Jayy

Hello, everyone. I know a lot of people say you can use almost anything as tranny oil in a shee, but does anyone use this stuff? i have some sitting in my garage and would like to use it up before going back to my ususal bel ray 80w gear oil. Thanks for any suggestions.

Here is a pic of my Outlaw long travel shee I am building. It is custom frame with 250R geometry and quad rate LT Elkas. Its not finished yet, but a work in progress.

Thanks, man27. That did the trick! I let it warm up then turned the airscrews out another half turn and it got worse, So I turned them in a half turn from where I started and the bog disappeared. Now the pilots are at 1 turn out from seated at it idles fine and I cant seem to make it bog. I am glad that did it, i was afraid it was the needle and I would have to open the carb tops to adjust the clip down a notch. Thanks again.

Hello, everyone. I am jetting a new build and wanted to ask everyones opinion. The motor is stock, with an custom made airbox that has two large intake tubes that go to the stock carbs. there is no lid on the box. I am also running pro circuit pipes. My jetting currently is 27.5 pilots, air screws 1.5 turns out, stock needles on middle clip position, and 320 mains. I havent plug chopped yet, but I am pretty sure the mains are close. The bike will rev out clean and fully running WOT in 5th and 6th gear and a fourth gear WOT run did leave a solid smoke ring on a new set of plugs. When idling the bike will idle smoothly and will rev up if I do not jab the throttle too fast. If I jab it too fast the bike will bog as it revs above idle, but wont die and finally revs through it. Anyone know what to adjust for this type of bog? Thanks for the help.

Thanks, guys. I will use the engine ice eventually after I know everything is running ok and I wont need to drain it again. For now, I am just gonna use water and antifreeze 50/50 mix. Do I need to make sure it is safe for aluminum radiators? It seems like I heard that somewhere before, but may be wrong.

Hello, guys. I am in the process of building a outlaw chassis bike and have just put the banshee motor in it. I have engine ice that I will use later on when everything is going, but want to run antifreeze for now. I have the distilled water to mix with it, but am wondering which type/brand of antifreeze is safe to use. Thanks for any suggestions.

Thanks, guys. Banshee Junkey, you cant buy one. It was a custom build done by Shaffer racing. It seems it was the only one they built.

How do I edit the topic line of this post to say that I have pics?

Ok, Lets see if i can get these pics in here. Of course, I HAVE to add a couple of pics of my other shee. Taking this one to the mountains tomorrow and I cant wait! Hope you guys enjoy the pics!

Its partially apart in my garage right now, but I will see if I can get some pics in here for ya.

Hi, everyone. I just wanted to say I bought broke's Shaffer Outlaw banshee chassis (everyone on here has probably seen his pics of it in several threads) and wanted to say what a great guy he is and what an awsome chassis it is. I am in Tennessee and he is in northern Illinois and he was happy to meet me half way for the purchase. After the sale we have spoken a few times on the phone and through PMs with questions I have had and he has been nothing but helpful. He has talked me through the history of the chassis and the hybrid nature of it with the 250R and 400EX parts on it. He is even tracking down an obscure part for me that I needed and threw in several extras during and after the sale for free. I now have an awsome winter project and will have a one of a kind bike nobody else has. I just wanted to say thanks broke and let everyone know what a class act you have been!

I know there are different stroke mods available (4mil, 10 mil, etc.) but 4 mil seems to be the most popular. I know it is also strongly recommended you have your crank trued and welded for this mod. What is the performance increase? More power everywhere, or topend, etc? Thanks for the knowledge, the stroker concept is new to me and I have never really heard it explained.

Yeah, saw those as well. The secoond one is awsome looking, but I would like to find something with less mods in that good of condition.

Complete bottom end in good condition?

Hey, everyone. I am just trying to see if it is hard to locate complete engines in good condition without exhaust or carbs for a banshee. I would like to find one complete with no mods or very few minor mods such as reeds, etc. I have checked ebay and havent found anything. What are other options?

Hello, everyone. I have installed my Lonestar -1 swinger and now my stock brake line is way too long. I have searched around and so far the shortest streamline or similar SS rear brake line I have seen is for stock length swingarms. Anyone have any ideas?

No not yet. Sorry it took so long to reply. I havent had time to call elka or play with it yet because of work this week.

I know what you mean, but I have the drag marks on my frame's skid plate to prove it. I will have to play with it more. I am also running 20X11X9 rears. I am going to call Elka and see what they recommend.

I am only 5 clicks from full hard now. It makes me think i may need a stiffer main spring, secondary spring, or both. Your bike looks sweet, do you have a SSD elka rear shock? If so, how far do you have the spring compressed? I am afraid my bike is going to buck me off going over small, fast bumps and ruts.

Thanks. I am not bottoming out as far as shock travel, my shee's frame is bottoming on the ground. I know to adjust ride height with the spring adjuster, but i do not know how far i can safely compress the spring without spring binding because Elka and nobody else specs that.

Hello, guys. I recently installed a Elka dual rate rear shock with the self sagging device on my banshee. The shock came from Elka set up for me, my weight, and for MX riding. The shock makes the rear sit very low. I do not at all have the ride height under the frame, or tire to rear fender clearance I used to. Now, my ride height under the foot pegs is about nine inches, and i have the compression adjustment almost maxed out, but the shock will allow the frame to bottom out on the ground if i get 5 feet of vertical air from the ground. I have the preload adjustment collar about 2/3 of an inch tightened down from the top. The secondary spring is basically already completely compressed as is, but there is still plenty of spring travel available for the main spring without it binding. How much further can i tighten the preload collar down to increase preload on the shock without being unsafe? I am thinking i need to go further on increasing spring preload to back of the compression some and decrease frame dragging but do not know how far i can go. The set up guide from Elka that came with the shock doesnt say. Thanks in advance for help.

I am with peterlocal22. I also trail and play ride on a local MX track. I just recently purchased LSR +3+1 a arms and Elka dual rate shocks set up for MX both front and rear. I have the a arms and shocks on, and am now waiting on a -1 LSR swingarm. The difference the a arms and suspension make in the ride is absolutely amazing. The bike is far more stable and handles great. I have been jumping it through the fields, but no MX yet. I cant wait to try it out on the track. I Also have a GForce axle in back. If you are curious about width, etc like I was I am still running stock wheels and have my axle at full +4 length. My front is 49 inches wide and rear is about 47.5 inches wide. It is very expensive, but all worth it when you ride it for the first time. I wish I had pics to throw on for ya. Hope this helps.

Ok, thanks. I guess I will go with the motion pro tool then. It sounds simple enough.

Hi, everyone. I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my -1 inch LSR swingarm for my shee. I still have my stock chain, and need to remove a link to shorten it for the swingarm. What is the best type of chain breaker to get? Is the motion pro chain breaker any good? How hard is it to cut a link out and reattach the master link? I have never actually taken a link out of a chain. Will I need any other tools to do this besides the chain breaker? Thanks for you help!

Thanks. Yeah, it says its compatible with DOT 3 and 4. There is no mention of DOT 5 at all on the bottle, or any silicone content. Hopefully the brakes wont be too bad to bleed. I have done it before and do not look forward to it.