AKheathen

i believe they make a rectifier for that, but you can just use 2 in paralell. i'm planin on using a diode trio and a couple, or 1 high power regulator. what u doin with the r/s?

ok, i just read more on the trailtech, and you can run it off the light wires :shoothead:

i don't know how many watts those lights are, and wether or not it can handle the current of charging the battery and running the lights off the same wire. it should be able to work that way, but since you baught a 4ah battery, you might wanna just run them as per instructions. what it does, is split the current like a battery isolator. first giving power to the lights, while allowing the battery to power the lights as well, when the output from the stator increases, it sends the excess current to charging the battery. it's actually a nice feature, but when i do mine, i'm just going to build my rectifier/regulator, and isolate 2 or 3 batteries

man that's messed up. the trailtech can only handle a 4ah battery, you have to isolate the grounds to the rectifier from the lights, and not use the frame. you also have to ground the battery to the rectifier through the blue wire, so you can only use one battery

oh, sorry, the juggs are your cylinders. when you talk to a biulder, you tell them what kind of power you want. they should tell you what pipes, reeds, carbs, domes, etc, that will work the best with the port job. the sst pipes, may or may not work well for the power you want

and of course, you hav to rough it up for the epoxy to stick better, but that's not hogging it out in that area

like i was trying to say, you take from one area, and add to another to compensate

ok, what's going on is, that when you match the transfers, you are removing from the top, increasing volume, which lowers the preesure from the bottom of the piston, and slows airspeed. you compensate by adding material lower than the cutout

that's ok, the offer's still open to anyone. hook the power wires together, and run both grounds to the frame

hahahahahhahahhahahahhahahha :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: sorry, i just had to throw that in. if you guys have the same setup, there can be other reasons he beat you, and i assure you, it's not the boost bottle adding power. if you are jetted the same, it could be too rich on the pilot and/or needle taper- the boost bottle leans it out in this area the snap of the throttle on the low end is decreasing traction, and (actual point of the boost bottle on a banshee) the boost bottle is muting this snap, helping it to hook up. your engine or reeds may be worn more lastly, he may just be launching better, and out ridding you. spent the boost bottle fund, and put it into jets and needles to tune your carbs better, and your bike will pull better

on the newer ones, it's 12mm and 8mm, but you can fit 1/2" and 5/16" if you still have the adjuster on the rt side, i would move it to the chain side, and you'll have to use a washer or 2 to put in place of the other adjuster

signed it. iwas gonna do a vid of me riddin my daughters' wolfpack quad, but now i'm too scared of braking it :sweat:

how did you come up with that one? your sig says ptr mids. have you re-jetted and adjusted your airscrews? clean your carbs out good, and hold them upside down with the bowls off. the top of the float in this orientation should be 21-22mm from gasket surface, without the gasket on. you adjust by bending the tab that the needle clips to

ok, you have 2 options, the first may, or may not work with the older swinger. go down to lowes, or annother store and pickup a 7" long 1/2" bolt. it will fit in the carrier, but you will have to use 2 12mm hard washers on the head, and cut half the threads off. pair it with the shoulder nut. leave it loose and see if the axle stays strait. if the bolt doesn't go in, or is too sloppy, they have some brass bushings that you can replace the welded ones with on the swinger at lowes. or you could just grind the steel ones. or, probably easier and you should try first, leave the top and bottom bolts loose, pull the axle back so that it is square and the chain is adjusted, then turn the adjusters so that they just touch. lock the top and bottom bolts down, tighten each adjuster the same, so that there is just a little pressure, then lock the lock nuts.

don't forget about richening for higher elevation fuels

roflmfao, i was contemplating how the hell that little l/a battery could put out 100 amps for an hour. mabey a li/po, but that would risk a 50 foot crater

surf the site for biulders, and talk with them, ship your juggs to the one you like, and they will get you setup for what you want. for what your looking to gain, you'll probably need to change pipes. if you are ridding trails, you'll need a airbox setup, rather than pods.

idk, but would you be interested in going in on 2 of these? you could mount 1 and keep a spare, or mount 2 for 14ah. i live in alaska, so i could buy, shiped to your house, then you just send 3 to me :shrug:

i've only ever run kenda's, save for the pure sport fronts

yup

i would look into your oil to find out about separation with colder temps and the specific gravity of the fuel you are using @ 3500asl. the higher altitude fuel will require 2 sizes over sea level fuel, and, if it is separating, the jet size will need to be larger at the begining of a full tank because it is trying to pass the thicker premix, which could also account for the white/black insulator. just a thaught :shrug: also, if you actually aren't ported, check your compression next time you are at sea level, before you ride. 20's and +4 are risky for detonation below 1000asl

what about the filters?

ok, so i baught the walmart lights, like 4 different kind. wanted to keep high and low, and that look that makes everyone call her "R/C" i went with the bullet lights, and kept the one 50watt flood, and replaced the other with a 20watt spot i already had for accents in my room. then i installed the "hid" look ones for highs. i figured that you usually only need high beams when going fast at high rpm's so i left the bulbs for now. the bullets light the muthafuckin world. just thaught u might like to know

m8 x 6" long m12 x 6 1/4" long, but the shank is like 5&1/16" long, and this is important to keep the axle square. you may squeeze a 1/2" bolt in, and 5/16" on the bottom

what oil are you running?