Midway USA

Ruined a rod needle bearing and crank today. What kind of crank do you guys recommend? Not wanting a stroker, just a new stock stroke setup.

As I said coating was not in the budget this time around. New pistons weren't either but no choice there if I wanted it fixed. Got my piston kit today and got the cylinders back on over lunch hour. Will get the rest buttoned up tonight and hopefully be done before it gets too late. Wiseco is definitely the way to go and Cometic definitely has a nice gasket set in the kit. Hopefully this thing will live a little longer this time around. Last time was a patch job reusing everything so I was surprised it ran this long. Thanks for all the input. Jerry

Having them coated is not in the budget this time around. Sad thing is when I got this Banshee I got it cheap because it had a problem with this same cylinder. It had stuck a ring because something had rattled around in the cylinder. I was able to free up the ring and clean up the piston but never had the inside circlip out. Never even looked at it. I'm sure the last guy damaged it putting it in. Oh well the price we pay for getting other peoples junk at a cheap price.

Just got a complete Wiseco 65mm kit with gaskets and needle bearings for $189 on E-Bay. Researched and priced lots of places and this seemed to be the lowest price for the same kit. Guy has a good rating, 11,000 some odd positive so should be a good safe transaction. Will hone the other cylinder to match tomorrow and be ready for assembly when the parts arrive. Need to deburr the chambers from the clip rattling around and dinging it up. I'll post how it all goes later in the week. Thanks for all the input.

I appreciate the input. We have used hypereutectic pistons in automotive applications and had some instances in perfomance stuff where they break. Banshees are performance out of the box so I will get a set of Wiseco. Found a Wiseco kit for $149 then $25 for pin bearings so not too bad a deal. Know of any places that carry Wiseco cheaper?

Machine work is free so that isn't an issue. Why would machine work be more. The cost to hone a cylinder is the same no matter what piston you use. Why won't the cylinders last as long?

Anyone run these? Considering a set mostly based on the price.

Took the cylinder in to the shop tonight and honed it to see how bad it was. Just barely cleaned at .040 over. What brand of pistons should I go with? Have been looking at the Namura but not sure what to think about hypereutectic cast for this application. We use them a lot in automotive applications with no problem.

Are the cylinders standard bore? How much and would you sell a right hand or only pairs?

I have a 1998 Banshee. Looking for a right hand std cylinder jug that would clean at .020 over. Had a cir-clip come out and damage my piston and jug. Would like to stay at .020 over since the left one is still good at that size. Thanks. Jerry

Fighting the same thing you are. Got mine at Tractor Supply today. Bulldog was the name of the company. The tube size on my jack is smaller than the hole so I will have to machine an adapter bushing. It is rated at 1500Lbs.

I have been using Rotella T 15W40 in mine. Mostly convenience related since I run it in my mowers and my sons Chinese 110 ATV. The local Yamaha guys said any motor oil works as long as it isn't moly based in any way.

Didn't even realize what the snorkel looked like beacuse it was already gone. Got my gas cap today and went for a ride on the trails at the spillway. My carb sync was the whole issue pretty much from day one. It ran the best it ever has. Not as much smoke, no fouled plugs, more power, and no bog off idle. It was great to be able to enjoy a ride!! Thanks for all the input. Jerry

We do lots of cylinders for the local Yamaha shop and chamfering is standard procedure on any cylinder we hone. I feel for what happened here, but in our shop unless we actually assemble an engine ourselves there is very limited warranty. Ultimately it is up to the engine assembler to know what he is doing and to catch any mistakes we may have made before ever assembling anything. Once damage is done it is hard to find out exactly what happened. People make mistakes but to instantly blame the machine shop is getting old for me. Machinists make mistakes but as I said it is up to the assembler to catch any mistakes and not put things together. I don't work for the machine shop in question by the way. Our shop is in Kansas and we do mostly automotive and diesel stuff.

Cool!! Thanks!! I'll mess with it when I get home from work tonight. Hopefully my gas cap will come in soon so I can ride and test the latest setup. Later. Jerry

I hope it isn't electrical but could be. Based on the way I originally sync'd the carbs and the difference it made when I did it using the sight glasses, I am leaning toward that being an issue. The bog seems to be gone off idle now and the idle is much smoother as well. Before I couldn't let it just sit and idle to warm up without it dying. I let it idle for 10-15 minutes last night and it never died and the idle speed was rock steady. As far as removing the snorkel, is it removeable or is it something I will have to cut off the lid? Not really wanting to cut the orignal box or lid. If I could come up with another lid I would consider it. Thanks for the help.

Forgot to list the air cleaner in this post. It has a single K&N with an aluminum flow adapter. Can't remember the name on the adapter. The air cleaner box and lid are untouched and I don't plan to modify them in any way. This would be the second time I have had the carbs apart. The first time one pilot was plugged but nothing else. This time I looked the choke and its passage over by recomnedation of one Yamaha mechanic. No issues there either. The first time I synchronized I did it by eye through the intake. This time I noticed there were sight glasses on the sides of the carbs to see the dimple drilled in the slides. I ended up totally changing things by doing it this way and it seems to run much different now. The bog off idle doesn't seem to be there. Haven't been able to ride it hard yet. Through a bout of forgetfullness and stupidity last time I attempted to go ride I lost the gas cap. I am waiting on one to get here and it should be here in a few days. The cylinders are fairly fresh. I had to repair a stuck ring when I bought it. We had just freshly honed the cylinders for the guy about a year ago and they got something in the right cylinder. It didn't harm the cylinder at all but squashed the ring land just enough to stick the ring. I went ahead and honed the cylinders a few strokes to make sure but the orignal cross hatch was still there. I took a jewelers file and filed the ring land to get a ring to ride free in it and smoothed the top of the piston. I have not checked compression and the cylinder that is fouling isn't the one that had the damage.

Didn't do the altitude thing right. I am at 1013 ft. Am I anywhere close on my jetting?

I have bascially a stock Banshee with FMF Gold Series pipes and FMF Power Core II mufflers. I am at 1780 ft and mostly trail ride. Not a lot of places to run wide open all out. My main is a 270 the pilot is a 25 and the needle is in the top clip. I have had issues with the left cylinder fouling. Oddly when it was cold out. It seems to bog a little of idle but runs great through the power band and wide open. One buddy at the Yamaha shop said it needed a 30 pilot and the needle clip in the middle. Another buddy at the same shop told me to leave it be. I just want to make sure I don't burn it up and can live with being a little rich over being lean at all.

I have bascially a stock Banshee with FMF Gold Series pipes and FMF Power Core II mufflers. I am at 1780 ft and mostly trail ride. Not a lot of places to run wide open all out. My main is a 270 the pilot is a 25 and the needle is in the top clip. I have had issues with the left cylinder fouling. Oddly when it was cold out. It seems to bog a little of idle but runs great through the power band and wide open. One buddy at the Yamaha shop said it needed a 30 pilot and the needle clip in the middle. Another buddy at the same shop told me to leave it be. I just want to make sure I don't burn it up and can live with being a little rich over being lean at all.

I have bascially a stock Banshee with FMF Gold Series pipes and FMF Power Core II mufflers. I am at 1780 ft and mostly trail ride. Not a lot of places to run wide open all out. My main is a 270 the pilot is a 25 and the needle is in the top clip. I have had issues with the left cylinder fouling. Oddly when it was cold out. It seems to bog a little of idle but runs great through the power band and wide open. One buddy at the Yamaha shop said it needed a 30 pilot and the needle clip in the middle. Another buddy at the same shop told me to leave it be. I just want to make sure I don't burn it up and can live with being a little rich over being lean at all.

4016 is the plug. My GasGas bud at the local Yamaha shop hooked me up with it. Still need to jet it down. What jets do I need? I have a fairly fresh .020 overbore, aftermarket Mikuni carbs, FMF Gold series pipes and FMF Power Core II mufflers. I am running 32:1 mix of Yamalube 2R. I had the carbs apart but was in a hurry to get it running and didn't look at the jetting sizes. I know bad, bad!! It seems to bog a little off idle but when it hits the power band it runs great. I live in Eastern Kansas with lots of humidity, if that helps.

Mine is a 98. Originally was told it was a 96 but found the numbers charts in a pinned post here and confirmed it is a 98 engine and frame. I am assuming still all original but you never know. According to the parts lists I have looked at the 87-89 have one part number and the 90-06 have a different number. I assume based on what I saw they would interchange if you used the matching brake calipers. Everything else appeared to be the same.

It definitely isn't too much oil. I do think it is a little on the rich side, though. It hasn't fouled any plugs the last two times I went to ride. The weekend it did foul it was 45 degrees out and I had my kid on with me putting around the trails. The guy I bought it from supposedly has a jet kit, stock carbs, and exhuast that he is going to give me. If I can get the jet kit I will try to lean it down a little and go from there. Thanks for the reply.

What is the difference between the 87-89 spindles and the 90-06 spindles? I have a bent spindle on my ride and I took a chance on an E-Bay spindle that cost me $8.00 shipped. It appeared to be the same in every way to mine except the spacing on the brake caliper mounting holes was closer together than mine. I ended up heating and straightening my spindle for now and it seems to be good. I need to put the one I bought back on E-Bay but I just wanted to know what exactly it fit first. Thanks for any help.