Jayy

Just wondering if anyone knows if its ok to use. I will be replacing my brake lines with SS braided lines, so i will have to drain, refill, and bleed them. I bought the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid at the local Advance. It says it is compatable with conventional brake fluids and exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4. Clymers recommends DOT 4, and so does the manufactureer. I am guessing this stuff will be just as good and wont damage or corrode seals, brake lines, pistons, etc. Am I right? Thanks for suggestions.

Thanks, everyone. I am so excited I can hardly wait. I hope the install goes well.

Thanks, everyone. Yeah, i'm all jazzed up about it. I just realized i will have to call them back tomorrow and make sure the shocks have piggyback rezzies. I dont think i specified that and I dont want remote. Peterlocal, How are your +3+1 a arms doing? Have you measured the front end width with them yet? Have you ridden on them?

Hello, everyone. I am so excited I can hardly stand it! I finally bit the bullet and shelled out the cash for a new front end set up. I ordered +3+1 LSR a arms, extended Stainless brake lines, and dual rate Elka Piggyback front shocks set up for motocross with comp and rebound adjustment. I better like these things because they cost the earth!! I paid it anyway because I wanted new and top of the line. I already have a G force axle so the rear end is ready to widen out to match the new width in the front. Next big goal, shorter swingarm and Elka rear shock. :biggrin:

I am running the same set up on my new DMC aliens, so we have the same pipes, different silencer(s). I have the same jetting. 280 mains, stock needle center clip, and stock pilot with 1 1/2 out on the air screws. I also have the airbox lid on with 3 one inch holes in the back of the lid and Uni 1 inch foam snap in breather vents in it. My pipes are turning the same golden/brownish color at the exhaust ports also after about 10 hours on it with these pipes. I am curious what others will say about this as well. I also need to try 27.5 pilots to see if it helps any. DMC suggests 30 pilots with the same setup we both have, but that seems way too big to me.

Thanks. Yeah, its not a regular thin mesh outerwear, but a big thick foam element. It is a loose woven tyoe of foam(you can see daylight easliy through it) and it takes up alot of dead air space in the airbox. Maybe i should see if i can get a regular outerwear for the main/yellow uni filter.

Anybody?

Just wondering if anyone knows the purpose of the red slip on outer filter. Is it intended to be used only if you are running open lid or cut away airbox? My airbox and lid are intact with the snorkel removed and 3 1" uni snap in vents in the lid. I have my bike jetted with 280 mains, needle on 3rd clip, stock 25 pilots and airscrews 1.5 turns out. It was running good before with this jetting on the stock filter, but when i installed the pro design uni pro flow set up it bogged bad like it couldnt breath with the red outer filter on. I removed the outer red filter and it rips again. I am thinking the red outer filter took up too much space in the airbox and wouldnt let it draw air easliy enough. I cut the old stock filter tabs off the lid and the airbox was p[acked full with the red filter in place. I had to push and force the lid on. Is it OK to run without the red outer filter cover and just use the yellow inner filter element? Thanks for your help.

1screamin350 can you tell more about your LT Janssen setup. How bad is the bumpsteer? Does it feel stable at high speed? How are slow, tight turns? How does it handle whoops, big jumps and landings, etc. I am thinking i am going to go with LSR a arms either in +2+1 or +3+1, but i have also considered the Janssen LT setup. i wish someone around here owned a shee with these set ups so i could try them out, or at least see them in person!

Thanks for the suggestions! I am thinking about trying some 27.5 pilot jets, just have to figure out where to order them from. I also have a little bit of the dreaded "dead spot" right before the powerband. Its just a small break up/blubbering but it cannot be adjusted out by changing the needle clip position. From what i hear, it requires aftermarket needles to get rid of this and make it go into the powerband smooth/crisp. I need to figure out where to get the corrrect aftermarket needles for it too. I will eventually be getting Vforce reeds. I know that i could remove the airbox lid all together, but riding in the mud, mountains, and washing my bike to get the majority of crap off before bringing it home i just feel better leaving the lid on.

Thanks, Eastcoast! You are making me lean more toward the +3+1. If you dont mind, can you tell me how your front suspension stands as tall as it does (a arms angled much more and front end standing higher than stock). Is it the preload on your elka shocks that does this? I am guessing they are valved for MX. I know for sure the shocks i want are Elka comp adjustable piggybacks valved for MX, the same as what you are running. Have you been happy with your LSR a arms otherwise, and did you have to do any spindle reaming?

Thanks, guys. My only other mod is DMC alien pipes, snorkel removed, and 3 of the foam snap in Uni 1 inch vents in the back of the airbox lid. Right now I have been running 280 mains, stock 25 pilot jet, airscrew 1.5 turns out, stock needle on the 3rd (middle) stock clip position.

Hello, everyone. I am switching from the junk stock filter to a Pro Design Pro Flow Uni filter. I am not making any changes to my airbox, so i am still running with lid. No changes other than filter element. Will the uni filter breathe more requiring a jetting change? Thanks for your help!

Why would you go with +3+1? If I run +2+1 and stock offset +3+2 wheels how wide will i actually be? Right now with stock front end and wheels I am at about 43 inches. I somehow doubt +2+1 arms and aftermarket shocks with different preload, ride height, etc will put me at an even 47 inches wide (or plus 2 inches even on each side). I have seen DMC banshee's set up with +2+1 Denton a arms, elkas, and douglas beadlocks, and i think it is sweet! I wonder if it is the preload on his elkas that makes the front a arms stand tall? I dont know what his wheel offset on his beadlocks is or how wide it comes out to be.

Hi, everyone. I am currently saving for the LSR racing a arms and Elka front shocks set up for MX, but cant decide whether to go with +2+1 or +3+1 a arms. I do ride some trails, but the width shouldnt be a problem where I ride. I am planning on staying with the stock wheel offset which I believe is +3+2 on the stock banshee wheels. I will stick with this offset if Douglas conventional beadlock wheels are also available with the same offset as stock. I already have a G Force axle installed, so I will be able to adjust my rear width. Can anyone who has experience with these arms suggest what i should go with? Thanks for any help. :smile:

The DMC website instructions suggest with a stock engine and vented lid (this is exactly what I will be running) to use 280 mains, needle clip in stock 3rd position, and 30 pilots. Doesnt 30 pilots seem a bit large? Most either seem to be running stock 25 or 27.5. Surely the aliens do not need 30 pilots to make idle to 1/8 rich enough?

Thanks for the advice, guys. I will see how it goes when my pipes and uni filter vents come in!

Thanks, fastrthnu. I have never disassembled these carbs before. I wont need to open the tops of the carbs until I get into changing the needle clip position (if it is needed). Is removing the lower (float bowls) on the carbs all I will need to do to change the main jets?

Ok. I just ordered a DMC alien exhaust package and I need to know where to start with jetting. My shee is bone stock, and I am going to drill two 1" holes in the back area of the airbox lid and put in 1" uni filtered vents. Air filter is stock for now. I live and ride at elevations from 1600 ft minimum to 2500 ft maximum. I am in northeast Tennessee, so it is warm here. I have a sets of 280, 290, and 300 mains to try. Should any of these be close? I have jetted before, but the shee is new to me. Do I have to remove the carb completely to have room to get to the main jets, or can I loosen the hose on both ends and twist the carb enough to get the bowl off? Thanks in advance for your advice. Man, I cant wait to get these pipes!

I'm not trying to be a dick either black sunshine, but I would rather hear more than one persons opinion before throwing down several hundred dollars when I live in an area where nobody has a banshee with DMCs for me to try before buying. I have to earn my money, I consider what I do with it carefully! Opinions vary greatly from one person to another on the same product, I like to make an informed decision. When I am done with that, I WILL buy the fuckers!

Does the powerband go from a dead low end to a violent mid range kick, or is it a smoother transition that build from dead bottom and picks up smoothly in the midrange? Are the Aliens rediculious loud or tolerable? Thanks for your help!

Thank you, That kind of info is a big help. Could the stingers be wraped in high temp exhaust wrap beside the airbox to prevent warping or melting?

Anybody? Are these a quality, good fitting, durable pipe or not?

Almost forgot, carbs are synced and have also checked pilot screws. They are still to stock spec and 2.0 turns out each.

Thats a good thought I forgot to mention. I have cleaned it twice and oiled with Bel Ray foam filter oil. It is clean.