Midway USA

Is the axle straight? How much shipped to Manhattan, KS 66502

Thats the one. Kind of expensive but pretty good stuff.

I would tend to agree, but the parts guy here is an old friend and he steers us to the best bang for the buck over making money for them.

The local Yamaha dealer here had some NGK ones in stock for mine. They are better than the stock ones and were around $7 each.

I have talked to Rick at Rick's Motorsports Electric a couple of times. Two dealers I have talked to recommend them for any kind of stator and electrical parts. They are also working on an improved stator for battery conversions on Banshees.

Anyone use this stuff? Is it any good? The local VP warehouse has some and is selling it at closeout price. About 1/3 the price of the actual Yamaha trans oil. I currently use Rotella and have had good luck with it.

My regular Wiseco pistons have always been relatively clean on top both cylinders.

The other piston in the pic is a std stock one just for comparison purposes. One of these Vito's is almost clean on top and the other is totally black. They seem to be in good shape otherwise. I'm going to take them to work tomorrow and clean them up and measure them. Might be worth a try for free and the price of rings. I also got an upper end gasket kit with the parts so not a bad deal.

Cool. Thanks. I think I will keep them around for spares. Buying some standard bore jugs for spares and may try these pistons out some time. At least they are made by Wiseco. What the hell overbore is .42mm? I work in a machine shop and we bore and hone these jugs all the time and I have never seen that. I assume that would be .015 or somewhere in that area? Just looked for rings and .50mm is as close as it gets. That works out to .003 so I assume you could use a ring file and get the correct end gap? We've done that on some odd car applications but never on a motorcycle.

Got a box of used parts the other day and there is a pair of these pistons for a Banshee. As seen in the picture the ports in the piston are higher. The top edge on the exhaust side is notched out. It has 3889K stamped toward the edge. Has 9440 and 64.42mm stamped in the middle. What are these? What do they fit? Stroker? Long rod?

I was misled into thinking that the stator would help the lights. I talked to a guy at Ricky Stator and he told me that with the high output stator the lights at dead idle would be dimmer than the stock one. They were. I am trying to improve the lighting at idle but short of buying one of their flyhweels or going to a battery setup I was told it wouldn't happen. We ride at the dunes after dark some and when you go through a turn and the rpm drops the lights suck. Any suggestions? I did find the issue with the thing not starting. They pinched the insulation on one of the ignition wires and it would intermittently ground out. Got that heat shrank and all reassembled without any wires pinched. How many people don't actually have any problems with these stators? The local Yamaha parts guy swears by them and says the Moose ones and others they have tried are worse yet.

I got the broken screws out this morning. Talked to the kid I bought it from and he is going to give me a stock one he has so I will have a spare. May not put the adjustable plate on till after my trip to the dunes. Its all together and running so why mess with a good thing.

Went down to work on it after my kid went to bed. Went to take the stator off so I could put my stock one on the adjustable timing plate. Broke off the screws of course. So the stock stuff is back on and that is where it will stay. Any time I have messed with aftermarket junk I have trouble so I will leave it alone. Headed to the dunes for my second visit and it would be nice to make it home again without any problems. I will drill out the broken screws at work tomorrow. Is it worth it to advance the timing? Or should I leave it alone. The thing had plenty of power last weekend at Little Sahara so I'm thinking I should leave well enough alone. Not out to win any races, just want to ride the dunes without worrying about breaking down.

Got a 200 watt Ricky Stator with adjustable timing plate from an individual. It was supposed to be new in the box. Bolted it on the bike today and was disappointed to find that my lights dim worse now than with the original stock stator. Also had a problem starting it at one point and had to turn off the light switch to get it to fire. Once it fired up the lights worked and it would start with the switch on after that. Do I have a short? Anyone ever gotten a bad one new? I doubt I can send it in and get a new one since I paid cash for it. Should I cut my losses and put the stock stator on the adjustable timing plate and go from there? How can I check for ground problems?

I had the engine and trans completely apart to change a bad seal. Didn't see any odd wear. I put Rotella 15w40 in it as suggested by one tech at the local dealer.

Sold my old Banshee about a month ago. The guy calls me tonight and says it jumps in and out of 5th gear and makes a noise. What could possibly make it jump in and out of that gear only? Says it works fine through 4th and no noise.

That screw is so you can drain the fuel bowls. It should be tight.

Pics upon request 1998 all stock Purple/yellow Banshee - $1700 OBO Red tank and radiator cover decent - $40 Black tank cover warped and rough but no cracks - $10 Two boost bottles - $10 ea Rear brake hub no rotor - $10

Got a better gas tank cover but still needing a decent radiator cover/grill assembly in OEM black.

Paid too damn much as new is $60 area and I gave $48 Still need a Grill and they are $60 area new and only shown in red and yellow in Bike Bandit. Do you have the entire grill/radiator cover/tank cover assembly? If so shoot me a price and if it is reasonable I'll buy it and put all the rest back on E-Bay.

Got a gas tank cover on E-Bay but now need black OEM radiator cover with grill.

Looking for a black OEM gas tank cover and grill for my 98 Banshee.

The guy I got it from actually had decals on it "Grape Ape". Shi**y pinstripe then clearcoat over it all too. Took me two hours just to hot tank the clear off and scrape the stickers and pinstripe. Now all I need to do is get some warm days to wet sand the scratches and gouges out of the fenders. Oh well, it runs and I have been able to ride while my 98 is out of commission!!

Cheap and Banshee can get along if you are careful!! Got my 95 Shee for $200. Cherry frame and very little wrong with the engine. Had like new FMF Gnarly pipes and Power CoreII silencers. Took all the good stuff to put with my 98 engine (in process of complete rebuild) and all the stock parts left went to build the Grape Ape. $100 later ($300 total) and I have a beater to ride and will soon have a pretty nice machine too. I have one advantage, though. I work in a machine shop and have free reign of the machines 24/7 so engine work is free except for my time.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? FMF Gnarly/Powercore II Silencers 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all? Stock box w/lid 4) What is your elevation? 1100Ft 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 280 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 60 or above 8) Do you have a port job? No porting 9) What kind of carbs? Stock Mikuni 10) What size carbs? Stock