AKheathen

just do a chp when you get the jets in, and check the insulator with a magnifying glas for metal specs, to be on the safe side

oh, and it's spelled four, not fore

wtf....

dude, i can barely read your sig pic, but i remember what it says :biggrin:

nitrogen rich air is different than cold air. what i was pointing out is that the nitrogen levels are highest at dusk and a few hours after, as the ground cools, but dissapates as the night goes on, and gets cooler. that is why you seem to have more power at the begining of the night, than 2-3 am, when it's even cooler. it's irrelivent, though, to the matter at hand. just a fun fact. the bottom line is they are boasting more power through cleanliness alone. i never use cleaners, juswt chevron. doesn't cost any extra, never had a problem with water and such, and i've the piece of mind knowing that it's not gonna build up without any nut sweat. we have 2 refineries that supply to all the chains, split up, i.e. cheveron/shell/texico, and the other one has the rest. like i said, kind of iffy about running harsh cleaners through a 2 stroke. who knows what's compatible with what oil. i say- run whatever clean gas, and let the oil take care of keeping deposits down

well most of that is just garble about it cleaning deposits, but the right oils will take care of that anyways. in your car, it would be good. i've been running nothing but chevron for 10+ years, and seen great results keeping any deposits down, however, i' always been told that the techron isn't good to run in a 2 stroke, because it keeps the oil from hanging around like it should, and i don't know much worse the effect will be with v-power. on a note about the nitrogen, i don't know if the v tech even has any effect on this, but nitrogen levels do change througout the day, and vary from place to place. higher levels do help the combustion process some. have you ever noticed that ylur car/bike runs much better at or just after dusk, when the nitrogen levels jump alot higher than durring a hot day when they are the lowest? i'm pretty sure some know alot more about it's effect on the banshee than me, but that's just my 2 cents :thumbsup:

i wouldn't bore it any farther than you need to. boring doesn't make power, and just shortens the life of your cylinders. make sure that you don't have any air leaks, and you're jetted right for your mods. looks like you could have been lean

you have everything to make the rz work? i get my anual in september or october. if you want to do a winter build on her, than, i'll have some coin to throw at some of that, plus it gives you more time to play with it before you switch it up. what kind of port is the 12 port?

hmm... those boysen pro reeds, like the ones in mikenick's pic really performed low-mid for me, and have less top end than stock. imho, carbon fibre reeds are more of a mid-top. there's no rubber on the chariot cages? just anodized aluminum for the reeds to slap? or am i not seeing a coating?

are you testing from plug cap to plug cap? also, check that the black/white wire does not see ground, and the red/black does

ok, not to add confusion, but what is the elevation where you buy the fuel? it's true that you need to jet down as you go up in elevation, but about every 2000-3000 ft the fuel at the station changes, requiring you to go up about 2 sizes more than the level below. what this means, is that if you are running sea level fuel at 5200ft, then you'll probably end up down about 280-290, like stated, but if you're buying at 2000ft, then goback up 2, and if you're getting it at 4-5000 ft, then go up even more. this is assuming that you were jetted for near sea level already

chrome, or are you gonna paint them

the choke trick really only works below half throttle, but a little restriction will richen up the mains. of course, you could always just throw in th next size main, and try it.

that oil might be washing the color off on the plug chop. all you'll see is a ghost ring, so you'll have to go off feel/sound to jet it right. i'm kind of thinkin outside the bun on this one, but throw a sock over each pod, and see if it runs a little better on the mains

what oil/fuel are you using?

what parts/mods you got for mx/woods? you can just change things up, so you won't be kicking your self when it's gone. build it to do what the 450 doesn't. and for fuck sake, take her out for a spin!

double check the float heights and choke o-ring

sounds good, but for piece of mind, spray it down with soapy water, and the worry won't be in the back of your mind.

what did you torque it to? i remember this coming up before about a head setup that doesn't tie the 2 cylinders together, and wether or not it will cause issues. i'm too lazy to search right now, but mabey dave remembers or probably has experience:biggrin:

do a plug chop, and play with the needle some more, probably back in the middle

what fuel are you running? round or flat slides?

like i said earlier, you probably need 27.5 pilots, but your airscrews are out kind of far. is that where it idles the highest when warmed up? what clip is the needle? also, same q's as mopar1

move, or remove the spacers, and throw in the vf3's. both will make a huge difference. don't forget to re-jet

wel, pipes are the biggest jump in power from stock. first ride is like "wtf happened. omg, that's power" and then you're hooked. i would start with pipes and pods, then the reeds. after that, save up for the topend and porting at once. you can't really just do a pport job without having to freshen up.

fo sho