DallasGDub

Wow.... I normally say only deal with people with good feedback and that are regulars, but this case is a little different. If all is true, this guy had a lot of good people speak up on his behalf and go to bat for him. Alfie even dealt with him before. He is also a HQ premium member. I am willing to bet no one seen this coming on any of these sites. He has good feedback on a few websites. No matter how hard you try, or how many precautions you take, it can still happen. You never really know who you might be dealing with reguarless of what went down before. Packing and sending parts like this is just as bad as taking the money and running. This hurts all sellers and buyers IMO.

Man I try to wrap every part. Either in plastic, bubble, or paper. Put it in the seller feed back section. People need to know.

Wow, seems to be an ongoing theme with the Collar Bone injuries. What protection can I use to help prevent this?

None I want to build a 4mil after summer.

On the quad, My biggest break was my foot in several places, but it was not really a wreck. I just landed wrong on a small jump. (w/boots on…wtf…). I still have no idea how I did that much damage. I wrecked pretty hard casing a jump, hurt my wrist, and ribs. I do not know if I broke anything, but it felt like it. Cracked my chest protector. I also pulled my right elbow pretty bad. Took almost a year to heal from that. On my old dirt bike, I broke my arm, right hand, and 3 fingers after running into a tree.

Thats a good deal. That saw blade is sick.

Both carbs need idle screws, both carbs need to be set and synced together. I posted where to get the second idle screw. I posted pics where to put it. If you have 2 out of sync carbs, one pipe will sound diff. You have diff air/fuel ratios going into each cycl, so it will run like shit. Yes it is that simple. I have read over this thread a few times. It is pretty clear what needs to be done, and all you need to know has been posted. It is up to you to take the time to read it, maybe trying using the advice given. If your friends think they know what is wrong, then try that, let us know if it works.

I posted the link where to get one.

As said before, when you remove the tors, you have to install your own idle screws. The orig idle screw was located on the top of the tors that was taken off. Your carbs are moded stock carbs. This is not a factory kit or mod. It is aftermarket. Do you see that big gold screw with the lock nut in right carb and not the left? That is the missing idle screw. You need another screw like that to go in the hole where your finger is. Looks like it is threaded in the picture. this is done when the you tap it out for the new screws. Link to where to get one, http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=359 Picture from FAST of an after marcket idle screw, not the factory idle.

I meant to say the type of terrain you ride. If your trails require more clearance, then go with 20/21. (stuff like stumps, rocks, logs, trenches, ext... you will need that exrta clearance). I really only see MX guys run 18/20 or 18/15.

Wont be able to tell in the pics if it goes all the way and is threaded. You also have to look at both sides of the carb itself. Not just the right side of one, and the left side of the other.

When people remove the tors, they install the large gold Idle screws. The kit comes with a shitty tap, and a Idle screw. You pretty much tap into the side of the carb wall and make your own idle screw hole. I notice that the idle screw on the right carb is on the outside, check and make sure that it is not in the same spot on the other carb. (look in the middle in bewteen the 2 carbs). If not, see if the outside of the left carb has threads in that hole in the pic or if it goes thru to the other side of the carb wall. It is possible it came out. A new idel screw kit will set you strait. You will have to tap it out or simply screw it in if it is already threaded. About the missing Air Screw, again look down in between the 2 carbs. You should see the small air screw on the left side of the right carb. (Same spot it is on the left carb). The carbs are pretty much the same. The left has a choke, and a tube that runs into the right side where the choke would be. They have diff bowls, and slides. The idle screws are not stock, so they may be in a diff place.

In the trails I like a 20 or 21 up front. (Depending on the back.) When I got 18's on the back, I run 20's. When I got 20's in the back, I run 21's. The read squats somewhat and that is a good thing. Clearance issues will really be determained by the area you ride. I know XC guys who run 22's+ in the desert. The tire to use should be judged on the type of riding.

Well in his og post you can see it is a JArm. That's when I knew it was not yours. jon321, great deal by the way. Very clean bike.

If you use a power washer, careful if you have an oring chain. It can and will blow the rings out. It did it to me. It was about time for a new chain anyways. When you first posted this bike I thought it was Spurdy's bike. I did a double take on the mods. lol...

My old set up was +4 in the back, +3+1 in the front, and a +6 swinger. The bike felt really stable with the wide set up. I never seen 2 wheels flying around corners. I loved it. In the tighter stuff, I knew if my front fit, the back would to. The +6, not so much fun. It was not really an issue until I got into some jumps, and tight turns. It will try and buck you on the jumps, and the turns you have to slip the clutch to whip that bitch around pretty quick. It had me beat up after an hour of riding. I think +2 or +4 would be the limit, for me any ways.

If you do not go that much, you can just rent rear paddle tires w/rims at the service center on location. I want to say it is about 30-40 a day. you can call and check prices. They are the only dunes I go to, so I have nothing to compare it to. But It is always alot of fun. Lots of sandy trails, small dunes, big dunes, flats, nice camping areas, onsite parts shop. If your not down to camp, you can get a room in town and ride your bike back and forth from the park on the marked side streets to the hotels. some streets are used only during the day. But they have maps on what roads to take. You can even ride into town to get food, beer, gas, or whatever. Or just drive you car. The town relies on ATV'ers, so they are really cool. (So do the cops and park rangers, so keep that in mind. lol....)

Most of the site sponsors have a good track record of customer service from BHQ members. Word of mouth turned the builders onto this site to become a sponsors. Not the other way around. I know I personally recommend builders I know, that have helped me, or that have done business with people I know, and most important they stand by what they do. Some just happen to be site sponsors as well. No ass kissing. Has nothing to do with only using site sponsors. You cannot simply drop cash for a banner and expect people to knock on your door. That only comes with your creditability as a builder or supplier. Posting is alot easier than standing outside someones shop and ask if they do good work or not. I think the original post was asking who are the bbyz and why are they claiming to make a stock cyl beat any cub. No one has really stepped up with proof about the claims these guys make on the website, so the website is all we have to go by. Not really talking about if he is a cool guy or not, just what the shop claims to do and some of the items they sell. Good work and honesty sells itself.

I run 20x11x8, and 18x10.5x8 20x11x8 is on a very short list of tires you can find. I think the 9" rim is the most common size and you can find all kinds of tires. I have not seen 19" tires.

AC ProPeg Blackline. Great product, very wide and safe. After breaking my foot in several places and a hyper extended ankle, I ALWAYS run heel guards. I did not run over my leg or anything. I landed with my foot to far back on the peg. My foot collapsed and the peg forced my toes up, then my body forced my heel down. I was wearing full size MX boots when this happened. My toes touched my shin as my foot snaped in half pulling my ankle with it. The break healed in a few weeks, but the pulled muscle in my ankle lasted about a year. Sometimes it stills gives me a sharp pain I guess from the way it grew back.

I play on PC. dallasgdub, (until they make a keyboard for the xbox at least, I am on PC for all FPS lol...)

A skid plate will make it even lower unless you go with the a chain guard type. Really depends on the area you ride in. Some places I can use 18's, but most normal trails I am runnin the 20's.

The air screw sits @ the bottom right of the carb and is flush. Do you have Tors? Sounds like maybe one carb has a idle screw mod, and the other does not. Your right, pics will help say what is really going on. As far as the little bog, I had it on stock carbs. I just learned to work it. It was not a huge bog. It is all in the tuning/sync, and your pilot and needle settings.

Even if the YFZ shock was shorter, the shee shock is better IMO.

Thats border line. What's your compression? You should be able to run 93oct @ the pump. I was pretty close to the same mods and @ 500', I was sitting at 155psi. 93 worked for me with no problems.