scottd480

Hello all, Long time member here, just haven't posted much. I am putting an extended 4" swingarm on my 'Shee and buying a new chain...just wondering how many links will be required, so I can order it without any screwups. (standard style swingarm) All advice on this is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Just wanted to inform everyone here at BHQ that Kevin (torotwister) is totally legit. (He's a personal friend of mine) You will not find a more honest and straightforward person to deal with. I have seen the product he sells over a long period of time, and it is absolutely as described and first rate. Anyone that purchases these shocks will not be disappointed. Hope this helps potential buyers.

I got a set of the Flys, and they're pretty good quality for the money. I would definately go with the aluminum bars over the POS carbon steel; they're lighter and stronger for sure. The steel ones tweak way too easlily.

X 2. I know there's lots of opinions on this subject, but this has been my experience as well. I will only use foam filters at this point!

He's right...I had my IMS tank professionally painted on my other Banshee some years ago, and it did not last very long before peeling off. It was disappointing, and a real waste of money. Sure thought it as a good idea at the time though!

Can someone tell me if this case saver works with a 15 tooth sprocket??? What is the limit?

Easy answer....she's a DOUBLE-DIPSHIT!

I have gone through exactly what you are describing. I refuse to run K&N's anymore, because in my experience they always pass a little bit of silt. Didn't seem to matter how well I oiled them either. If you take that K&N and look towards a bright light through it, you'll see lots of pinpoints of light...they really are quite porous. I don't trust them, and will only use a good 2-stage foam filter. These clean the incoming air a LOT better, and don't seem to detract from the power...at least it's worth it to me whatever small tradeoff might exist. Why dust your motor when you don't have to? Hope that helps.

I'm getting ready to do the stroker crank and porting conversion on my own Banshee. I vote to just do it right with the 4 mil the first time. After having a previous Banshee modded out to the max with a stock stroke, I wouldn't even consider not doing a stroker the second time around. I don't believe you would be disappointed.

x 2! C'mon, fill us in...I'd have plenty of uses for that!

Try picking up a pair of 30mm OKO carbs...great bang for the buck, and you can usually get them for around $200 new.

Just get rid of the plastic POS, and get a billet aluminum neutral switch cover. End of problem.

I've had one of the 200w RM Stator units in my Banshee for over a year, with absolutely no problems. As far as I'm concerned, they work great...and the price is right too. Thumbs up in my opinion! :thumbsup:

Can anyone comment on the braking improvement that the YFZ calipers give the Banshee? I've always hated the lame braking force that the stock front brakes give. (besides the fact that the brake lines are rubber) Is there a good improvement in "bite" with these, when you come down hard on the lever? Or, in other words, is this switchover worth it?

So it is true that the YFZ calipers do bolt directly to the Banshee spindles??? I always thought that since they are double-piston and larger, that they wouldn't be a direct bolt on. Can anyone verify this for SURE?

I'd be checking for an air leak if I were you. Take some carb clean (flammable) and spray around the intake / base gasket surfaces...see if the rpm's change. If so, there's your leak. Also, don't rule out a possible crank seal leaking. Hopefully you don't melt your motor down before you find the problem.

I'd like to know how others have modded their shift star as well; getting ready to do this mod to my banshee also. Any tips and suggestions?

Hello all....I've been hanging around this forum for some time, but haven't posted yet. I have just recently gotten back into banshees after doing the four-stroke thing for awhile. I have a 2003 that I am considering installing a 4 mil stroker crank into. After scanning all the threads on here, I see there are two ways to accomplish this. I am wondering which is the best and most reliable way to space the cylinders for piston clearance with this setup...what are the pros and cons of both methods, or does it really make a difference? I have ALL of the external mods implemented on my motor, and now want to take it a step further with the stroker crank. Please help me to accomplish this in the best manner. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks a bunch.