inthemail

godalmighty holy crap, this is a big thread where did it come from? bleagh. anyway all happy easter. eat some chocolate

well thanks to tim i got grinder happy earlier today and ended up trippin over to crappy tire tonight for a brand new dremel and 500 piece bit kit lol i got everything cut and beginner ground with the angle grinder ill finish up tomorrow with the dremel. any tips on grinding things flat? less pressure right? nice work on that new frame dude, its definitly a step up from the last. i figure with what i have shaved from my frame i must be down to 35-38lbs. and i will be trailriding it with out the shit. looks like it will be plenty strong as long as its never rolled..... ill take some pics tomorrow are you building arms too brotha?? pm me....

step away from the boost bottle..... and yeap im talking about these suckers. there hoof trimmers. real bad bastards. lol

now now.... the banshee IS street bred..... lets calm down here and discuss. i dont like the half of a streetbike idea that sounds cheap and too easy.... but on a design scale. a twin thumper just might scream in a side by side cylinder setup, but dont streetbikes have complex fluel injection systems and electronic valve timing? at least thats possibble and most likely needed on designing a comparable twin cylindered 4 stroke version of our beloved 2 stroke banshee street from 30 years ago vs street of today..... this can go places just quit your ragging and go smell your tailpipes ladies

the one under the left cylinder had alot of oily buildup under i know its leaking them are the holes you betcha

uuuuuuuh hmm.

nobody knows???

word. you can use a propane torch to check for air leaks. you can find your leak because when the tip of the torch is near the leak the motor will rev. so step one, fix your air leak. seal that ol bitch off. then go about checking your jetting. i may add that if you have been trying to fix the problem of it throwing plugs, like literally out of the head. it could be detonation.

if your frame was purchased at a dealership or came into the world as a replacement, it wont have a vin. it should on the inside of the left frame rail (where your shifter is) it may have been painted over, there is a sticy at the top of this thread that explains decoding what you find. but like i said, you may not have a vin. and by inside, i mean imagine the engine is protecting it.

gota buddy with a stick welder and cutting torch? its really easy to cut and reweld the stock swinger -2 and for hookup in trails it should preform great. get a tire groover or a pair of animal nail snips and try chunkin out those bandits for the trails. :happy:

i figured id be only to go out a mm or 2 from the look of it. but, all the gain helps!

keep riding youll get it

im talking about boring the stck banshee carbs out. cant afford em now but i can afford a bore job on them. would going from a 26 to 28 be too much? even if i can get a mm out of the bore id be happy. as far as going bigger is there any other slide that could be made to fit in a new slide bore?

all this reading about blasters maks me want one... kids can do anything these days. please post the results i never saw this one before

this seems like a classic "if i take this off" question and the answer is NO. who cares if someone else doesnt use the counter balancer. they would e an idiot thats going to have their engine vibrate apart not to mention crack mounts guesseted or not. (if my mounts are strong enough not to crack whats behind them to break due to a stupid mod some 12 year old did and posted the results for the world to see.) if its a beater and your hellbent on the issue go for it, our pockets arent fixing it. as for the advice you asked. a faster rev is achieved more economically by the porper modification. IE. lathe your flywheel. any machine shop can do it for probley $40 and 3 days time. if you want your blaster to rev quicker and fly apart, buy nitrous.

i used to live with a lady who owned a vinyl plotter those cunts can be one pain in the ass eh chase? what kind of software are you using? i might make something up to be cut and send it to ya.

glad i could help brudder, your dead on tho half the fun of the ride is actually getting somewhere. real tuning should be looked at as a whole, unless your a dragger and want to go somewhere real fast and shut your bike down or whatever. "naw i cant go over there cause its too rough, my banshee will bend" or "i dont have enough low end in my banshee to go in a trail that tight" boo

yea dude those small grills on the tank cover and such are nice. i likey mucho

the bars you ? marked. only cut the one that follows up to your rad support. cut it flush with the a arm mount. i would be leaving that other one unless you want your shocks to push your frame straight up. i dont see anything wrong with cutting out the rear gussets as long as you dont land your fat ass on the seat too hwfully hard. do you ride on the cushion or on your feet? frame cutting is an art, and by that i mean search "AZCUSTOMQUADS" and you will see what i mean. take your time, dont try and smooth out anything with a grinder your only asking for a headache. use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and let the wheel do the work for your main cuts. once you have the cut pieces removed, smooth out the rest with a good carbide (or titanium) reaming bit and a rotary tool like a dremel. be prepared to spend alot of time in your shop fucking the dog while you THINK ABOUT ADVANCING WITH ANY CUTS OR WORK! remember that while things can be cut out, structral integrity WILL be lost. try to imagine your suspension working and forces of your body turning and pulling on components to move your frame. it will be much easier if you reassemble your front end and rear end into a basic roller to invision this. again, i stress the importance of tking your time, dont be like me and go gung ho with a grinder and reciprocating saw without proper planning. what you have already done by coloring that pic with paint is a damn good step in the right direction! good luck!

yeap. cutem. ill be running my bike nude tho for a while since i cant cut a straight line and fucked them all up GODDAMNIT. you would think some genius would sell cutting templates for banshees eh? they would make a fortune.

i see what you mean. hmm. but if you ran the plate and rechambered your head you would gain a longer stroke am i right?

interesting. i was just thinking about rebuilding my stock crank with the longer rods meaning i have to run a plate. is this the same stroke as a 4 mil long rod crank with no plate? are both technically 4 mil strokers?

sounds like you have the wrong wife bud haha

spares mabye? thats weird. call the manufcturer and ask wtf

is there any home remedy for this. is it as simple as chamfering the insides of the holes and applying more epoxy into them over the old?