat without puttin a restrictor in. and the coolant mooves to fast to transfer heat good. that carb's definateley not putting out fuel at idle. i assume you've blown into the bowl vent tube and checked your choke/airscrew passages. if so, save yourself the headache and go get another carb body. that one could be cracked and you cant see it. oh, and try see what happens when you replace the boost bottle with plugs. this is how the sleds run for 10'000-13'000 rpms. the bottle absorbs return pulses on lower rpms, not meant to equalize sides, it just does when you use one bottle for both sides(byproduct) yamaha actually designed these and are supposed to be prprietary to the cylinder, but the manufacturers just make what they want and it still helps, but not as good as its supposed to.

oh yah if your worried about your air screws, adj. the slide stop screws a little.

are your plugs wet, or do they look wet? sounds like glazing. i only experienced this prob once on my 583 rotax. i had just adjusted the timing plate fore higher rpm power aand took the air box off to let it breathe, then adjusted the carbs. ran great, and god awfull power(intake sounded sweet too) but i rode a little bit and then did a couple of hundred yard pulls (got up to 80, then stopped to turn around) then it bogged out and barely ran whn i took off. i was running br9 denso iridium plugs, and then went through my ngk spares. just kept torching them untill i went in and baught some br10 gold pilladium and never had a problem since. try wiping the plugs off with a dry q-tip and if they don't come dry, switch to a hotter plug. br8 ---> br9 ex.

did you check the reeds? one could be bad. do you have a thermostat?

i was going to post asking why cut, but it sounds like just for looks. is this true, or does someone have a functional reason?

sounds like you glazed a plug, but pull and clean your carbs and check all the passages for crap in them. check for tears in the booys and clean the reeds. always make it run like before, before changing anything. squeeze the throttle and watch the slides to make sure theymoove right before you pull the cables.

how long does it take to swell the hoses? all of them? and are you loosing coolant? the choke forces it to suck more fuel= needs more fuel. adjust your air screws and sync the carbs. then moove the needle 1 knotch richer at a time for the 1/8 to 3/4 throttle range. 3/4 - WOT is your main jet mixture. tear them down and check for debris if you have a problem adjusting them (all the way down) without knowing whatelse you've done for mods, i can't sy what size to run, but it's always safer to go richer thn come back down. or you can say goodby to that shinny new injun :biggrin:

saw them in a snow-go mag and and don't know if you guys have used them on your shee from stock to full mod setups. i know the setups have been used in one form or another on automotive for different reasons for many years now. but i dont know if thy'll do anything on a slide carb or not.

definately lack of full swing. the air just isn't mooving fast enough to get it started at half swing. mine starts first or second kick sitting down warm, but i have to stand up holding the choke out and kick it 4-8 times fast @ 30-40 degrees when the engine cold. i wouldn't put up with the frustrations of a half kick :verymad:

p.s. send your new pistons to swaintech coatings fr a ceramic and friction coating. it doesn't cost much.

all i can say is that it looks like that piston got a little hot around the wristpin. as for the 32:1, i am assuming that ireland is as humid as alaska, if not more, except for the dry winters. everyone cranks the oil back up for summer or switch to a hotter plug for winter.

oh yah, now that your motor has broke in your compression should have gone up like having slightly smaller chambers, and coolant could have built up around the rings making them stick whn the pistons get hot

matt, forget what i said about yor silencers and jetts as it was way past my bed time and i was less than sober. first thing you should do is buy some brand new ngk's and go ridding. as soon as it starts popping, slam the foot brake too stall it and read the plugs. they should look almost new and be clean except for mabey some fuel from stalling. look all the way inside too it should be the same with no heat rings. this will help tell if it's electrical or not. after you ride back and shut it down normally, pull the plugs again- they should be dry. be carefull when you pull the plugs out that they come realatively easy because you could gall the threads if they stick when they are hot, but they shouldn't stick unless you use aluminum anti-sieze or they have been a very long time

first off, you should be running 32:1 mix. second, what entails the mild porting? it,s probably just a port polish w/out any reshaping involved, which reduces atomization that should occur from turbulence before it reaches the crank case. think of it as a partial distilling process which allows the fuel to remain suspended for combustion leaving the oil to lubricate and cool the rotating assembily evenly. limiting this process will cause the fuel/oil mixture to have mor innertia and only cool lubricate and atomize of the first piece of hot metal it touches, which would mostly be the pistons (top and bottom) and the crank weights. larger jetts and a 32:1 mixture would have probably saved your motor. then again if there is scooring on the intake side, too much was taken off durring the porting and caused the pistons to cock and drag.

http://www.eindiancompanies.com/images/resonator.htm

don't have time to read all the replies, but i am a meachanic at red dog mine, alaska -60 below sometimes. first off plug it in! you should have or get a block heater and a pan heater. 20 degrees or below. at 20-30 below your oil is the consistency of silly putty. more like vasilene at 0. second NEVERuse ether (starting fluid) third, the gas stations should switch to winter fuel below freezing, they also sell anti-gell if you have summer fuel in the tank. other than that, dont put anything else in your tank and let your glow plugs work. the only other special trick if you have a problem starting any diesel in etreme cold is compressed air direct into intake manifold if you can.

i knew i would catch shit for this, but no i'm not. boost bottles do work, but there are some calculations involved, not just bolt on power. i don't have time to go into the details on how, but this will smooth out my low r's when i need to do some ridding at lower speeds. then i can stick my tube back on otherwise. so what size are the bottles (cc's or dimensions)?

air screw too lean or chek for air leaks between the carbs and juggs by spraying starting fluid there while it idles. i wouldn't suggest tearing into the electronics without testing the spark and adustments first.