dirtydownunder

i have wickeds and i think they are pretty good, not bent yet.. running stock shocks with longer arms, will make a for a worse, bouncier ride. when buying new shocks, you have to say they are for +2 arms aswell.

but they serval purposes haha.

$55 for the standard size chariot billet impeller on its own.

anything bigger than 8x10 ?

if you had bad experience's with bored cylinders, id say it was human error. 64mm is stock bore size, 66mm is max bore size, anything in between is happy time. start stripping her down and see whats up. take the stator cover off and try turn the flywheel, (just incase the kicker hasnt done anything stupid) if the flywheel is stuck (seized) pull the cylinders off. big bore wont do much for power, but porting them will make the world of difference.

you can change em in the frame.

yeh call or message HJR, he will tell you exactly or get you pretty dam close. my dune port with t5's has 330 mains with stock pilots.

ah heh, not tap but tape. yeh, dont do that.

dirt man, in yo carbs , the fuel valve/seat is sticking open and when you tap it, the dirt is moved and it seals up again (then dirt finds it way back and causes it to leak) clean the tank out with the pingle out and clean that too. pull the carbs down, take the bowls off and the float, and clean everything with carby cleaner, then dry it off. when you have the floats off, shake them near your ear to see if you can hear fuel inside (fuel inside means, throw them away). then put your floats back on and adjust them to spec (i dont remember the stock float specs, ill find em when im home (20mm (.80") ) if you want to test if they now seal, get some fuel line onto the main fuel IN on the carb and blow into the line, when you push the float up into the carb, it should seal and you wont be able to blow air into the line and when you let the float move down away from the carb, it should let you blow all over its face.... if you can always blow into the line with the float up into the carb, you need to look into getting a new needle/seat.

yep, neutral is only there when you dont want it.

you can get the rebuild kit off kev, so you get all your stuff in one lump and you put it together. ive heard good things about wsm's but never tried them. wiseco's are tried and true.

looks fukn awesome man . not good packaging for that poor cub.

are you using platinum, iridium or funky plugs to chop with ? they are expensive plugs to tune on. as sav said, cut the threads and check out the lower part of the porcelain. i couldnt tell you what alky should burn like tho....

well 30 is a bit fat, you could try a 25 at around 2 turns from seated. (fmf say to run 30's but peeps get away with 25's (stock) your needle is leaner (if you mean 2nd from the top) you could play with that (richer = clip down, leaner = clip up ) the main effects everywhere. pilot is more 0-1/4 throttle but is still in use over the whole range.

lean off your main. at around 2500feet, say to a 260main. because your riding at a higher altitude, there's less oxygen and you need less fuel. removing the lid, might make it too lean. remember to re jet on the way down aswell.

first quad ?, your doing it wrong. haha.

wats done to it now ? if its stock, some pipes, timing plate, cool head with smaller dome and air cleaner setup will give noticeable gains. if thats already done, porting will wake her up. theres always something to do to a banshee to make it faster.

list your parts list man, might help.

awesome, i reckon these servals were made just for me thanx calvin !. good work andy !.

haha yeh, shit's to steep to go down backwards, it will just flip on you. been there hahaha. best thing to do, is before you run out of speed, try to turn around while you have momentum.

it always costs me more to build an engine, but to me building it is half the fun. id never buy a built engine.

try some spark plug caps they are cheap and are know for faulting over time. when you change the caps, cut about a 1/2" off the end off the coil spark plug wire and screw the new plug cap on. check the normal stuff like pick up gap on the fly wheel (.017"-.020") and coil resistance. have you tried any other jetting and needle positions ?.

does it sound the same and just looses power or does it pop and fart around ? does it free rev cleanly ?

haha is that what you say to everyone attempting, then watch them not make it. that was a monster originally and looked like youd needed a bike to match.

was the bike modified at all ? whats the min banshee requirements you rekon to make the glen burn ? and ha ha at poo poos