NickisGod

thoes are trex cylinders.from what ive read they are a pita to get them running right, your better off with a cheetah or cub

yes its a cub, and im pretty sure is nikils or w.e. its called. the damage is onlt on one side of one cylinder, do u think it be safe just as it is?

so i finally got around to striping my shee down after my right cylinder blew and i was kind surprised by what i found. i noticed my carbs intake boot was loose on one side allowing air into the reed cage prematurely causing the left side of the right cylinder to burn up leaving a shit stain behind. the pistons aluminum seems to have binded itself to the walls and some one recommended muriatic acid. i just though i post up the damage to see if anyone had any other suggestions.

Post without pics sucks comon get them up there

here's my flywheel. Its super light,almost unbeivable and has unliminate throttle response. As soon as I gas it the tires roast and about the rpms considering its a two stroke that's a good thing thing because I'm always off and on the throttle so it makes it easier for me to corner and ect

i kinda see fiberglass and carbon fiber as being bad materials to recomened to someone whos mostlikely going to get muddy and or ride anywhere where sticks and stones are present. plastic gets its strength from being flexable on the otherhand fiber glass is a rigid fiberous material thats proned to chips cracks and scratches. im not saying this cant happen to plastic but i no my lakers are in A++ condition even after owning them for over a year. whenever i think of fiber glass on anything i get images of broke snowmobile hoods lol

if i were you, witch im not, id stick with either full bore or laker because of the one piece front. ufo and maier only offer replacement plastic much like the oem design and somehow get cracked broken or fly off at high speeds. laker has a more boxier mx style and fullbores are rounded and seen on alot of drag bike. i guess its all preference, i got lakers

ive had issues with fireball, i ordered a RED cool head and when i recieved it the invoice said red but the coolhead was blue. i called and complained and the guys argued with me and said there was no way i said red even though he hand writen red on the paper. i took me a week or calling and argueing before i made some progress and got them to reemburse me for ship back witch they were very reluctant to do. over all, i hate fireball and would never buy from them agian

still forsale anybody?

They are setup for trail and track and gave me a lower center of gravity and want to gain some more clearence by useing a larger shock. Elka set the weight up for 170lbs

these are 17 inch shocks!!! center bolt to center bolt.

I got a plus four pm me

bingo.... josh claims it ran good for the first few hours after rebuild. idk if josh properly broke in his engine or what gas ratio he was using but the hole in the exhaust pipe was leaking oil on his case. also his pipe is bent? its the strangest thing, needless to say all these problems exist on right side of the bike.

bump

elka shocks for sale anyone? these are long travel shocks that will fit either janeseen or roll design a arms. they are larger than a standard shock so remember to check your a arms out before considering. i will get a measurement soon from center bolt to center bolt. they've only been use for less than a year and are in great condition. $515 Shipped

more than likely i wanna see the clip!

i doubt it. a yfz shock is much longer

for the front all u need is the spindles, calipers, hubs..... the brake disk are the same if that helps. and about the rear brakes, no agian banshee use an older style disk and caliper hanger witch is larger than the yfz & 250r. i seen some guy convert his but i dont know the exact steps he took. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117753&st=0&p=1025403entry1025403

im curious to know too deff post your conclusion

shit i have elkas all the way around. i wish i would of seen a cheetah kit when i was doing my top end. my only issue is id hate to have my case trenched, i remember seeing some guy on the forms a bit back blow his cheetah crank into a million pieces.

im on your boat. im only 500ft above sea level 18cc domes on a 4mill cub and only get 145......

i hate to say it but the price it cost to have your bike ported and being reliable will cost the same as rdz cub kit on ebay. you do the math...... dont forget shipping in your calculations because no builder will ever ship back for free.

i built a 4mm cub from rdz racing. he has a bunch of kits on ebay check them out pretty reasonable prices. ill let u in on a lil secret, cubs will rip your arms off. do the math, rdz has the best bang for your buck.

i can honestly say that today is the first time ive ever seen them before. its hard to believe a performance hindering product would survive in that banshee aftermarket, to me they look like stock jugs with a larger sleeve. notice they dont show the ports

porting will only take your bike so far........ the kit is a bigbore kit, adding an additional 34cc, thats pretty significant if u ask me. there is a famous atv quote from an unknown origin "there's no replacement for displacement." adding more cc in my opinion is better than porting, but combining the 2 is a killer combo.