Wildcardracing

Cub vs. Cheetah will depend on what kind of power your looking for. The cub will be a little cheaper to build, but the port durations are very aggressive...some would describe it as a light switch type power band. The Cheetah in stock form has a smoother power band more orientated towards low to mid power. I recommend the 115mm (Longrod) crank as it creates less side-loading on the piston skirt and is therefore more reliable. You will want a 68mm bore to achieve 421cc.

You could go with some pipes, timing advance, filters, Thats some quick easy bolt on stuff, a good place to start.

I was thinkin that too. 21's will still be a good dome choice, might get away with some 20's ok.

21cc domes should be just right for your application.

Lookin forward to doin business with him again someday. Great buyer.

Thanks for the feedback :thumbsup: Glad to see they got to you quick and in good shape.

What fuel do you want to run, and what altitude do you ride at?? Need to know this to give you any advice on your domes. Also do you have any porting as this will usually lower compression some. As far as 1 or 2 piece, I've heard the one piece heads are nicer to install and have less o-rings...but I'm partial to the Noss brand heads, which are a two piece.

Stock blaster wheels are 8", stock banshee-warrior-raptor wheels are 9"

You're not going to get that much compression without going through what deckhieght described, but you can get away with .030". That's the most I'd reccomend, because your squish gets pretty tight beyond that. That should put you right in the 135 range and you'll be OK on pump premium.

LOL...I can't even seem to find the time between port jobs to go to the dunes 30miles from my house. I hope you guys have a great weekend. Let me know what you all think of how Tylers bike performs with my porting. It's setup for low end grunt. I hope he was able to get it tuned good for the trip. -slo

My porting prices start at $200 for a trail port up to $300 for single exhaust drag porting, with no bore. With a bore/hone and new pistons it would be in the $500 range for a nice dune port. You've got to look at what you're getting. Just because a cylinder is being ported doesn't mean it is in need of a bore. I don't bore cylinders unless it's neccissary, because I like my customers to get the most out of thier port job. I'd hate to short them one bore size for nothing. IMO, if a builder can control his porting tools then a bore isn't manditory with porting. Did I mention that I have a whole list of very satisfied customers, HMM maybe I need to bump my prices up??? I don't think so.

Tyler, how's the bike running now that you have it all together?? I look forward to hearing how you guys' weekend goes. -slo

LOL...That's pretty good.

Kind of a build your own deal. They usually come with a pair of aluminum straps (1/4"x1") about a foot long. You bend them and drill them to work for your application. I guess they figure there are so many different applications that these pipes get mounted on that a standard bracket kit won't work. -slo

I've allways run the single stage on mine with outerwears. We get some really fine dust out at Jericho and never had any of it get through.

+3 on the cub now. You'll be throwing good money away drag porting the stockers if you plan on a cub in the near future. Drag porting, boring your cylinders and new pistons will only be a couple hundred shy of the cub price.

+1 fpr uni pods :thumbsup: They do filter better than the k&n's, have yet to see a bike with dust in the carbs with the uni's. Most of the ones sportin the k&n's have had fine dust in the carbs when I've torn them down. Pretty sure they flow very comparably as well, have'nt noticed any jetting differences between the two on my engine builds. -slo

Just lettin you guys know they will be having one last event this season. There will be classes for 2 and 4 strokes, utilities, kids classes and side by sides. The classes will be broken down as stock, sport, modified and unlimited. There is a post with all of the class rules on atvdragracers.com . Come out and support this, it's a nice track with a full timing system.

Sold him a crank and some new domes, great guy to do business with. :biggrin:

If you're patient, I think you could near double your $$ on that if it runs and is in decent shape.

Thanks for the input guys :thumbsup: I'm also looking into the fuel cap for propper venting. If that's not the problem, I guess we'll have to look into the CDI. If anyone else has any suggestions I'm open to them, I hate to tell the customer it's the CDI before all of the bases are covered. But, I've tried every possible cause I can think of. Most of the time when I've seen a CDI go bad the bike won't rev or won't run at all. I may even swap in some 20cc domes I have on the shelf before I conclude it's the CDI, but like I said this is one of five with the exact same setup and the other 4 have run just fine on pump premium :shrug:

Well, here goes. I have a 93' of a customers that I did a full build on. The bike screams, but keeps detonating and backing out the plugs. I have allready bought him one top end. I am running out of ideas on this one. The setup is as follows. Aggressive dune port 64.5mm bore Wiseco pro-lites CPI's ported cases trued/welded crank modified stator plate (was at +4, now at +0) Pro-design head w/19cc noss domes (150psi @5000') on 91octane@40:1 Squish at .045" exact billet w/p impeller Ported cages w/boyesen dual stage reeds stock carbs w/k&n pods...320mains,25pilots, 1.5 turns out, stock needles 4th clip...@65-70deg plug chop verified So far it has passed two leak down tests and held 6psi for 6+minutes, it has passed a coolant system pressure test, I have gone down one heat range on the plugs to BR9ES, I have backed the timing advance from +4 back to +0, I have tried fuel from 3 different gas stations, I have verified that the crank key is intact. The pickup gap is exactly .020". This is the fifth engine that I have setup to these exact specs, none of the other 4 have had any problems. Is there anything that I am missing. I suspect the CDI is not backing off the total advance at high rpms, but have no good CDI with the round connectors. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, -slo

Contact Jeff at FAST, he will likely have the best deal around on your crank (785)364-5325. Last I checked he was asking $450 for the 4mil 115 hotrods with extra weld. -slo

The top end mentioned above is on it's stock bore no portwork with the original pistons. Has 100psi on left 95psi on right at 5000' elevation. Can throw in a new head gasket. $300 shipped.

TDR stocks them in just about any size you could imagine. Going with a .030-.035 won't net you very much power, you will be raising the ports less than a 1/2mm and both of them the same amount at that. You will also be increasing the squish clearance in the process which will cause a slight loss of bottom to mid power