WINDYCITYJOHN400

Try one size up on pilot. Maybe your lean on the bottom end.

Well I posted a lot if dates to different places. So....where will you see me?

Wait…..why does a guy with a screen name of B.b.p. builders need to be asking all these motor questions? What are you a house builder?

Yep. It's on the list and I made the list. Tyler may have planned it on my anniversary…..but my wife is very understanding. I'll try to stay clear of all that crotch to face action I've seen posted in the past tho

You gotta pen in at least ONE dune trip this year……..

For ANYONE who would like to come out and join us for a ride. Feel free to join in and invite as many people as you can. Anyone interested in hitting one of these spots for the first time….feel free to PM me. I'd be glad to play host to you and your group to make your first trip go smooth. Here is the official list for our bigger 2014 ride dates for both our Dune riding as well as Dirt. Other dates may be added, but these are locked in for sure for those who need plenty of time to plan days off from work. (Get them on the calendar NOW before someone "pens you in" for some LAME baby shower/ graduation party/ kids birthday/ co-workers weeding) APRIL 19 - Badlands Indiana (First dirt ride of the season. Weather pending. Some years it's still too wet/cold.) MAY 3 - SPRING HQ RIDE Badlands Indiana (This date has worked in the past and always gets a good turnout of people.) MAY 16-17-18 St.Joe Missouri Spring ride (Camping and riding right from our sites) JUNE 20-21-22 Silver Lake Sand Dunes Michigan/West Michigan Sand Drag-way (Duning till 4;30, then hitting the Test & Tune at the drag-strip Friday 5-9. Dunes all day Saturday. Camping at Silver Lake Resort and Campground.) JULY 18-19-20 Silver Lake Sand Dunes Michigan/West Michigan Sand Drag-way (Duning till 4:30, then hitting the Test & Tune at the drag-strip Friday 5-9. Dunes all day Saturday. Camping at Silver Lake Resort and Campground.) AUGUST 15-16-17 Silver Lake Sand Dunes Michigan (Illinois Powersports ride. Duning all weekend. Camping at Silver Lake Resort and Campground.) SEPTEMBER 24-25-26-27-28-29 Little Sahara Oklahoma Banshee HQ ride (Depending on truck and trailer room….may be looking for people who want to share the drive and site. PM if interested in joining us for the 14 hour road trip.) OCTOBER 4 - FALL HQ RIDE Badlands Indiana (Every year the weather predictions sound bad and every year they end up perfect ride conditions. always a good turnout too.) OCTOBER 17-18-19-20 St.Joe Missouri Fall ride (Camping and riding right from our sites) Wash, clean and detail machines for winter storage and start planning next years fun.

I use tires, a skid plate and nerf bars to protect my chrome/paint/powder/polished items. In really ruff situations the handlebars, bumpers and grab bar come into the defensive roll. But if your frame is getting whacked......your sprocket and rear rotor are going to be the bigger issue.

Then why fuck with it…..your not going to notice anything with that small change without optimizing everything. Just wait and do the whole motor correctly.

I would hope so. Still…..having carbs that out flow the reeds…..what's the point?

Like this. But green. They start out looking……better than the "Barn Find" they were before……and end up looking like they were decorated with neon green at a Rave and set on fire. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146097&page=3

Just sarcasm. If your not laughing…..you haven't read how many times posts end up like that.

Dual power jets on GAS? = Hydro locked. LOL

Take the bus. ……..and I want to buy the products from a hardware store……and have them look like automotive paint…..and glisten like a Bass Boat paint job……durable like chrome plating…. maybe find a special clear coat that is self cleaning…..some thing I can spray on raw aluminum to make it look polished…. best if it can be applied without any prep…….over dirt and oil…....in place on my assembled bike……able to hold up to the heat when I paint my pipes…….should look like a candy over chrome with deep clear…....but be a one step finish….with no wet sanding of buffing……hard as a rock too……..maybe a kit made for ATV's specifically…….in just the color I'm picturing…..for $19.99 or less…….should dry to the touch in 5 minutes……in my 34 degree shed………and touch-up easy……same mega deep shiny metallic finish should also work on my plastics……because I want my machine to look super bad ass!…….TODAY!….because we're going riding in about 2 hours and I just realized my machine is a jalopy and I don't have the patience to clean it…….anyone know if this Krylon I found in the shed will work…..or work for now….hope so…..can you use paint if it's been frozen?…..I'm just goin to go for it……I'm willing to take my time so it turns out right…….I'll bake it with my sister's blow drier…..that should make it harden awesome……and dry in time. I'll post blurry phone pics from far away before the paint even dries when I'm done. Thanks for all the advice on how to do it best….but fuck that! My friends all spent stupid money doing that and I think my idea is going to Look better, Work better, Last longer, AND be Cheaper.

You have carb fever! I guess you're all set to just carb the shit out of that motor. Dual power jets on gas???? You planning to feed it fuel or use fuel to wash all the oil off the cylinder walls?

Paint every damn thing on the machine flat black, (pipes, plastics, tires, rims, grips, cables, filters, brake rotors, motor, chain, the works! Fuck masking anything, just blast it all in black) then tell everyone you were going for that totally played out "Murdered Out" look. Then be Oh So original and when you get tired of plain black (Or need to cover up some drips from your endless touch-ups) slap some Monster stickers on it. Later you can paint your hubs green to match Then…..you can go nuts painting a bunch of stuff green. (Like your plastic stator side cover, your seat cover or anything else that comes to mind.) Then a year later (After your motor burn down) you can list the rolling heap on Craigslist and we can advise the next owner on how to strip all that crap off and go for something nicer than the Road Warrior look.

For what they weight……why eliminate them? That's putting WAY too much interest in lightening a machine.

I don't know what kind of horse shit powder coat you guys have experience with, but It took an acetylene torch to cook my powder coat off my subframe to get it modded. I can't picture chipping that shit. (Not any place that anyone would see.) Mine has held up to sand, gas, oil, grease, brake cleaner, multiple engine removals and installs, fame dragged over trailer side rails, hot pipes, even brake fluid.

Yep. If I was tech savvy I'd be posting all kinds of pics and videos. But I'm not. So....where are the pics of your bike with a woman draped over it?

Ok….well that's stupid. Don't do that any more and you'll be fine.

Tell me about those ball joints. I haven't see any other models out there with that hard angle for the threads. (Most use a joint that has the threads on a 90 degree angle to the tapered pin) What are you using for a ball joint?

Taller tires should help. Feather the gas or clutch out of the hole. (Once they start spinning, they keep spinning.) Move butt to back of seat. (Keep a close eye on that front end tho.)

When your motor is accelerating, the crank is spinning and the flywheel is gaining speed with the crank. This is generally a smooth increase in speed so the flywheel doesn't get much stress as far as wanting to spin free from it's connection to the crank. But when you get off the gas at a high speed, if you don't pull the clutch in, the motor "Backloads" or "Engine brakes". In that instance the crank in slowed very quickly from it's acceleration and the forces on the flywheel are reversed. (Picture an item in the bed of a pick-up truck with stick shift. Under acceleration it's against the bed, lift off the gas and it wants to roll to the front) This happens with the flywheel and it's quite common for the flywheel to roll on the crank. This shears to key in the keyway and allows the timing to be moved wildly off of it's normal settings. On a side note…..if your bike is dripping out the overflow when it gets hot under normal riding, your jetting is too lean or your timing is too advanced. Banshees don't have cooling issues…..Banshee owners just have a history of jetting issues. LOL

Well it's entirely possible that he's right. It's possible that the carbs were gummed up and your motor went lean on one or both cylinders. That will cause detonation and detonation can blow your head gasket. I would still ditch that head and dome combo. Those "Turbo groves" in the dome don't cause a power increasing swirl….they just become thin heat sinks that hold heat and aid in detonation. (Jetting the motor really rich fights that….but also scrubs about 10HP) If you wanna get a new head and domes in a 19cc size and check your compression, I'm sure you'll be on the right track. But keep in mind….any time an issue comes up that causes the motor to stop working properly…..you gotta verify EVERYTHING before you go WOT again. Go thru the carbs and make sure ALL the fuel circuits are clear, check that the flywheel didn't move on the crank, fresh plugs, verify what your timing is set at, if it's higher than +4…Know what that means, etc…. Your the new owner and pilot of this toy. Think of it like a wild tiger…..Know what to feed it and what it needs because if it's unhappy….your the one getting bit. (In the wallet)

Your flywheel spun. Pull your side cover and check the keyway. Pretty sure the key went for a ride and now your flywheel is way off on the timing. Time to pull it and check the damage. If your bike EVER drips coolant out the pipe…the head gasket/O-ring is blown and that don't fix it's self! If your bike was crazy lean….than THAT could lead to detonation and popping. All causes of a blown head gasket. Bikes that are hot or running with cylinders full of water are going to be boggy too. Sounds like you got a few issues in the mix.

That it one OLD ASS Trinity head. Pre-Oring. That model uses a head gasket. The newer stuff has O-rings at the dome bases as well as the outer water jacket. Those domes are a total joke. Pure marketing ploy. Clean that thing up and pass it on to some eBay fool. Then get a new head and dome combo and you'll be on the right track.