bode1

I have two complete sets of Yamaha banshee fenders/plastics for sale. The first set is a set of OEM Yamaha all blue trimmed fenders, in fair condition. there was a hole in the tank shroud on top that was reapaired and covered with a sticker. I uncovered it for the photo, it could be easily recovered, I never noticed it untill I took off the stickers. There are no cracks, tears or areas that have been repaired other than the spot mentioned. $150. <br> <br> The second set is also OEM Yamaha White fronts and rears with a blue radiator and tank shroud, with a chrome grill, a set of Yamaha of Troy factory racing graphics kit and matching gripper seat cover (seat not included, only the cover). This set really looked great on the bike, but it must go. The seat cover is perfect and the fenders are near perfect with only some minor scratches. $250. Both sets are located in Cape May, NJ Would be willing to ship for the actual shipping charges. Not sure of the best way to ship fenders If anyone has any suggestions. let me know <br> <br> Both sets of fenders are a little dirty in the photos and look a bit better in person. <br>

That happened to me before, I just made sure I stopped infront of my buddy with a utility quad and he push started me the rest of the day. When I replaced it I safety wired the two halves of the kicker so if it did wear out again I wouldn't lose it and be stranded. I can just keep it in a pocket the rest of the day

I need a set too if anyone gets them made

Sorry to jack the thread, how much were you looking for your 28s ? Can you use the stock airbox boots and intakes?

bump

Anybody have a set of Fullbores they are not using. I am looking for a set of silver, blue, or white in that order. I am in the 08204 zip code about an hour and a half from Philly. Let me know what you have. Thanks

have a buddy looking for a 2 into 1 pipe. How much were you looking for that with shipping to 08204?

Do you have a sand dune area to ride down there or are those tires from a trip or something?

X2 I had plenty of questions and problems (on my end, not his work) He answered them all and was great to work with and the bike runs better now than ever

What's the weather like that time of year there?

I tried to pm you, but your inbox was full. Do you still have the temp gauge?

If it's like the unfinished Pro Circuits, I think you're supposed to use wd40 and a scotch brite pad.

I'd like the temp gauge if you can do $30 shipped. Where did you have it mounted?

LOL I just sent you a PM. I will look into the race gas. Pump gas is just convieniant for trail riding or if I run out I can get some off a buddy. We went to the Hatfield trails last year and never knew where we were gonna come out of the woods and with how much gas left. We were mixing it right in our tanks, I'm usually a little more anal about it with my ratio rite cup though. Kinda need to keep these carbs for now though. what do you think about locking the brass guide in with maybe JB weld or something for now? I could probally get another set of stockers off a buddy, but they would have the tors and we just removed them off mine.

I also backed the timing back to 0 degrees. I've been told that the 160lbs of compression is putting me right on the line of whether I need race gas or not. Comments on that anyone. Was thinking about picking some up and turning it back to +4. I don't ride enough that it would really cost that much more. Gas was over $4 2 months ago, and is down to $1,70 so I can just pretend that it is still up. Don't really know anything about race fuel, including the differences from one to the next and where to get it etc. Anyone know where I can buy it in the deep south of New Jersey, which one I would need, and best pricing?

I think I may have found my problem. The brass guide that keeps the slide in the proper position, backed out. I was putting the slide in correctly, however when the bike ran, it was spinning in the body of the carb, and running very poorly. I'm not sure if it was sticking out just enough to hold the slide in place until maybe the vibrations from the right side running made it spin free. Just odd, as the first day I ran it, it ran well. I also noticed that I was able to push the brass piece with my finger. I never even noticed that it moved before. Is that supposed to be tighter than that? I guess I'll just try it for now and see how it runs and if it runs like shit again, I'll have to lock it down with something. Any suggestions?

It's an M6 with .75 thread. I was able to find a nut, but took me all morning to check every hardware store within 10 miles. The problem is the fine thread. Everything else has 1.0 in M6

Gonna pull the other carb when I get up tomorrow afternoon and clean it then I'll try again with stator plate at zero and air screws turned in. thanks again Kev.

I said earlier that the right plug looked new unused and white smoke out right pipe. That was wrong it was the left, sorry about that. Also is the 25 pilot jet ok?

Kev, I pulled the left carb off. It looked good to me. 340 main and 25 pilot. They were both clear and the float needle was moving freely. I cleaned it out again and blew out the jets etc. The float height ? Is the tab or the bottom of the float supposed to be parallel with the carb body? They are close, I don't know if that is my problem. The only other thing I noticed that could have been a little off, was the cap seemed pretty loose when I took it off. Leaving for work in a few minutes, will try to mess with it again in the am.

Hello all. I just rebuilt my Banshee. .30 pistons and dune port by HJR. at the same time I had the TORS removed and switched to a NOSS cool head with 20cc domes instead of my Trinity 21cc. I have a K & N filter that I am now running with the lid off. I also had an adjustable timing plate set at 0* that I changed back to 4*. I am at sea level on high test pump gas. The bike started and seemed to run good. The next day, I tried to run it again and would not start. after about an hour i got it to start, and it seemed to be running intermitently on the right cylinder. i also noticed at that time while trying to get it to idle that the right cylinder had what appeared to be unburned gas coming out of the exhaust. Gave Kevin a call he sugested I set the gap in the stator, and check for air leaks. I used a business card as I had nothing else to set the gap with, and that seems OK now, and this is when I also changed the plate to +4*. The nest day, I wanted to see if it ran any better. It started right up, I messed with the idle and got it running enough to check for air leaks with brake cleaner ( is that right?). Now, the left cylinder is firing intermitently. I checked the spark and both looks good, It's been a fresh plugs everytime I've tried anything. The right plug looks brand new when I take it out. both cylinders have 160lbs when I test them. I haven't been able to get a good tester so I don't know how close that is. The smoke seens a little white coming out of the right pipe. HELP WTF

I didn't know autozone did that, I probaly could have saved some ca$hz

There were some in the for sale section for 199 + shipping new

You get what you pay for. It seems to be the one constant in life. Every time you cut corners you get screwed over. Do it right, and you don't have to do it over.

I need the brass lock nut for the TORS removal kit idle screw. Just got mine and it's buggered up. Anyone have one or know where I can get one? Gonna try the hardware store tomorrow. Anyone know what threads are on it?