Mjv420

Yes I talked to a rep from LSR and he did confirm that warrior balljoints work. 60$/piece at a yamaha dealer 20-25$/piece on ebay. These arms are in great condition and I did have the intention on running them. But I changed my mind due to me thinking about switching over to a a-arm chassis.

bump

Topic description says it all, I want to buy the two bolts that connect the swingarm to the axle carrier

I know man I was just joking, sorry

lmfao.... This thread should be moved to the trash pile or whatever the hell it is, why dont you both suck it up and end it. I know getting into online verbal arguments if fun but this is getting pretty lame. I've never ran this dynoport pipe and never plan on it. But I have conversed with people who have ran it and it is not a top end pipe turboshee. The pipe was obviously built in mind for low-mid power mx. I dont see this pipe breathing at all to 11k. I agree with snopczynski

I used to be really big on repairing 360's until I just got out of it recently. I didnt look at the guide meat provided but its more than likely the guide in which you remove the x-clamps which hold the heatsinks on the chip dyes and replacing then with bolts and washers which secure it better. This does work in most cases but is just a temporary fix. The causes of the 3rlod comes from the GPU, the GPU uses BGA interface meaning that the chip is soldered using ball grid array underneath the chip and connects to the board. When overheating occurs the original x-clamps flex releasing pressure on the heatsink which in turn causes the chip desolder itself so to speak creating broken connections. I have used the x-clamp removal method, along with using a heatgun and trying to reflow the GPU, memory, and southbridge and have had success with both, but let me remind you these are both just temporary fixes. If you want a permanent solution you will want to have the GPU re-balled, but 360's are so damn cheap now I would buy a new one which do run alot cooler.

I've got a stock set i'll consider trading for the axle (sarcasm) :cool:

This set here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_ATV-Parts-...d=p4506.c0.m245 is at ~400$ right now, yours are in much better condition so they're worth more.

Dont need wireharness or key switch anymore. I do need a bolt for the swingarm and a good set of handlebars

Its red, you must be colorblind... you know what I think it is though? A sorry ass excuse for a come back. :biggrin: Besides the quadzilla IMO has to be the most ugliest looking quad possibly made, how they painted the motor all blue and then topped it off with the gay ass looking fenders always bugged the hell out of me The zilla's look like a pretty fun bike to ride, and if I had the money I would definetely put one in my garage. But please spare everyone the bullshit of how your quad or whoever's quad in the vid is untouchable.

That wire harness is different from what I need, I need a 2GU wire harness. Thanks though :biggrin:

I need a 2GU wire harness, you have a 3GU. Bump anybody else?

Im needing the following, Wireharness 2GU for an '87 Ignition switch 2GU '87 Killswitch/lightswitch control 2GU '87 If you have all or one let me know.

BuMp

The BST forum has everything you need :woot:

I would put the female terminals on the harness, but you could do anyway you want I guess. You think you could possibly install the transparent connector cover, slightly heat it to form around the connector and then install the wire tubing?

Whatever you do please stop saying "tha", lol just j/k'n man. The transparent plastic pieces seal the metal connectors where you connect to the wire harness. There should be one wire for high and one wire for low and of course one wire for ground.

I read this story back along time ago, and I just so happen to see it surface in the past week. Sorry about your luck/damages but that is fucking funny man, right on!

Not trying to turn your threading into a bunch of chat but My suggestion to you is to just sell the PT'rs outright and then purchase some cpi's or shearers. You might pocket yourself some extra cash also :cool:

Bump Balljoints cost 60$ a piece for these arms, I found a set of 4 brand new for 99$ shipped.

Great seller, definetely a trust worthy person to do business with. Thanks again

First thing I would do is ditch those pipes. EDIT: And also the plastics :biggrin:

Selling my set of lonestar d-arms, they replace the stock j-arms and they are in perfect shape. Doesnt include balljoints or grease zerks 150$ shipped

Why the hell did you make the before pictures more easily viewable than the after?