AKheathen

what was the prob? u mean the parking area past the drag strip? what time? we were parked there, black tahoe on dubs. i barely made it back to fill up, and left the oil in the other tahoe, with my tools and x-over. i work @ red dog mine, but lookin for a job on the slope. u know where i can get parts for a 04 650ds baja. need gas tank and cdi/tach. also wiring schematic.

trim up a bit?!?! shave it all and get some under-roos :miner: <==monor, i mean miner.... they actually remove that "snap" in the throttle that everybody loves. i have one that i have been testing, and found that it actually takes 1.5 sizes more on the pilot vs. x-over tube, which means 2x likely to burnup with an air leak. i only run it for testin purposes.

does the bowl have that little brass tube sticking up between the floats? if so, the fuel level is too high. it acts like the overflow hole in your bathroom sink and drains to keep it from spillin over through the jetts. make sure you can blow air through the bowl vents. hows the spring in the bowl needle? it should only hold the needle about 2mm from compressed to absorb impact. did the guy have it jetted because of this? did he ride it a while with the mods, and after the jetting? oh, and whatcha mean jack shit?

if i wasn't up here at work right now, i'd been right over to help. i always find myself workin on things till 7am. lemmie know how the riddin @ jim creek is after the warming period. be home 2 wks wed. wanna get back out there, but with a non-froze shock :biggrin: what happened last week?

you probably messed up a wire to the stator. wiggle the wires all the way up to the windings with the meter on it. it needs to read something to work. or you could've damaged a winding. test between the 2 caps, one could've been bad, or poor connections; the spark will jump across a small gap, and it will still run.

yah, that dex cool worked great in the coldest snaps @ 70/30, but it doeswn't get cold enough in seattle to warrent. stuff is like oil that doesn't thicken when concentrated

you'll need to rejet anyways, so more reason to get personal with the carbs

i've always read the plugs without chopping, and then used them to go ridding. i can see it being easier to see if you have less than 20/20, or can't seem to get good light down inside. then again, i also torch my fouled plugs with mapp gas if they're not worn.

that's kindof a loaded q, but if you search "oil" you will see hours of literature on them

i've seen em on here pretty cheap. (cases, that is)

ok, jetting is the most important thing to do. if it's not jetted for your pipes, that would be why you're rebuilding now. the reeds depend on where you want your power. i've heard that blaster reeds are a really good mod, but talk to whoever does the porting, he should line you out on what will work best with the porting.

black/white, black/yellow, black= tors box, and its chaffing your little coolant hose. tape it out of the way :thumbsup: also, right where the hose passes the coil

spray while it's running, if the idle changes at all, you found a leak. clean your carbs! adjust the airscrews untill it idles the highest, then turn the idle back down.

none it removes rpm "snap" from low to mid for better controll in tight spots. it has to be jetted for, and "boost" is a misrepresentation. u asked :biggrin:

starting from scratch is the best idea yet. if you havn't been into your carbs, then draining all the fuel is not complete. >here we go< checkoff list- fill in and reply- you have new br8 plugs. you have checked for air leaks by spraying between the carbs an egine withwd-40 or propane. you have cleaned out the carbs, removed the jets, wrote down the numbers, cleaned, and installed. set the air screws at 1.5 turns, then adjusted when warmed up. synced the carbs checked the reeds

ok, somthin happened, so now u have to find it. for you're first q, the stator, cdi side, wires are red/white, and green/white. should measure 13.7-20.5 ohms. the other 2 wires are the pickup to the cdi, but i can't remember what the measure. unplug the little tors box next to the coil, and make sure the black/white wire in the harness side plug has no continuity with ground. make sure the black wire does. the flywheel didn't rattle did it?

yah, u got a module to replace my analog onstar with bluetooth interface, or aux input for zune? diesel mechanic @ red dog mine. i work on the worlds' largest tractor/ trailers, and it's boring as hell but it pays the best right now. => :shoothead: if it wasn't for this site :shoothead: <= years ago, i went to school for electronics, av-tech, and auto, but none was nessisary <---?spelling? hey west side connection, aren't u supposed to be moonlighting as a photographer?

i'm not sure how to do that with the small hole of an adjustible wrench,or did you mean crescent brand combo wrenches? it's called wrench doubling, and i can't rememer if i learned it in school, but it is an O.I.T. for mechanics. also, i'm not sure about the head of this puller, but you can snug the puller up, and when it's real tight and not letting go, smack the head of the puller shaft with a hammer, and pop! :woot: bes to do it with a socket on the end, so you don't have to grind the mushroom off. >also an old ass trick<

i have the same pipes, no snorkel, but lid back on for below zero, and i rode it at -10, and +20, and 310's were perfect! 27.5 mains were needed too. i also bumped my oil ratio up too, cus it was too much oil with all that fuel.

not to argue or anything, but that does bring up a point that you probably should check the float height while y0u're in there, and be carefull, the overflow tube sticks from the bottom of the bowl, diagonally through the middle of the floats.

wellcum, and congrats :beer: the funny thin about thumpers, and shees, is that the faster they make the 4 stroke, the more shit that comes out to make the shee even better. i grew up with a blaster, and, too, have idolized the shee, untill i finally got one. unfortunately, when you change temps 20-30 degrees, or make big elevation changes, the jetting will be different. and, yes, do start a banshee fund. modding is addictive as hell, and so is this site

x2 :biggrin:

to keep from mixin the slides up, use the dots to line up with the windows, and when they're in the right carb, the 45 degree recess on the bottom of the slide would point to the outside of the bike. best to slide thm in when the carb is level, because the needle can swing back and forth, and miss the hole. make sure not to mix anu parts up from right to left

omg, haterade dis morn. yah that filter is verry important to protect the motor, but from the vid, it sounds like the plugs are loading up, but when you rev it, they clear up a bit. drain the fuel, ad some fresh stuff, clean the carbs out, and if you don't have a lid, bump the jetts up. with out the lid, you are pullin less fuel. invest in a compression tester, cus that filter may have worn the cylinders quite a bit, or u could be lucky

no, i was talkin about puttin a breaker on the nut. i would just put it in 6th, if u can't build a tool