AKheathen

pull your plugs out and check them! they should be light brown on the ceramic and dry. then screw the one back into the tip and pull it out of the cap :thumbsup: you may have to push and turn to get it to screw back in. and excessive smoke is usually cheap oil, old/bad gas, or plugged air filter.

usually just the rubber tip worn on the needle, but it's sold as "needle and seat" up here you can get them at any atv store, but do some shopping around. i've seen them over 40 bucks a piece at some places, and as low as 35 a pair at others, but that was 3-4 years ago. it's commonfor them to go out in about 5 years or so, but it doesn't sound like you've had them in that long. it is a good idea to replace them if they are leaking. if you park downhill, they might leak twards your intake. probbably wont, but i jus say that because it happened on my sled years back. the trailer toung was on the ground all summer, and it filled the crank and exhaust. when i tried to start it, it barely ran, and then i thaught i flooded it, so after a half hour trying to clear the extra fuel, i discovered what happened and had to pull the motor and dump it out (no drain plug on skidoo) needless to say, i wasted more than the price of needles in wasted fuel and a lot of work. i have seen floats go bad before so you should still check boyancy :thumbsup:

tke your bowls off and put gas in them. then set the floats in them and see what they do.

i like to use a lightweight grease. like assebly lube, or some special stuff i have. but make sure it's compatible with the premix oil definately, the seal soaks up the oil, but if you change iol types that aren't compatible, they could harden or deteriorate after a while. you can install them dry, but it will shorten the life of the seal a little, which is ok if you rebuild regularly, but not if you want it to go 10 years on this build.i just changed a seal today that was put on dry and it only made it about 2 weeks, but that's a higher pressure aplication, and it was just starting to leak. when in doubt, just use the oil you'll be running. :wink:

i belive they do, but on the sled market. i use torco 32:1, but if your getting good results, stick with what you got. oils are formulated diferently to work alone, when you swithch,and even empty the old stuff out they mix in the engine and you don't know what you get. the wrong comb. could be bad and you wouldn't know it right away

it's called f'n troubleshooting- a bad habbit good mechanics develop :mad: a little bit of oil will temporarily make the reeds seal, and then you know there bad before you tear into them, since it started already and they got wet, you know to look elsewhere. have been doing this on sleds for years with a squirt bottle. the next step is to pour a capfull (a little more on small caps) of 2 stroke oil through the spark plug hole and barr it over slowly a couple of times to coat the pistons. if it starts after that, then you know there is a prblem there, cus not everyone has a compression gauge in their pocket.

yah, not looking to drag, just want better response. it looks cool though. i was thinking on putting sronger springs, changing the lever geometry, and eliminating any drag i can find. i'd apreciate any tips on clutch packs, mid plates, and pressure plates though. :biggrin:

sounds like mail box baseball tonight but seriously, they prolly have camras

what do the rears look like? i'm thinkin street radials.

what the hell s that? :woot: looks like an automatic holeshot. am i wrong? can i still double cutch? thx.

spray with penatratng blaster first, then go to town with the other stuff

if you don't have a t mic. you can trim a tooth pick so it barely fits against th slide, then measure the tooth pick. 25mm= 1 inch. try putting some 2 stroke oil on the reed where it seals against the cage and see if it starts.

and do you have pay pal?

make sure you don't have exhaust leak, you could have water in the pipe, but most likely spark. make sure you have even spark on both sides with the plugs out like he said, most likely spark issue

the mx course is just the only place to ride in town, but i will be hitting the beaches and trails and even an old coal mine. i dont want to be shown up by my own blaster on the beach. and burning up a clutch is no big deal for me. i'd rather pour money into it and have more fun than watch how i ride. thats how we do in ak. i will abuse my clutch once in a while, and i dont want to waste time on one that won't perform the way i want. i keep up with an r6 right now on the streets, and if i get the clutch dialed in, he's toast next summer.

did you leave your reeds dry when you put them back in? try just a little gas through the spark plug holes to get it fired up then use starting fluid to look for air leaks between the engine and carbs if it runs. if it dies, put your hand over the carb and feel the impulses. sounds like your reeds are worn and there's an air leak. btw what's the temp there?

adjust your airscrews when it's warmed up and then turn the idle down where it's supposed to be. after that, you should need the choke to get it started, then throttle it up a bit to warm it up and shee should run fine. make sure runs crisp throttle and not zingy or hesatates as that's too lean and you'll melt the pistons, you should be running br8's too. this is common in ak when sleds get tuned in the off season, but my shee's already tuned for cold wheather.

how much to ship the ricky stator to ak? and do you hve paypal?

well, i dont know what materials the friction plates are made out of, but if you get a kevlar disk hot, it starts grabbing when you try to ride it. i prolly just need to lube my cables, but i'm gonna do alot of doubble and tripple clutching at the moto cross park, and i need the fastest response i can get. a ms would make all the difference in the world, when time slows down in your head. my blaster was the same- worked perfect, but seemed like it could be made faster. would it help to pull the o-rings? and how much is a F.A.S.T. clutch? p.s. i mentioned kevlar because it, and ceramic are your 2 choices for performance in cars and trucks, and i've played with both, but this is my first shee :ninja:

omg oops. didn't see the year :biggrin:

i meant gas tank cover

do you still have gas tank plastic and grill? how much shipped to alaska?

i have a powerbomb 2-1 pipe for 05 raptor 660. want to trade for banshee parts. reeds, clutch kit, pipes, whatever. also i'm looking for gas tank/grill in not red. i have red. i dont like red. my bike is yellow

i want my clutch to moove faster. it works normal. but i want faster clutching. i don't know if it's stock or not, but i'm wondering what i shiuld do/ buy. if i'm gonna upgrade, i have to be able to ride it alot without it getting "sticky" or grabby like kevlar discs. i won't be able to dive into it for a couple weeks, but i need any opinions on what works best.

dude! that looks like the bike i just baught for 1000 last month. i'm tryin to trade off the red though. same dg grabbs f&r. anyways, i would gear down the sprokets if your gonna trail ride. it barely runs @ 5mph, which is alot faster than it sounds when your tryin to creep over or under something. way too much clutch action. besides, if your gonna mod it out, it will get harder to feather on the bottom end. i broke loose a week and a half ago and slid back down into a tree (T.G. for DG) :sweat: also, i would get some good nerfs- theres nuttin like gettin your foot caught on sometin in the woods. it just f's riddin for a while. as for everything else, listen 2 stroker :thumbsup: