bansheesandrider

No, 0 ohms is a shorted circuit, infinite ohms is an open circuit. If he truly has 0 ohms then his stator is shorted out, which means the CLR ate all the insulation off the windings. I don't know if CLR would do that or not, but that is what it sounds like. I would have use some electric motor cleaner myself.

What is the rod length? If it is a 110 rod(stock length) use a Wiseco 513 series piston in the appropriate size for your bore. If it is a 115 rod(long rod) then you should use a Wiseco 795 series in the correct size. Wisecos are forged and that is the only kind of piston for a performance motor. 4mil cranks come in both rod lengths. ALWAYS buy quality parts or you will have to spend MORE money doing it a scond time. Not to mention, you don't want your bike breaking down on the trail, as your bike will go farther in 1/2 hour than you can walk all day.

It is a Trinity product, that is a con to me. Do you really want to give money to a vendor that has caused so many headaches for other site members. Trinity started out as a Quadzilla shop and jumped on the Banshee bandwagon when Suzuki quite manufacturing them, so they are in it for the money.

The reason he is saying to replace the tranny is that you don't want to mix and match gears, you want to keep the gears running against the gears they have been running against to preserve wear patterns and prevent noise. The only way to find a complete shaft with gears on it is used. It is not that hard to replace the shaft- you will need a small pair of snap ring pliers and then you just need to keep the gears, washers, shims and snap rings in order and get them back on the new shaft in the right place. Did the bike have ATF as tranny oil? This seems to be a common problem for guys running ATF. I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 in my Banshee's trannies. I have ran it for 18+ years in a total of 7 Banshees and 2 Blasters that I have either owned or been the mechanic for and none of them have expierenced a tranny or clutch failure of ANY kind. 4 of the Banshees and both Blasters were girls bikes that like to coast down hillls with the clutch lever pulled in. A pancake bearing will also prevent this from happening.

The strongest bearing for this application is opposed tapered roller bearing,ie Timkens.

Right now everything is up in the air, the moron we are dealing with on the farm implement refuses to return our calls so we don't know when we are leaving. I figured we need 6 days to make the trip and I have to be home Monday AM for a doctors appointment. SO, as it stands now we either won't be going till next week or I have to change my appt. Thanks for the offer and all the help everybody has offered.

In Oregon it is done through the Parks Department and they don't issue a duplicate, you have to get a whole new sticker for the bike. But it is only $10 for 2 years. But I do have the original title that was issued through DMV. In Oregon currently ATVs are titled(optionally) through DMV and registered through the Parks Dept., at the time I bought my 89 it was all done with DMV.

Was it a Yamaha stator or was it a cheap aftermarket one? The only aftermarket one that does not have a bad reputation is Electrosport/Moose. All the rest are crap, some of them don't even work when they come out of the box.

I have a current sticker on the bike, but I can't find the paper that came with the sticker that shows the VIN and my name and address. Is this going to be a problem?

Yes, RTV is fine against oil, but when it comes in contact with gasoline it starts breaking down and turns to soft jelly.

Actually that is the way you check a single cylinder coil. On a Banshee, you want to check the secondary resistance by putting each meter lead on a plug wire. Ideally you want to do this with the plug caps removed as they add resistance to the reading.

Yea, I bought it so we could ride. It ran fine in Idaho. We came home and the bike sat from the Fourth of July until mid September, we went to Sand Lake for the day and the bike would not kick start off the trailer. We towed it and it started right up and then it would kickstart as long as it was warm. If it cooled off we had to tow it again. At the end of the day we sat around the campfire for a couple of hours and when it was time to load up to go home it would not even start towing it. Got home and plugged an OEM one in and it started first kick. Had a major hassle getting it warrantied because I had to go through the dealer in Idaho, their distributor, and Ricks. When I got it back, I plugged it in and started the bike, unplugged it and put it in the box for a spare. So I learned my lesson about electrical parts.

I was just saying that in my opinion, those are the only acceptable ones to use. I agree with you on the Dyna except I think you can buy a brand new Dyna for less money than a brand new Yamaha CDI box. And it might be easier/quicker to get the Dyna. Not many dealers stock CDI boxes, when I was at St Anthonys I was able to get a Rick's Electrics box the next day but a Yamaha box was a week away when I was only going to be there 5 more days. Granted I had to have the Ricks box replaced under warranty when I got back home, but I think I could have gotten a Dyna that fast also.

Thanks, technically SAs are required in the Oregon dunes, but as long as you don't do stupid shit they don't hassle you over it. One other question- are the closed areas clearly marked so we don't inadvertently get on the wrong side of a boundary? Oregon uses stickers, mine is mounted on a Cascade taillight bracket so that is covered. I will have my Oregon operator's card and an insurance card with me as well.

The rule I go with is stock for the staor, stock or Nology for the coil, and stock or Dyna FS for the CDI box.

I was just reading some regulations about Imperial Sand Dunes and it stated that you need to have a spark arrestor. All I have are the older style CSFX silencers with the turn down pipe, is this going to be a problem?

We were definetly taking GPS and what not. I was thinking about swapping the six pack rack from the wife's bike so I could carry extra fuel. I knew it was big down there, I have done alot of reading about it and know several people that have been there, but all the info I have was from the perspective of camping on the sand for a week or more, not 2 days of riding and having to stay in a motel. Thanks guys.

No, the omly difference between an early and late stator is the plug itself. Wire is wire, the coil is the same for all years, so the only thing that really changed is the CDI box itself. And those changes were,the connectors, sometimes the timing curves, and the addition of the PB rev limiter. First thing I would do is go over the harness and make sure there are no bare wires to short out and make sure all the splicing he did is good-preferably done with "crimp, solder,& sealconnecors" or at least soldered and heat shrink. Follow the standard electrical troubleshooting procedures in the service manual and verify the stator and coil are good and that wires are not burnt through and shorting out on the pipes. If you can check the coil immediately after it has shut down. You do have OEM staor and CDI box and not some POS aftermarket garbage? Good luck!

Thanks for all the info guys, unfortunately we have been pushed back at least a day because they did not get the deal finalized on Friday. I am pretty sure we wil still be going, but if we don't leave Portland on Tuesday mornig we will have to push it back a week because I have an appiontment the following Monday that I have to be here for. Thanks.

I think we are leaving Portland early Monday morning and driving straight through to El Centro. We will have to spend Tuesday dismantling the implement and loading it on the trailer. We are going to leave the trailer at the dealer and just take the pickup to go riding on Wednesday and Thursday. Then we are headed home Friday morning. So I was wondering if we should drive back to El Centro on Wednesday night or if there is a decent place to stay closer to the sand. i bought my Banshee in the fall of 89 and have wanted to go to Glamis ever since. I have driven to AZ many times, but I have either not had the time or it has not been possible to take the bike with me. So finally I am going to get to ride the Imperial Sand Dunes! I want to hit Comp Hill and Oldsmobile and maybe hit Boardmanville, so where is the best place to access the sand?

So the boss is sending 2 of us to El Centro, CA to pick up a piece of farm equipment next week. We convinced him we have enough room for my Banshee and my co-worker's dirt bike. Because of the work commitment, I need to know how far fron El Centro to the good riding/staging areas, what is available for motels and resturaunts close to the riding area and/or town?

Well you probably won't see this since you are not coming back here, but we are NOT nurses or medical personnel. We are people that work on Banshees, some of us are professional mechanics and others are just enthusiasts. And the more info you give us, the better we can help you. You can't just say stat or snap your fingers and expect us to just jump on your problem.

First, you need to ask a proper question. Second, it routes just like the stock cable. Third, if you would consult your service manual( you do have one don't you?), you would see how to route the cable!!!!!

1/2 inch is too much, it should be 0 to 1/8 inch toe in. A little toe in will make it track better. If the caster or camber are off it will pull to one side. Does it actually pull or are the tires just not straight ahead when the bars are?

That is the idle SPEED screw, there is also an idle mixture screw on the side of the carb!!!!!!!!!!!!