boneyardbanshee.

this filled in the entire case on my bike and havent had a problem with it in two years

worth a look covers more area than the TM and alot cheaper.

this will be my first year. its about an hour from me. You can camp there if you want. I wont be there all day though. We are going to a big raffle at the Mountaineer Resort and Casino the same day but it will be alot of fun. Check it out

Anyone going? It will be on September 20th.

ya, lets start shit on some other site so then them dicks come on here and ruin this site. Like we dont already have enough bags of ass on here.

Put a little side pressure on it then, Take two wrenches, one on the nut, and one to make quick sharpe taps to the other. Works just like an impact...alot slower...but it will work and not mess up boots or threads from clamping.

+1 and unique

if I had the cash I would get them. But for now I ant complain about my Pro Taper bars they are nice

Pro Taper

oh and check to make sure there isnt alot of play in the rods.

take your new top end in and have them bore it to match. clean with kerosene or mixed gas, then put it all back together

you should pik up a Clymer manual. there is tons of info with pics. deffinatly a must have.

the bolt with the collar goes into the stem clamp then the top bolts into the end of the collar. the hose goes on the back side of the rad. right by the cap. sorry cant do pics

the rad. mount is connected to the sterring stem clamp. the hose from the head goes up by the rad cap.

no problem, I think they run about 25 bucks

they have one on ebay that says right in the discription that you can use it for a wrench. different design than the trinity one but it looks nice. more bling for the bike. that and having your plug wrench on the plugs, would free up the space under your seat for other things.

I lost all tension in the clutch cable. Same feeling as when I welded the ball but knew that wasnt it beause i bought a pancake bearing for it. Yes the nut did work its self off but it didnt bend the tab that prevents it from working loose, it sheared the other side that goes into the cluth boss. I have had this happen before but it usually just bends down the lock side wich is ment to bend anyhow. thanks for the lead on the basket. how has it held up for you?

dont know how I can be anymore specific about it. That is the exact name for it. Do you have a clymer manual? page 160 figure 39. I sheared the ear, tab, flap, that goes into the clutch boss. No cant take a pic of it because it is somewhere in the yard. oh nevermind i was just curious if that has ever happened to anyone before. Not like the washer cost that much. Anyone know where I an find a resonable priced billet basket? Your right dont see how anything else could have done it.

blasters are a fun beat on bike. we have a POS that we ride alot. wheelies great, and can ride the fuker on two wheels all the way around the yard. plus if we go on a ride we always have a spare for someone.

well I havent worked on too many dirtbikes, but a motor is a motor. My opinions would be: Both have happened to me in wich that happend 1. Best case scenario The nut that holds the cluth basket on has come loose. There should be some kind of lock waasher behind it that has failed. Easy fix, get a new lock washer. 2. The not so good scenario The clutch pushrod has welded its self to something in there. Depending on what it is will determine how muh its gonna cost ya to fix it. If it just welded on the clutch side you will need a new ball and maybe a new rod. You should be able to file it back to normal. In this case you should be able to get away without splitting the case. If it welded on the peice that is connected to the cable you wont be able to remove it from the case and you will have to split it. Now just because it doesnt come out doesnt mean it welded there. It could have just worn a flat spot in it. Either way you will need to split the case and buy a new clutch arm. That was the most expensive part of the repair for me. That and the pancake bearing that prevents it from happening.

It depends on what oil your run and what your perference is. Your jetting will be affected on it. Look at your plugs. If they look good stay were your at. I run at about 60:1 on Amsoil. Still a little rich. But I have been working on the jetting also. Was running 50:1 But dropping that 1 oz. per 5 gallons made the bike run better.

I was out jetting the bike, and while I was ripping it up the road i snapped ear that goes into the basket, on the clutch locknut washer. It was a brand new. Like two rides. It sheared it right off. didnt bend it at all. I was wondering if this may have been caused by a worn basket or if it this has maybe happened to some of you guys? I really cant afford a new basket unless I buy a stock replacement, and if I am going to have to buy one I would like to upgrade ya know?

too much oil?

if you are confident in your welding skills I would try it. but if you do I would replace the entire lenth of tube. dont try to splice a little piece in there. dont see why it wouldnt work.

they have one on ebay that fills in the entire case. I bought one about a year ago and it fits very well. think it is a little cheaper than the TM one also.