slowblueshee2

58 by 66 makes a 396

My buddy and I have matching 4in arms and he sent his stock shock to works for a heart transplant and I can tell you it was night and day better. It made you realize how crappy the stock shock is and also made the front feel like it would benefit from some new shocks which I never noticed until I rode his machine.

1/2 the bore x 1/2 the bore x stroke x 3.14 x number of cylinders. But you have to move the decimal point for example a stock engine is 64bore x 54stroke. It would be 3.2 x 3.2 x 5.4 x 3.14 x 2 = 347.25888. Say a 10 mil dm. 78bore x 64stroke. It would be 3.9 x 3.9 x 6.4 x 3.14 x 2 = 611.32032

Wonder if a big enought coalition could coax pacific raceways into making a sand drag track.

Seen you at coos bay snopczynski last labor day. Raced your buddies 421. Does C&M make to beverly that weekend. Thinking I will be there that weekend. Going to florence the weekend before.

I am curious also how big the turnout is. I would like to check it out if there is some good racing to be had.

What is the date for the big weekend at beverly this year. I might try to make it. You are the first person I have heard say anything good about C&M. I'm ready to run his 10mil with my little 4mil.

That is just the thing I want to make some big power at the most affordable price. That is why I will only go with a 10 mill stroke and stay with the stock cases. If I had more money I would go with billet cases and probably an 18 mill dmx, but that just isn't practical for me. I just have a goal of taking a heavy bike in a standard frame into the 3's. We will see ain't gonna be easy or cheap.

I don't think I could go with the twister after watching mccoy's 10 mill dm on youtube wax lc performance's 20 mill twister. Anyhow I would like to stay with standard cases to save a little money. Plus I don't think twister offers a 78mill motor in a 10 mill stroke.

Just wondering how much more people are getting out of the 10 mill dmx compared to the 10 mill dm. Also cuious about the price difference. Any input greatly appreciated.

I had all three of the shifter goodies, shift cam with bearing, star and shift pro. and like was stated previously is would shift way too easy like accidental bumping. I ended removing and star and when back to a standard star but still run the shift cam and shift pro. I couldn't be a happier camper. Really positive but no overly soft. Hardly ever miss a shift now.

Those should be fine. I run a ported 4mil stock cylinders with a 4in swinger on20x11x9 8 paddle extremes for play tires. Had 20x11x9 8 paddle haulers loved them so when they wore out after about 2 and1/2 years I bought extremes in the same size.

explain to me how a longer stroke that rises higher and a longer rod that raises higher would raise the exhaust. I have a ported motor and I took out the base gaskets to bring the exhaust down a little. Kevin Herr said the transfers are unattainable with the stock stroke cub on a 4mill. But my future plans will be to deck the cases or the bottoms of the cylinders.

Hey guys, I have been heavily contemplating stepping up to the cub cylinders. The few people I have talked say they are light switch power obviously because of the high exhaust port timing. Just curious what people are doing to counter this. I would like to have a broad power band, well as broad as you can make a cub. Anyone here of maybe taking stock stroke cubs and trying them with the 4 mill crank to lower the exhaust. Or is there some reason you can't. Thanks!

Never messed with the bigger mikuni's, but it sounds like your main jets are too big if she bogs only on the top. Check your plugs and adjust accordingly.

What do ya mean when you say the plugs look burnt. Glad to hear you are getting closer to having her dialed. Your pipes are gonna heat up to hot to touch pretty quick. Especially after a hard run. Just warming up I would say in a matter of a minute your gonna feel some good heat.

Well we ran my buddies bike with the t6's. His bike seemed pretty happy with 140 mains and 50 pilots. We are about 500' in elevation and do all of our riding at sea level. Still surprised that thing could ask for that much jet. Good luck.

There are no spark arrestor laws in the oregon dunes. As for the prejudice, it seems par for the course. Just ridiculous.

It is kinda hard to believe that thing is asking for more jet, but I guess it is possible. I sold my 28's to a buddy that is running t6's, v-force 2's. Gonna dial him in this weekend. I let you know what we end with on the back. It is a similar setup to what you have. It is real cold where you are at right now? That can play a big role too.

Just remember a real rich condition can create alot of heat also. That is why I asked if she would rev crisp. I ran stock carbs on my ported 350 and she asked for a 410 main believe it or not. When I switched to the 28mm pwk's I was running a 150 main and 50 pilot. Thought you might be fat but from the sounds of it your lean. I had bigger jets at first than 150's and it would flubber on the top. Hope that helps some.

Your pilots should be close where your at. If you get too much pilot you will make it real lazy off the bottom. Just go up in the main and see what kind of results you get.

Pump gas tends to smoke alot more than race fuel. It also seems to take a little less jet. Not much. But if she runs crisp all the way through you are probably real close on the jetting. Do some plug chops and see what you get.

What does it do on a dry rev if you hold the throttle open for a few seconds? Does it rev crisp or bog out? I know I had some weird plug readings when I first messed with the 28's.

what are you runnin for fuel and premix. Seems to me that jetting shouldn't be super fat or anything.

You are running dual carbs I assume. If so a 190 main jet seems huge. My ported 4mill runs 160s in 35mm pwks.