huskyohilux

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then your jetting should be close enough to start with. Does the bike run OK? Does it bog or feel powerless? Have you tried any of the other banshees and felt any differences from yours? Do you run stock air box or pod filters? Try give it some more air and see how it behaves. What oil mixture are you running, octane on fuel?

what does your plugs look like? they should be nicely tanned. If you

The 3M Speedglass is a great helmet, but when welding laying down on the side, the construction that goes around your head tends to bend. Other than that it's an easy helmet that weighs less then a lot of others and the glass allows a bright vision between the autodarkenings

Is trued the same as balanced...I might wanna look around here first before I ship it overseas, the thing must way a ton and shipping only would ruin me:)

What kind of filters do you use and were can I order them?

Them measurement seem about right. Just took a closer look at mine and the seem to be the same from the threads and down, just a bit shorter on the top and only require a bit longer screw driver.

The longer one is the same length as the ones I had before. The short is the odd

trying to find keihin jets in sweden is like finding a needle in a hay stack... Finally got 2 pilots size 45 from a shop a couple of towns away. Got home and the two were not the exact same lenght. One is apprx. 1 2/16" and one is apprx 15/16" but same size and threading Just wanted to put everything back together this weekend! Is the lenght of importance?

Got I tip from a swedish shop that my problems could be due to worn reeds. And that it should run fine with 160 main or even 170 (as I've run on and beeing rich on all the time), for some reason the air here is different or someting...? So I'll give my keihins one last chance with Boyesen pro series (retail: $150 here in Sweden!!!) and a pair of reed spacer for clutch lever clearance. I think I'll put in the 160 mains, 45 pilot and clip the needles in the middle ...Praying for some real banshee action!!! Any thought regarding worn reeds and too much gas in the combustion?

Got what I needed, for now...

I need one intake boot (air box to stock carb), reed spacers w/ gaskets, (boyesen reeds, not that important), jets and needles for mikuni and keihin. Preferely all from one shop to combine shipping...and from someone who ships internationally. Checked F.A.S.T., didn't seem to have intake boot. Also checked different E-bay stores, no luck there either.

I haven't confirmed my engine displacement yet. The guy I baught it from said duncan 403cc and since he already put almost $10,000 (probably cheaper in the US then here in Sweden) on other mods such as roll design swing, elka shocks, keihins, roll design front end, cool head, durablue rear axle etc, etc. There was no reason for me to believe that he wasn't telling the truth. But as soon as I need to remove the head I'll take measurements to make sure. He rode national competitions with it and the way I ride is not a lot of WOT. So that's why I need to change jetting so I'll get some more middle range. The 35 mms are probably more than I need...But the bike runs OK for my needs aswell now even though the plugs aren't getting that light brown surface I'm looking for. I'll try smaller mains and see how it does otherwise maybe I'll look for something smaller on E-bay e.g. 28s or 33s Thanks for the input guys!

Markings on the side are S65A2 0DA so they are air strikers. What's the difference between them and std? I just ordered 160 mains, so I'll try that and clip down the needle to middle again.

Needles are DEK Sorry got the jet sizes wrong... current setup is 170 mains and 48 pilots

I run 403cc duncan? (or maybe I don't, I haven't confirmed that yet) with pro curcuit exhaust and dual 35 mm Keihin PWK:s The needle clips are in top notch --> as lean as possible but still the plugs are dripping fuel after a good run, although it runs OK I use most mid range power so I rule out pilot (35) and main (175) I give it as much air as I can --> pro design filter and no air box lid Can it be that the carbs are too big for my engine?

I took a closer look at my old posi-lock (I had to cut in half to remove it) and there were markings on the inside towards the sprocket hub. Obviously thats were it used to be. I'm not sure if I need it though...It doesn't affect anything but the positioning of the nut. The threads are exposed as pictured, is that a problem or am I good to go???

Should have said that I have the roll design swing arm with housing for tapered bearings. So unfourtunatly the picture didn't help me much. And since I have only one of these unidentified washer I don't think they come of the bearings. In fact I'm pretty sure I didn't see it there when I removed everything. Must have come from either the posi lock or sprocket hub.

Have assembled my rear axle and was just about to throw away the old parts when I found this spacer. It goes either between the posi-lock and the sprocket hub or between the sprocket hub and the carrier. That's what I disassmabled when I replaced bearings, seals and chain sprocket. Please help me out, I haven't ridden the bike yet but everything feels good enough...

104 is stock, I cut mine to 100 since my roll design swing arm is shorter. I took a closer look at my carrier and it can be adjusted. The holes are for a wrench, to turn the whole carrier so the lenght varies. Some problems you have to look a twice or more to solve. Thanks a lot guys

This is the carrier on my bike. There are a lot of holes but I don't see how the length of the chain can be adjusted...

I've got stock 14 front/41 rear sprockets. New ones as well. The same gearing as before. Yes the old chain was a bit stretched, but when it was new (when the owner before me baught it) it should have been as long as mine is now with the same amount of links. I've got the carrier for the tarperd berings, I'm not sure it can be adjusted...?

I got a new chain and cut it down to as many links as my old one (100). I have the Roll design swing arm. The old chain was ofcourse stretched a bit so it fitted fine but the new was a bit tricky to mount. I had to remove the lower front chain roll to install it and it does feel a bit short but when I tried with a second chain lock to make it longer it became a bit too long... It feels like a have the right amount of links but I need to ride a bite to stretch the new chain and then re-install the front roll. Is this standard procedure?

I read on the durablue site that when you install the posi lock nut you should leave an endplay towards the axle housing/carrier. They recommend between 0.015"-0.017" depended on manufacturer. Does anybody have any experienses regarding this? I've got the Roll design swingarm with an unidentified aluminium bearing housing.

Am away on business trip for 2 more weeks and don't have access to any pics of the alxe. Thought I'd order a new nut now so it'd wait for me at home when I get back!